1963 SWC Restoration Update

[studiog]

Hi! Gary

I use a Devilbis HVLP spray gun for all heavy body materials and a conventional gun for the lacquer. I reduced the K-36 by the maximum recommended 20% and applied one extra coat to make up the build difference. The only problem I had was I mixed too large a quantity the first time and had to throw away about a pint. I mixed 20 onces after that and everything sprayed fine. The finish came out very smooth with no orange peal. I am very pleased with the results.
Ray

I think I may try the K-36 next time. I used Slik Sand by Evercoat on the 61 and I had a hard time controlling the texture. It has an extreme high build and thereby allot of solids. My first coat was very textured, much worse than just orange peel. On the subsequent coats I thinned it a bit more than recommended and it sprayed out much better but still not smooth. I'm glad it went well for you. I'm sure you will block sand that puppy to perfection. Good luck with the next phase.
Gary

 

[61 Silver]

Ray,
Looking good! It will be back on the road before you know it!

Regards, John McGraw

Thanks John,

The pictures provide me the opportunity to show the results of all your great advise on Corvette painting!

Thanks for all your help!
Ray

 

[61 Silver]

I can't wait til I see that lacquer laid down...when I repaint my 67, I'm definitely going lacquer,too.
If I get that 65 project, it's gotta be Goldwood Yellow lacquer. Where can you still get lacquer?

Your projet is looking REAL good.....can't wait for more pics.
Happy New Year, y'all...

Hi!

I am sorry I haven't gotten back to you in reference to purchasing lacquers. I am posting a URL for PPG, click on distributor and you should be able to find a distributor near you. Call and find out if they can still sell lacquer in your state.

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmfinddistribresult.asp

Hope this helps
Ray

 

[61 Silver]

Project Update!

1963 SWC; It's Ermine White!

Ray

 

[BarryK]

congrats Ray!!

she looks GREAT!

really looks good in the pics. are you happy with the way it came out close up and in person because that's what really counts.

hard to beat a great looking car, with fresh paint, fresh shiney motor and fresh shiney everything isn't it?

 

[Fuelie]

Ray,

That is great looking. Gheez, you sure work fast!

Makes me want to start a project........'scuse me, I have to go lay down until this passes

Take care,
Brian

 

[61 Silver]

Ray,

That is great looking. Gheez, you sure work fast!

Makes me want to start a project........'scuse me, I have to go lay down until this passes

Take care,
Brian

Hi! Brian

Still have tons of work to do so if you do get that "I would like to start a restoration feeling" you are welcome to come and help. Wet sanding and buffing will start in a few day and I am a little nervous about installing the windows and clips for the stainless. This is my first coupe.

Free room and board!

Thanks for the compliments!

Ray

 

[61 Silver]

congrats Ray!!

she looks GREAT!

really looks good in the pics. are you happy with the way it came out close up and in person because that's what really counts.

hard to beat a great looking car, with fresh paint, fresh shiney motor and fresh shiney everything isn't it?

Hi! Barry

Thanks for the compliments! I am very please at this time. I used a Devilbis HVLP gun with the lacquer for the first time and there was a short learning curve. I tried a Sharpe HVLP gun but got a run on the first panel and switch back to the Devilbis. Other than the one run everything went fine.

Lacquer will flow out over time with heat. I have the heat cranked up in the barn and it looks a little better every time I look at it. I hope to rub it out and buff it in a few days or after the lacquer cures and then we will know the quality of the paint job.

If you would like to learn how to rub out and buff a new paint job, your are welcome to stop up! Just kidding!!

Ray

 

[BarryK]

Ray, if I was closer I would, i'm always up to leaning how to do new things now that i've started doing my own work

 

[Fuelie]

Hi! Brian

Still have tons of work to do so if you do get that "I would like to start a restoration feeling" you are welcome to come and help. Wet sanding and buffing will start in a few day and I am a little nervous about installing the windows and clips for the stainless. This is my first coupe.

Free room and board!

Thanks for the compliments!

Ray

Hi Ray,

Thanks for the invitation it is very tempting. However life is currently keeping me hopping. Besides, I might start having too much fun and not want to leave

How long will you let the paint cure before you start to wet sand and buff it? I used to give all my lacquer jobs between 10 days and two weeks to "lay down" and let the solvent escape first.

I have always found buffing the paint to be very exciting as it seems to bring the body to life.

Take care,
Brian

 

[61 Silver]

Hi! Brian

I will most likely wait until Saturday and that will make it six days. I have keep the heat on in the barn to help force the solvents from the lacquer. A paint instructor that I know told me that when the paint looses it banana type smell (order) it is time to wet sand and buff. What grit paper do you use when you wet sand?


Ray

 

[Fuelie]

Ray,

My favorite snadpaper is 1500 wet, with lots of water. If you get a particularly "rough" area then 1200 works fine to smooth it out. I always use the paper wrapped around a rubber block to keep it smooth.

Have fun!
Brian