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1969 Ride Height--- Rear end question...

bbvette

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
16
Location
Louisiana/ Alabama
Corvette
1959, 1963, 1967, 1969
Hello all, I recently had everything redone in the rear on my '69. (New shocks, bushings, etc.) Well now, the rear sits higher then before. Is there any way to lower the rear back to stock height? Thanks in advance.
 
First give it a little time. My old 68 sat much higher after putting in a new spring, and eventually settled.

Also, you can lower the rear by tightening up the nuts on the outer ends of the spring; or by buying longer bolts and doing the same. It will draw the spring down. Never done it myself, but it makes sense. Have read many posts about it. Hope that helps!
 
First give it a little time. My old 68 sat much higher after putting in a new spring, and eventually settled.

Also, you can lower the rear by tightening up the nuts on the outer ends of the spring; or by buying longer bolts and doing the same. It will draw the spring down. Never done it myself, but it makes sense. Have read many posts about it. Hope that helps!

Actually, you will need to loosen the nut to lower the rear. They also sell longer bolts if you want to get it really low.

Here's a good link I saved on the subject.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1927664&highlight=ride+height
 
If the spring wasn't changed and it sits high, they probably tightened all the bushing through-bolts with the car up in the air with the suspension hanging free; those bolts aren't supposed to be torqued until the car is on wheels with the suspension at normal ride height. If that's what they did, the life of all the affected bushings will be shortened dramatically.

:beer
 
Thanks for the information, I'm going check into it and see what I can do. I'm amazed how much info is available from here. Thanks again :)
 
1969 ride height adjustment

If the spring wasn't changed and it sits high, they probably tightened all the bushing through-bolts with the car up in the air with the suspension hanging free; those bolts aren't supposed to be torqued until the car is on wheels with the suspension at normal ride height. If that's what they did, the life of all the affected bushings will be shortened dramatically.

:beer

As i am currently replacing rear trailing arms and half shafts and spindle carriers this is very good information, can you clairify what you mean by "bushings through bolts". My car is in the air and I am about ready to totque everything up.

Regards,
Mike
 
John is correct,check the load on the bolts, loosen them with the car on the ground or on a level lift and retorque. If you used a new spring then this is probably your problem. I have yet to find an aftermarket spring that I can use the 6.25 botls with. I endup with the 8" bolts and the nuts are right at the end. I have never had them settle yet, 5 years and 15-20k miles on one so far and nothing. Glass springs have/had the same problem. I don't use them myself.
Good luck, check the bolts and add the 8" and see.
 
John is correct,check the load on the bolts, loosen them with the car on the ground or on a level lift and retorque. If you used a new spring then this is probably your problem. I have yet to find an aftermarket spring that I can use the 6.25 botls with. I endup with the 8" bolts and the nuts are right at the end. I have never had them settle yet, 5 years and 15-20k miles on one so far and nothing. Glass springs have/had the same problem. I don't use them myself.
Good luck, check the bolts and add the 8" and see.


Thanks for the info, this helps a lot.
 
how do i add a picture of my car to my name / profile..?
 
I just put new shocks and a new spring in the rear end of my '71, and it's definitely higher. I was told that in time it would settle 1/4 - 1/2" lower.
 
I am currently using a 360lb mono spring with Bilstien shocks in the rear. Is still up in the air but I should have it back on the ground this weekend. Any information on how to adjust the camber rods...? is this a alignment shop thing...?


Thanks for the reply.
 
...Any information on how to adjust the camber rods...? is this a alignment shop thing...?...

What are you wanting to do? Careful here. A little Do-It-Yourself tinkering with rear camber settings and you will run into handling problems and excessive tire wear. Rear camber is set with the eccentrics beneath the differential. Loosen the nut on the camber bolt a little; no need to remove the nut. Turn the camber bolt to reset the camber; tighten the nut while making sure the bolt does not turn from where you've set it.

Personally, I only set rear camber to eyeball scale just long enough to get me down the street to the alignment shop. Leave the actual fine tuning to the pros in the shop.

:)
 

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