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1981 Horns

ladams

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
105
Location
Brampton, Ontario
Corvette
1981 White
I have finally located my horns and I have a few of questions for you more experienced owners:
1. My horns are mounted on the upper front areas of the wheel wells (1 on each side), not in the nose as the books say. Was this an optional location?
2. How do I get to them?
3. When I press the horn button the relay clicks (I also had it checked). Does this mean that the problem lies somewhere between the relay and the horns?

Thanks in advance.
 
I'd start by checking the contacts/plugs ;)

If the relay is good, then it very well could be cleaning the contact surface they may work, just unplugging them and replugging them in a few times might get them working.. ;shrug

Bud
 
I'd start by checking the contacts/plugs ;)

If the relay is good, then it very well could be cleaning the contact surface they may work, just unplugging them and replugging them in a few times might get them working.. ;shrug

Bud
Thanks,
Do you know of an easy way to reach them?
 
Relay / Switch Trouble Shooting Hint

Thanks,
Do you know of an easy way to reach them?

A tried and true method of checking a relay or switch contacts (without actually seeing the contacts) will carry enough current to operate a electrical component like horns, etc, is:
Step 1, Disconnect the electrical plug at the horn(s). Step 2, using a test lamp (a 12 V lamp with two wires soldered to the lamp, one on the center contact and the second to the base of the lamp). Step 3, with the relay activated (helper pressing the steering whell center) and the test light connected between the hot cable terminal and the car frame / ground point. Step 4, a brightly lit lamp indicates a good contact / current path through the relay contacts & through the wiring up to the horn. Step 5, The horn is now suspect, check horn mounting to frame is free of rust. Step 6, If horn mounting is good, check the horn electrically with a ohm meter for continuity, horn resistance should be quite low, a few ohms reading is typicallly a good reading. Step 7, If all test results seem correct, but still a weak or no horn operation may mean that there is a poor connection inside the horn assembly, try connecting a different, but compatable horn. Step 8, If all tests are negative (no lit lamp), disconnect wiire #28 at the horn relay, using a test lead or jumper wire; short that contact on the relay to a frame ground, if the horn(s) sounds then the problem lays with either the horn switch or in the wiring from the switch to the relay.

ps: My shop manual only shows both horns mounted up front near the head lights.

I hope the above make sense and help in locating the problem.

:upthumbs
 
As stated the grounds might very well be bad on the horns. Easiest (not easy) way to get to them is from underneith, you might be able to get to them better by removing the side marker lights. Use a brake light bulb with a couple wires on it to check for voltage at the horn connectors, that will verify everything except the horn
 
Thanks

Thanks for the help everyone. From the sounds of it, I will wait another month or so till I put the car away for the winter and then tackle the horn problem and some other stuff then.
 
Couldn't wait...

Okay, I got too impatient to wait for down-time and decided to replace the horns now.
It was without a doubt the most aggrevating job I have ever done on a vehicle! I managed, with help, to replace the passenger side horn and will quit at that. It seems that there is no "easy way".:mad:W
Anyway, I have a horn now.
 
You need a least 2 elbows on the same arm!!!!!!:ugh
 

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