Question: 1988 Project car - engine knock and paint touchup

[CGM's1988vette]

I just purchased my first project vette 1988 red coupe and extremely excited to get started. The project has three main repairs:
1st – engine knock: sound like lower connecting rod bearing. Any advice or references on pulling the engine? I ‘m hoping to regrind the crank, new bearings, and possibly rework a connecting rod (source of knock). I saw some forums back in 2002 discussing how to lift the vette, any new updates:
- Back lift point at differential with special tool (no time to purchase tool so I will wing it)
- Front lift point at center cross beam
- Block car in air behind front wheels and in front of rear wheels
2nd – paint fade; the car sat outside a lot so the hoods have terrible paint fade with possible white oxidizing deposits coming through the red paint? While the car is wet, you cannot see the white stuff. Looks like someone may have sanded off the clear coat trying to fix it. I’m planning a full repaint possible next year, but for this summer I would like to make the car somewhat respectful as I drive it. Any magical products out there?
3rd – Leather seats with rips. As the car sat outside, the seat’s leather appear to be someone hard with cracks. Can I purchase a factory type of seat cover?
Look forward to any advice.

 

[Schrade]

Flywheel damage can sound like crank/connector rod problems. You won't DEFINITELY be able to rule it out, but you'll know a little more.

Before pulling the engine, get a compression gauge. Check the squeeze (static) in all 8 holes. Spin the damper to 0', and measure bleed-down time. I'm not sure what size the bolt is on the damper tho'...

 

[CGM's1988vette]

Thanks for the info, my buddy is coming over with his gages. Also, I never commented about the oil pressure. When first start-up the engine, at idle the oil presure is in the high 40's to 50 psi then as the engine reached operating temp the oil presure drops down to low teens at idle. If I rev the engine the oil presure comes back up. I'm thinking that oil is bleeding through the enlarged lower bearing gap? I'm going to change the oil today to confirm that there is no werd oil thing going on and also I will check the flywheel bolts.

The manual said you can drop the oil pan and change bearings from the underside of the car? If the car is sitting on jack stands, I would think that may be a tough? Any thoughts?

If I need to pull the engine, do you recommend pulling the manual transmision together or can you seperate while under the car? I'm a big guy and will be a tight fit under the car on jacks.

 

[Schrade]

Thanks for the info, my buddy is coming over with his gages. Also, I never commented about the oil pressure. When first start-up the engine, at idle the oil presure is in the high 40's to 50 psi then as the engine reached operating temp the oil presure drops down to low teens at idle. If I rev the engine the oil presure comes back up. I'm thinking that oil is bleeding through the enlarged lower bearing gap? I'm going to change the oil today to confirm that there is no werd oil thing going on and also I will check the flywheel bolts.

The manual said you can drop the oil pan and change bearings from the underside of the car? If the car is sitting on jack stands, I would think that may be a tough? Any thoughts?

If I need to pull the engine, do you recommend pulling the manual transmision together or can you seperate while under the car? I'm a big guy and will be a tight fit under the car on jacks.

Haynes and Chiltons says you can change the bearings while the motor is in the car. I think it can, but it won't be easy. You're gonna' have to work CAREFULLY to not nick bearings' surfaces.

Get rid of Haynes and Chiltons. They should have a round hollow binder, so you could hang it in the library, tear a page, read, wipe, flush, repeat :L (and 'crinkle', if you're the sensitive type)

 

[CGM's1988vette]

I agree so I purchased a GM service manual and GM said you also can change bearings from under the car. But after reviewing everthing, I want to ensure I do the best job so I'm currently pulling the engine.

Do you have any comments if I need to remove the manual trans for clearance to get the engine out? Looks like you can only slide the engine forward 6" before hitting the front cross member.