Question: 1996 A/C High Pressure Service Port/Valve - How to Service?

[trhao]

1996 A/C High Pressure Service Port/Valve - How to Service?

I have a 1996 Corvette (P-Code LT1) with the original R134a system. A/C recently stopped working due to low refrigerant pressure. I've since traced the leak to the high side service port where there was a lot of oil residue.

Inside the port all I see is an odd black rubber ball. The ball can be depressed to open the line and appears to work fine w/ service hose connected. However I do NOT see a removable shrader valve down there. The port assembly is apparently soldered to an aluminum line. (There is a traditional shrader valve on the low side port, too deeply depressed for my old shrader tool to reach.)

Question: How do I service this leaking valve? Is there a regular shrader valve threaded in below this rubber 'doohicky'? Or do I have to solder a replacement high side port to the line? Manual says it can be removed w/ special tool J-39037 which appears to be nothing more than a socket...? And again I've looked carefully at it and it appears soldered on.

Thanks!


PS: Since I'll likely be cracking open the A/C system I might also replace the OE accumulator. Is there anything else I should take care of while I have the system open?

 

[toptechx6]

1996 A/C High Pressure Service Port/Valve - How to Service?

I have a 1996 Corvette (P-Code LT1) with the original R134a system. A/C recently stopped working due to low refrigerant pressure. I've since traced the leak to the high side service port where there was a lot of oil residue.

Inside the port all I see is an odd black rubber ball. The ball can be depressed to open the line and appears to work fine w/ service hose connected. However I do NOT see a removable shrader valve down there. The port assembly is apparently soldered to an aluminum line. (There is a traditional shrader valve on the low side port, too deeply depressed for my old shrader tool to reach.)

Question: How do I service this leaking valve? Is there a regular shrader valve threaded in below this rubber 'doohicky'? Or do I have to solder a replacement high side port to the line? Manual says it can be removed w/ special tool J-39037 which appears to be nothing more than a socket...? And again I've looked carefully at it and it appears soldered on.

Thanks!


PS: Since I'll likely be cracking open the A/C system I might also replace the OE accumulator. Is there anything else I should take care of while I have the system open?

The high pressure line, PN 10219091 is still available from a dealer or online supplier such as GM Parts Direct or GM Parts House GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts

 

[boomdriver]

1996 A/C High Pressure Service Port/Valve - How to Service?

I have a 1996 Corvette (P-Code LT1) with the original R134a system. A/C recently stopped working due to low refrigerant pressure. I've since traced the leak to the high side service port where there was a lot of oil residue.

Inside the port all I see is an odd black rubber ball. The ball can be depressed to open the line and appears to work fine w/ service hose connected. However I do NOT see a removable shrader valve down there. The port assembly is apparently soldered to an aluminum line. (There is a traditional shrader valve on the low side port, too deeply depressed for my old shrader tool to reach.)

Question: How do I service this leaking valve? Is there a regular shrader valve threaded in below this rubber 'doohicky'? Or do I have to solder a replacement high side port to the line? Manual says it can be removed w/ special tool J-39037 which appears to be nothing more than a socket...? And again I've looked carefully at it and it appears soldered on.

Thanks!


PS: Since I'll likely be cracking open the A/C system I might also replace the OE accumulator. Is there anything else I should take care of while I have the system open?

If you want to do it right....orifice tube, O-rings.

 

[LT4man]

You can remove the fitting with the special tool.

I did this on mine.

The new fitting is AC Delco.

SAVE the WAVE!

 

[trhao]

Thanks for the responses - I was curious if the oe tube w/ fitting might be available - good to know!

The orifice tube is a good suggestion - I've heard this is one to always service when cracking things open.

On the 'special tool' - I assume this is just a longer version of the shrader tool to reach deeper into the recessed high side port? So there IS a shrader valve under that funny rubber 'ball'? And I just push past it to reach the shrader underneath?

I'm guessing this tool is readily available at auto parts stores?

thanks again

 

[gmjunkie]

On the 'special tool' - I assume this is just a longer version of the shrader tool to reach deeper into the recessed high side port? So there IS a shrader valve under that funny rubber 'ball'? And I just push past it to reach the shrader underneath?

I'm guessing this tool is readily available at auto parts stores?

thanks again

The tool is a special socket to fit the valve,you unscrew the Port out of the line and replace it!~!! Righty Tighty,Lefty Loosey!~!! Definitely not rocket science!~!!

 

[trhao]

The tool is a special socket to fit the valve,you unscrew the Port out of the line and replace it!~!! Righty Tighty,Lefty Loosey!~!! Definitely not rocket science!~!!

I've double checked mine and, as stated earlier, it's definitely WELDED into the line and looks a little different than the one shown above. Mine has a standard six sided hex fitting and the bead comes up around/over the hex sides. Lefty loosey on a welding fitting? I wouldn't exactly call that rocket science either.

 

[Curious George]

I've double checked mine and, as stated earlier, it's definitely WELDED into the line and looks a little different than the one shown above. Mine has a standard six sided hex fitting and the bead comes up around/over the hex sides. Lefty loosey on a welding fitting? I wouldn't exactly call that rocket science either.

I have replaced three of these fittings and none of them were welded on. It does not make sense to replace the entire high pressure line assembly just for a leaky fitting/valve.

Look at it closer.

 

[WRECKER88]

Well now it is time to post a photo of the part you want to replace

 

[gmjunkie]

I've double checked mine and, as stated earlier, it's definitely WELDED into the line and looks a little different than the one shown above. Mine has a standard six sided hex fitting and the bead comes up around/over the hex sides. Lefty loosey on a welding fitting? I wouldn't exactly call that rocket science either.

Does the fitting look like this???
:confused

 

[trhao]

Going from memory I think the bottom part does. But the top seems different. I'll have to check. (Maybe a previous owner serviced/modified it) Why do you ask?

May not have an issue even though it is leaking. My understanding now is that on R134a systems, the caps are considered the 'primary' seal, not the valves. I had always thought of the caps as little more than dust covers. Anyway, I've oiled the seal and snugged the cap down... we'll see. I probably should get new caps too though.

 

[gmjunkie]

Going from memory I think the bottom part does. But the top seems different. I'll have to check. (Maybe a previous owner serviced/modified it) Why do you ask?

May not have an issue even though it is leaking. My understanding now is that on R134a systems, the caps are considered the 'primary' seal, not the valves. I had always thought of the caps as little more than dust covers. Anyway, I've oiled the seal and snugged the cap down... we'll see. I probably should get new caps too though.

If the valve is leaking,It needs replaced!~!!!
The plastic cap is only to keep foreign deb're out of the valve!~!!