#2 and 3 Mount Questions

[rgtrough]

Hey guys, After almost 4 years I put the body back on the frame of my '74 coupe. All of the #2 and 3 mount had disentegrated on removal. Plus the replacement poly mounts from VBP don't look a thing like the assembly manual. Do I put the conical half in the body? One half has a lip and seems harder does that go on the frame? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Rubber was chosen to help isolate vibration being transmitted from the frame to the body. Using poly (in this and many other locations) is a step backwards.

 

[rgtrough]

Not quite the help I was looking for.

 

[Evolution1980]

I know what Mikey was getting at. It's pretty clear, actually. But I agree, it's a an answer to a question you didn't ask.

Mikey, personal preferences aside, possible you can answer rgtrough's question?

rg, have you tried doing a forum search? It's been a while, but I seem to recall similar conversation/questions about body mounts some time ago and I believe your same question was asked.
I'd also suggest simply contacting VB&P. They should easily be able to answer your question as post-sales support & follow-up.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

No, I'm afraid I can't as I've never seen body mounts where one half is conical in shape. The repop rubber and poly mounts I'm aware of look virtually identical to OEM stuff. The poly mounts are hard as a rock and transmit road vibration accordingly.

I'd also wonder what other differences there are from the original stuff and recall a restored '75 that ran around here locally with a body that was clearly 1/2" to 3/4" higher off the frame than original.

 

[rgtrough]

Hey Evo, thanks for the try. I did a forum search before posting but didn't find anything. I admit I didn't read them all. I'll call VBP in the morning. They will have the answer.
Mikey, there is a reason that cars come in different colors. Not everyone does things the same way. I've been a member of this forum for a number of years and have been helped many times by its members. I don't want a OEM car. I am building a street driven rocket not a 200 hp cruiser. You don't have to respond to all posts. They'll more than likey let you be a moderator if you ask.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

No need to be nasty.............

I wish someone had cautioned me about using poly everywhere on a car back when I did mine but there was no internet discussion boards at the time. I regret about 95% of what I did, especially the body mounts and trailing arm bushings.

Oh- and by the way I don't have a 200hp cruiser either.

Good luck.

 

[Toms007]

Mikey, being a C3 dummy, I need to ask....are the rubber mounts still available? In all the catalogs I see, Poly bushings are the only thing available. Now, I am tempering this with this statement...I don't actually look in the C3 stuff that closely, that's why I call myself a C3 dummy.

 

[JohnZ]

Mikey, being a C3 dummy, I need to ask....are the rubber mounts still available?

Yes, they are, and they always have been. You just have to work your way past the hype for the poly mounts that says they're "better".

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Mikey, being a C3 dummy, I need to ask....are the rubber mounts still available? In all the catalogs I see, Poly bushings are the only thing available. Now, I am tempering this with this statement...I don't actually look in the C3 stuff that closely, that's why I call myself a C3 dummy.

There's no dummies or dumb questions as far as I'm concerned.

Here's a complete set from a popular vendor, but as John says, they all carry them

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~ShowPicTxt~Z5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z5AAIMJ~Z5Z5Z51

This is why I couldn't answer the OPs question about the 'conical' mount. All the ones I've seen look like this, including the poly stuff.

Not to belabour the issue, but whether a car has 200hp or 1,000hp isolating vibration at no expense to performance or handling is a no brainer to me.

 

[Toms007]

Thank you for clearing that up, Mikey and John. That being said, RG has a question, obviously has poly bushings, and hopefully can get his answers from VB&P.

RG when you find out please post here so we can all learn.

 

[6880 Mike]

You have aftermarket mounts. Call VBP and ask how they install. I'm surprised they did not come with an instruction sheet.

 

[rgtrough]

Hey 6880, I was mistaken I got these mounts from Eklers. I found the shipping sheet. I got the answer from a local restoration guy here in town. What he didn't have is the min. distance between the frame and body. Any ideas?

 

[6880 Mike]

...Any ideas?...

Nope. What are they calling "minimum distance between frame and body"?

 

[rgtrough]

My guy said a min distance needs to be maintained between the frame and the body so different components work and fit properly (i.e. getting to top bellhousing bolts, shifting properly on manuals). He said to measure at the #4 mount area. It is suppose to be published somewhere. I have the assembly manual and the service manual and a freind has a Fisher body manual for '74s. Or like usual I'll end up guessing and reguessing.

Thanks

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

He might mean body shimming to get the door openings correct.

 

[6880 Mike]

He might mean body shimming to get the door openings correct.

I agree with Mikey. I would start with the shim stack which was originally on the #4 mount and work from there. You may need to add/remove shims as you go.

 

[rgtrough]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. We discussed shimming and the need to get the door gaps uniform. He definetly was specific about maintaining a min clearance between the frame and the body for the afore mentioned reasons. He said he always has to look it up when he does a body mount replacement. I'll post it when I find it.

 

[SIXFOOTER]

I never ran up on a spec that gave a minimum, so when I did mine I started out setting the body6 right on the mounts. This was after replacing the #2 mounts and rocker channels. I then shimmed the #1 and #4 positions to get the door gaps as close as I could. The body sat flat on the #2 and #3 mounts with no aparent gap. I put the conical part of my mount on top, under the bolt head.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I think the C2s need to worry about insufficient frame to body clearance, but not the C3s.