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2pc Rear Main Seal Recomendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mikey1
  • Start date Start date
M

Mikey1

Guest
I have a problem that many people know about....I fell that the "mark of excellence" is just getting a bit too large by now.

Since i still have to replace the oil pan gasket...which i will do in some 2 weeks time and add the 6qt oilpan I thought it would be a good idea to replace the rear main seal.

I thought there might be some replacement out there that helps getting the leaky stuff inside....something like a heavy duty version with two lips instead of one....

...I have found versions for align honed situations....but am not sure if this is an alternative if no work has been done and the crank is just a little worn (don't know the correct expression....) but not yet on the level to be machined.

I am very interested in any experiences...

...engine is stock 327/365HP
 
I have always used the Fel Pro two part rear main seal. I install it with the seal ends offset from the parting line on the rear main cap and the block by approximately 1/8" to 1/4". I also use a light coat of sealant on the rear main cap mating surface but not on the seal ends, (copper coat spray on gasket cement works best). Some people will argue that you shouldn't do this but I have applied the light coat of sealant on the cap mating surface for years and never had a problem. The most important point in replacing the rear seal is to pay attention which way the lip faces. Replace it with the lip facing the same direction as the one you removed.



Just a reminder, don't go cheap with the pan gasket and use a good silicone sealant on the corners where the rail gskts meet the rubber front and rear pan gskt. Make sure everything is clean and oil free before you re-install. I have read/heard about a one piece pan gskt but don't know if this is availalbe for your engine. That would be the hot ticket if it can be found. Take your time and good luck.

Randy:w
 
Yep...there is a one piece rubber gasket and I will use it.
 
When I worked at the dealer I installed hundreds.

My best tips:

1) make sure crank is not worn, grease seal prior ro install.
2) offset seal so it is not aligned with split in cap
3) apply a small amount of loctite red anearobic (sp) sealer from the seal out to the edge of the mating surface.
4) The old time mechanics trick to keep leakage to a minimum is to plastigage the bearing and use a .001 oversize bearing if clearances allow (they usually do). This keeps spray/leakage to a minimum.
5) Just a small amount of black rtv at the corners at the corbers of the gaskets.
6) do not over tighten gasket.

John
Milwaukee
 
I used a Mr Gasket (silicone) two piece a couple years ago. I bought it at my local speed shop...not a single problem.

http://www.mrgasket.com/
 

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