'69 BB Raditor Replacement

[Skyguy007]

I just discovered that the radiator in my '69 (with a 390 hp 427 & TH400) has a leak in the lower driver's side. I have removed the fan and clutch and I know the fan clutch has to be stored vertically to keep the silicone from leaking. The top of the thermoplastic fan cowling wraps over the top of the raditor, so it looks like the cowling has to come out before the raditor supports and raditor can be removed. I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. Also, the 69 Chevy shop and service manuals have nothing about Vette raditor service or replacement. Does anyone know of a good description on how to do this?

 

[sscam69]

I don't know about earlier vettes but for my 79 I had to unbolt the shroud and move it back and then remove the radaitor first then the shroud.

Get someone to help you, It will make the job easier. I am sure you can take it to a radiator shop and they will repair if for you with no problems. Just have it flushed out while your at it.

Frank

 

[ChuckG]

Others may disagree, but here's what you need to do. First of all, I think in the long run, it's easier to take off the hood. Then, remove the shroud-radiator-core support as a unit. That way, you've got the whole assembly out, and can repair-restore other areas. You can also replace the foam seals,etc.

You might be able to remove the bolts under the front fenders which hold the core support. Loosen the 2 bolts under the support. Then you can pull it forward. You then might be able to get the radiator along with the shroud out. The problem areas are the front upper A frame bushings. The shroud won't come out unless you move things forward. The radiator won't come out by itself because of the lower radiator hose nipple. Chuck

 

[Skyguy007]

Thanks for the advice. I've resigned myself to removing the hood, since that what everybody says to do first. I hadn't thought about removing the entire assembly as a unit as you suggested, but it makes a lot of sense.

I'm not sure where Fallston is, but you're welcome to come to Germantown to watch me pull, tug and curse this thing out.

The engine has been running hot, so my plan is to put in a new aluminum '69 BB racing radiator replica painted black, but to also keep the old radiator for the next owner. If I have the extra cash someday I might even recore the old one just to keep. I think the old one will be worth more to the next owner of this car than the $50.00 the radiator company offered me.

 

[ChuckG]

Fallston is in BEAUTIFUL Harford County, north of Baltimore. It's near Bel Air. Germantown is near "the District" as I recall. Don't think I've ever been there.

It really is easier IMHO to take the entire thing out...core support, radiator, and shroud. Makes life a LOT easier. You'll also need to take off the fan and fan clutch too. You can then reassemble the whole thing on the floor, with the radiator as the "meat in the sandwich" between the shroud and support. It comes out and goes in real easily that way. It's tough to try to fight the shroud up and out over the upper A frames. Chuck

 

[Skyguy007]

I already removed the fan and clutch, then read somewhere that it wasn't really necessary (even though I think it is). The book I read said to unfasten the shroud, pull it back and rest it on the attached fan.

I'll probably try your way first. I have a couple of strong sons who can help me lift out the whole assembly at once. This will also facilitate fitting the new radiator properly with the various rubber pieces before getting it on the car.

Thanks again. BTW Germantown's in Montgomery County north of Gaithersburg off of I-270. It's not the end of the earth, but you can see it from here!

 

[Skyguy007]

'69 BB Radiator

I got a new aluminum radiator (painted black) from DeWitts in Brighton, MI and the '69 is up and running again. The advice about removing the shroud, radiator and bracket as a unit was very sound. The toughest part was getting the lower radiator and trans. hoses off (I had to cut the radiator hose, but that's no big deal.) I got new foam seals and a shroud extension from Dr. Rebuild, 2 cans of chassis black and from Paragon and, after some wire brushing and some gray primer then paint, everything looks great. The only glitches were that I forgot to reattach the ignition ground (it's funny now, but I couldn't understand why the engine wouldn't fire) and also forgot to tighten the hose clamps on the lower trans. cooler line, leaving about a quart on my garage floor, my driveway, and the street next to my house. I also cleaned and re-used some of the old foam pieces that were in good shape. Once I got everything fastened together, the test drive indicates about 180 degrees with a new 180 thermostat. I can't wait to drive it on a hot Maryland day next summer! Thanks to Chuck G. for the good suggestions. Radio removal and repair is the next project.