71 T-Top Rollbar install

[TZ Racer]

69MyWay said that someone had inquired about putting rollbars in a T-top.

I'll post a few pics of mine. It is built to SCCA road racing specs. More pics of my rebuild (in progress) are on http://www.tropiczoneracing.com/Street-Vette.htm

This first one is a shot from the front before paint.

 

[TZ Racer]

Okay, we'll try this again!

Here is a 3/4 view.

This is a close up of where the bar welds into the frame.

This is a close up of where the bar goes through the body.

 

[69MyWay]

I sure would like to see a pic of those schweeeeet Corbeau A4 seats sitting down in that bad rat machine.

Looking good!

 

[Bullitt]

What diameter is the roll bar stock, the thickness and what grade of steel? Have you considered triangulating the frame?

--Bullitt

 

[Black Thunder]

TZ
Now this is what I have seen going way back. May not be a stylish as Chris has but know they will work, God forbid they are ever needed.
Nice to see some pics of the car being worked on

 

[Hijinx]

TZ,
Make me a set! I assume that they go through and are bolted to the frame? Looks like a job. How are you planning to keep the glass from cracking around the post? Seems like with natural flex this might be a problem. Course, I could be totally missing the boat. I like the look! I liked Chris' too, but could not afford to have his guy make them. Dont get me wrong, Chris, he did a great job and they are well worth what he was asking.

 

[TZ Racer]

What diameter is the roll bar stock, the thickness and what grade of steel? Have you

It is 1-3/4" OD x .095 wall mild steel. Since the birdcage is new and bolted solidly to the frame, we attached the bar at the side of the birdcage to get some triangulation for the frame kick-up area. The wife said door bars are out. It's supposed to be a street car.

The rollbar is not a kit. It was custom fit into the car. The rear window is still removable...barely! The rollbar and rear braces are welded to the frame. Yes the fiberglass might crack, but it will be hidden under the carpet.

We also tied the seat brackets and seatbelt mounts to the frame along with a driveshaft hoop. Shoulder harness mounts can be seen on the hoop assembly.

PS. The frame seams and reinforcing plates were welded according to the old Chevy Power Book specs for Corvette race preparation.

I'm not sure I drilled enough holes in my bumper mounts and brackets to make up for the added weight. Oh, well...as my wife says...it's supposed to be a street car!

 

[Bullitt]

I think another alternative would be to use some type of huge rubber grommet or rubber boot to seal the passage through the fiberglass. Of course, noise would go up.

Another form of triangulation that I was thinking of was bridging the 90 degree angles of the ladder frame where the form a T. Maybe with a triangle plate or oval tubing.

Can you let me know of a place to buy the Chevy Power Book? I need to get an idea of how they strengthened the frame and apply the practical ideas, as you said, for the street. Thanks for the information, Dave.

--Bullitt

 

[TZ Racer]

Bullitt

I'm not sure exactly where you mean to plate or triangulate the ladder frame, but any plating or reinforcement is good because the frame is very flexible.

The Chevy Power book is an old one, out of print, but perhaps I can copy the pages dealing with the Corvette and I also have an old Vette Power magazine that has a lot of preparation tips. If you send me a fax or address, I'll see what I can do.

dsbach@bellsouth.net

My hard drive is dying as I type so it may be a little while.

Dave