86 cluster problems !! help!!

[yacc44]

just got my 86 vette... been reading alot of posts about bad clusters.. but have not come accross this one... my cluster lights up.... but you cannot see any readings... no digital #'s.. from reading other posts , it seems to be also a bad lcd,, since you can see the cluster when ignition is not on,, from what i understand it is supposed to look black screen... my question is... would these bad lcd cause me to not see the digital readout even though it lights up when ignition is on.... thanks for any help here

 

[86PACER]

http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/index.shtml

 

[geekinavette]

Is is just too dim to read?

 

[John Robinson]

I don't have any experience with your cluster problem but wanted to welcome you to the I am sure someone will be along that knows something about your question.

 

[speedmaster4]

ultimate solution

firebird analog gauges...plug-in, no mods to vette harness...no sensor changes, don't even need to open the hood...hi/lo selector switch gives 300 mph top speed in ''hi'' position, 140 mph max readout in ''lo'' for more resolution in restricted speed zones.

apologies for my knees and reflections from the cluster lexan face...knees will never look any better but cluster face relections will decrease with age.

 

[yacc44]

the lights are bright when ignition is on... just no readings... but you can also see gauges when ignition is off.... what year does that firebird dash have to be to fit in vette? that would be a great solution... does it bolt right in?

 

[speedmaster4]

what year does that firebird dash have to be to fit in vette? that would be a great solution... does it bolt right in?

87-91 bird clusters will work...87-89 are preferred because the ''newer'' 90-91 tachs are less accurate and die young...camos of the same vintage should also work IF electronic speedo cluster (mech cable drive speedos will not work)...need cluster from a v8 car to have tach readout correct...speedos come in many top mph indicating types, with ''range doubler'' selector switch mod even an 85 mph speedo switches to 170 mph capable (just add numbers to speedo face)...would be possible to bolt in the whole (wider than vette) bird cluster if minor surgery was performed on vette center dash trim (loose 1/2 of the upper a/c outlets), i preferred to ''chop and channel'' the bird cluster to fit the vette openning and keep all the gauges in front of the steering wheel (bird drivers must avert eyes to far right to see engine info)...bird gauges are mounted in bird cluster housing with screws/ mounting screws are also the electrical connections/ printed circuit that comes on the bird cluster identifies all connects ( ''I'' is 12v, ''E'' is ground, signal from sensors is variously labelled otherwise but only one left and obvious)...you need to make a patch cord (only abt 14 wires are used) from the bird cluster to a 32 pin connector to plug into the vette harness ( ''new'' connector can be ripped from numerous GM ecm donors at j-y supply)...if you need to keep ''kill me'' (cruise control) operational, the bird/ camo separate cruise module would be req'd (i eliminated cruise for safety and clean-up underhood)

rear view of stock bird cluster with printed circuit (above) and my ''chopped'' gauge housing (below) prior to addition of ''spaghetti'' wiring...actually this is my latest ''design'', with bird gauges pulled tighter together as necessitated by smaller diameter steering wheel shown in previous post...speedo shown is 120 mph top speed with ''doubler'' readings in red/white to 240 mph...completed ''modified'' bird cluster bolts/plugs into vette with NO mods to vette, will take abt 1/2 hour to do switch (will actually time study when i change from cluster shown above to latest design) after learning curve, prolly 4 hours if virgin.

 

[tdr1919]

If you read the ink that 86pacer gave you, you can attemp to give your cluster boards a once over. I was able to repair mine with just a soldering iron.
The cluster boards are notorious for bad solder and if your are patient, have god quality rosin core solder, reflow all the connections. I advise not to take apart the LCD elements at this time. Make sure you use a magifying glass and look over the boards for obvious cracks on the PCB traces, or broken legs on the components.
Sometimes it is just oxidation on the connectors causing a bad ground. Get contact cleaner from radio Shack and spray it into the connectors.
Worse case it might be a bad power supply powering the LCD's
I was fortunate, I soldered every connection, cleaned all the contacts and it is working fine.

- Tom

 

[sriat]

Not sure if I understand

You say it "Lights Up"

What lights up when ignition is on? Can you read any of the LCD's
Are your blinker lights on bright? (The indicator Lights)

Does the unit come on and off driving?