'90 Airbag Light On

[Wegone]

I had the same issue with my 90, went thru all the steps listed. Tried for days to get the code (26) to clear finely I gave up and removed the bulb.

 

[purenrg]

P.s. The connector that I cleaned was the yellow connector under the steering cloumn (under the kick plate) [/B]

J37,

The connector you cleaned is for the sensor on the drivers side (left side) of the car on the right side the connector is on the fire wall about in the middle of the compartment. Up high

J37,Wegone

I had problems resetting the codes at first as well, so I took another look and found a (white electrical connecter on top of the kick plate (I do not know if this is the real name) on the right side (it is the plate that has the light in it under the glove box) anyway I pulled this off so I could have a better look. I found a (white connector) and a piece of yellow type caution tape on it ( the tape said something like Caution, for S.I.R. system install last and remove tape (lucky for me someone on the assembly line could not read). I do not remember verbatim? Well I disconnected this and cleaned it (did not look corroded) made sure everything was getting good contact. Hooked the battery back up, and the system reset the first time.

If you guys think it would help, I will pull it apart and post a photo. Just let me know!

 

[ringleader]

Infl. Rest.

I checked and the Infl Rest code removal tool is available at Mid America. Part #601-106 for $21.99. I ordered one and will post when I get it and if it works.

 

[purenrg]

ringleader,

You do not need the tool... Save your money!

 

[Wegone]

purenrg...

Thanks I'll give it a try....


Steve

 

[purenrg]

Let me know if I can help with any other info!

 

[Galen]

SIR

Jeffvette has a very good and acurate site if you follow it you should fix the problem. I have cleaned my sensors twice now and finally got the light to go out. Actually the whole problem is a ground issue the derm compares the ground wire in the sensor to the body ground. The 2 grounds on the frame 1 to the batt and the other to the motor are actually where I found my problem so make sure you clean and apply a generous ammount of dielectric grease. I also found that the power tap post behind the batt. was not tight and also corroded so clean and grease that as well. I also found that dirt had built up in my hood latch assembly and it was not draining so check that often as well a little compressed air and it was draining again. Again Jeffs procedure is very accurate the passenger side is the rough one no room to even get near it so do not start that side if you are in a hurry. Patience is a must very tight spot.

Galen

 

[ringleader]

Galen thanks for the info, I haven't had the time to do the fix so I have been resetting the code every 4 days, that's about how long it lasts.

 

[J37]

Well, finally got around to cleaning both sides sensors and the grounds under the battery box. The codes clear for about ten seconds, and back on!. It flashes a code 12 when I turn the ign on, and then while trying to clear them, I get a 36?? Any ideas from here, or just pull the bulbs! Thanks;
Jerry

 

[alka1967]

I had the same issue with my 90, went thru all the steps listed. Tried for days to get the code (26) to clear finely I gave up and removed the bulb.

I just bought a "90 with this problem. I assume if the bulb is removed, the airbag will still work in a crash? Am I correct?

Thanks,
Al

 

[Jeffvette]

Al, I have not heard a definite answer if the bag will deploy or not. You should definately pull the codes to figure out where the problem is.

 

[alka1967]

Al, I have not heard a definite answer if the bag will deploy or not. You should definately pull the codes to figure out where the problem is.

Thanks for the quick reply. I plan to pull the codes and try to fix the problem. I'll keep you posted.
Al

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

I just bought a "90 with this problem. I assume if the bulb is removed, the airbag will still work in a crash? Am I correct?

Thanks,
Al

Al,
Sorry, but you are incorrect.... when the SIR lamp is on, the system is disabled by default (to eliminate an accidental deployment), so no airbag system. This is similar to the ABS system not working when the ABS light is on, you have base brakes but no antilock.

Also, you guys who are pulling connectors, cleaning, etc... be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to pull the SIR fuse(s) after you disconnect the battery and not touch the system for 5 minutes, as the DERM will retain power (that's one of its jobs), and can deploy the inflator module (airbag). These airbags deploy with considerable power, and if you were to be right next to to it (like if you're playing around under the dash), it can conceivably break your neck! Most DERMS will drain power within a minutes, but some have been known to stay on longer. GM pounded this in our heads when SIR systems came out, and it's still good practice.

As an aside, I remember a GM training film where they were trying to deploy the airbag in a test Corvette at the Porsche proving grounds in Germany. They did a lot of stuff, hitting barrells, driving into gravel pits @ 100MPH, and my personal favorite; hitting a bump at 100+ and getting serious air, enough that when the Vette hit the ground, it broke the transmission case! Not once did the airbag deploy, though....

 

[alka1967]

Al,
Sorry, but you are incorrect.... when the SIR lamp is on, the system is disabled by default (to eliminate an accidental deployment), so no airbag system. This is similar to the ABS system not working when the ABS light is on, you have base brakes but no antilock.

Also, you guys who are pulling connectors, cleaning, etc... be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to pull the SIR fuse(s) after you disconnect the battery and not touch the system for 5 minutes, as the DERM will retain power (that's one of its jobs), and can deploy the inflator module (airbag). These airbags deploy with considerable power, and if you were to be right next to to it (like if you're playing around under the dash), it can conceivably break your neck! Most DERMS will drain power within a minutes, but some have been known to stay on longer. GM pounded this in our heads when SIR systems came out, and it's still good practice.

As an aside, I remember a GM training film where they were trying to deploy the airbag in a test Corvette at the Porsche proving grounds in Germany. They did a lot of stuff, hitting barrells, driving into gravel pits @ 100MPH, and my personal favorite; hitting a bump at 100+ and getting serious air, enough that when the Vette hit the ground, it broke the transmission case! Not once did the airbag deploy, though....

Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I guess this means the air bag probably won't work if the light is on or off. Great!

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

More SIR fun

Further on connectors.....

The SIR system is designed with self-shorting connectors..meaning when the connection is broken (taken apart), there are shorting bars that drop across the open connector..this is to prevent an accidental spark across the terminals, and especially on that connector at the base of the steering column! So don't go bending any of the connectors that "just don't look right", or you may further damage the system. Also, all SIR circuits have distinctive yellow insulation around all the wiring harnesses.
To troubleshoot the system, in addition to a good scan tool, you'll need an SIR load simulator (GM essential tool at a dealership), to simulate the inflator mudule (air bag) when in diagnostic mode. Last time I checked, they were still $500+ bucks. Most of the time, the common code is 26, which is, of course the passenger side forward sensor ground (or lack thereof). The best way to attack it is to use a Scotchbrite Roloc wheel on a die grinder and clean the mounting points to bare metal, attacking all rust, corrosion, etc., then use dielectric grease to help seal out moisture.

Good luck!

 

[roberer]

I have the same problem with my 1990. The seatbelts won't help. Summit racing and MidAmerica sell a device that you plug in your OBD II outlet to clear it. I believe it's $25. There are 2 sensors (like decelerometers) in the engine compartment that need to have a non-conductive grease under them so they don't short to the metal frame. If the grease is gone you will get the light. I found one sensor under the battery, I believe the other in somewhere near the air conditioning condenser (naturally they're underneath so removal is required.

Hope this helps. I's try the Tool 1st, if the light clears you're good to go!

 

[alka1967]

Roberer,
Thanks for the reply. I know about the device you mentioned from reading posts on this forum. Did the device work for you? I also talked to the service mgr at the local Chevy dealer and he said they could fix it. I read (again, on this forum) that the grease wasn't even used until 91 after Chevy found out what was happening to the 90 vette. The previous owner said the light wasn't on when the car was shipped from GA in Dec, so I think the contacts got corroded from road dirt/salt.

It's in my barn until the snow melts here in upstate NY, but thanks, again, for your input.