Help! 93 40th Anniversary Ruby Red won't crank

[93annivette]

Parked our 1993 40th Anniversary Ruby Red in our garage last Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning we could not find the keys: ignition, door, and gas as well as the fob. Have looked all over and no keys. Doors were locked and top off. Reached in car and pressed hatch button in center console and horn started blowing so I disconnected horns under the hood and the battery also. Called a local Chevy dealer who gave me VATS codes and I had locksmith make an ignition key. When you turn the key in the ignition the dashboard lights up but there is no sound from the engine compartment. Any suggestions?

 

[forrest]

Parked our 1993 40th Anniversary Ruby Red in our garage last Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning we could not find the keys: ignition, door, and gas as well as the fob. Have looked all over and no keys. Doors were locked and top off. Reached in car and pressed hatch button in center console and horn started blowing so I disconnected horns under the hood and the battery also. Called a local Chevy dealer who gave me VATS codes and I had locksmith make an ignition key. When you turn the key in the ignition the dashboard lights up but there is no sound from the engine compartment. Any suggestions?

step 1 verify VATs code I do believe there are 14 or 15 of them, wrong code no crank. so if you got the key second party (eBay, local lock smith) could be off a little or dead wrong, if it s a GM key the vats code should be in the little knock out in the area the key ring goes. so when dealer is open take new key have them verify code. also VATs if the system doesn't like the code or it miss reads it will NOT allow the car to start even with the rite code if memory is rite 10 or so minutes. also make sure chip in key is clean no protectant still on it give it a little wipe but NO scrubbing


were did the dealer get the code? are you sure its your cars code. if the has not been touched for a while give it another try if it is a automatic slide shifter thru a park to drive run. and if a stick well you know make sure clutch switch is working.

sounds silly is the battery ok? you said you disconnected battery did you make a good reconnect. has good charge.
I hope I have not offended in any way but these are the basics were I would start

 

[93annivette]

Ignition key issue

step 1 verify VATs code I do believe there are 14 of them, wrong code no crank. so if you got the key second party (eBay, local lock smith) could be off a little or dead wrong, if it s a GM key the vats code should be in the little knock out in the area the key ring goes. so when dealer is open take new key have them verify code. also VATs if the system doesn't like the code or it miss reads it will NOT allow the car to start even with the rite code if memory is rite 10 or so minutes. also make sure chip in key is clean no protectant still on it give it a little wipe but NO scrubbing


were did the dealer get the code? are you sure its your cars code. if the has not been touched for a while give it another try if it is a automatic slide shifter thru a park to drive run. and if a stick well you know make sure clutch switch is working.

sounds silly is the battery ok? you said you disconnected battery did you make a good reconnect. has good charge.
I hope I have not offended in any way but these are the basics were I would start

The dealer's(Emerling Chevrolet) parts man told me he got the VATS key code from a restricted dealer site. He told me it was a #2 key which is one of the lowest resistence level key values. I don't know myself if it is the car's correct code since I do not have access to that site. I had to rely on him for this. The battery is new and has good charge-it is connected to a trickle charger in the garage and the light on the trickle charger is green which means the battery is charged. What I wonder is that when I disconnected the horns and battery when the horn alarm system went off that somehow I didn't goof up something else-that is if the alarm impulse was still going on even though the horns couldn't sound. Also do I wipe off the new key with a dry cloth?

 

[forrest]

The dealer's(Emerling Chevrolet) parts man told me he got the VATS key code from a restricted dealer site. He told me it was a #2 key which is one of the lowest resistence level key values. I don't know myself if it is the car's correct code since I do not have access to that site. I had to rely on him for this. The battery is new and has good charge-it is connected to a trickle charger in the garage and the light on the trickle charger is green which means the battery is charged. What I wonder is that when I disconnected the horns and battery when the horn alarm system went off that somehow I didn't goof up something else-that is if the alarm impulse was still going on even though the horns couldn't sound. Also do I wipe off the new key with a dry cloth?

tee shirt is fine also look to see if any plastic flashing is over the contacts (molding residue) the contacts should be visible and a little above plastic adhering it to the key (this doesn't mean grind away plastic) just if the some extra molding left over flick it away with a finger nail, much more than that go to dealer and say key has a problem.


after dusting off my manual we can dial back time out (the amount time between tries) to 3 minute's but I would give it 4 and their are lots things involved this problem if we don't find the silly one that is causing all this.

one thing that I have noticed with my own car when the alarm is going and I am trying to disarm as soon as the ignition key Is in and the recognizes the chip the alarm resets. this could be a easy way to read your key and see if you have rite code

 

[ecss]

Parked our 1993 40th Anniversary Ruby Red in our garage last Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning we could not find the keys: ignition, door, and gas as well as the fob. Have looked all over and no keys. Doors were locked and top off. Reached in car and pressed hatch button in center console and horn started blowing so I disconnected horns under the hood and the battery also. Called a local Chevy dealer who gave me VATS codes and I had locksmith make an ignition key. When you turn the key in the ignition the dashboard lights up but there is no sound from the engine compartment. Any suggestions?

When you insert the ignition key and turn the ignition On, the Security light in the dash cluster should go On then Off. If the Security light remains On, the key pellet value does not match what the CCM was programmed for. If the CCM was ever replaced, chances are the key pellet value is not the same value that GM has on file. Could also be the person who cut the new key didn't use a code 2 key.
A #2 key should be 523 ohms.

To turn the alarm off, you need to insert the door key and unlock the door.

 

[93annivette]

Key issues resolved

When you insert the ignition key and turn the ignition On, the Security light in the dash cluster should go On then Off. If the Security light remains On, the key pellet value does not match what the CCM was programmed for. If the CCM was ever replaced, chances are the key pellet value is not the same value that GM has on file. Could also be the person who cut the new key didn't use a code 2 key.
A #2 key should be 523 ohms.

To turn the alarm off, you need to insert the door key and unlock the door.

Our local mechanic referred us to a locksmith they use who came today and made all the keys-ignition, door, and gas cap. Turns out the VATS code supplied by Emerling the Chevy dealer was incorrect. They said it was a #2 but turned out, after the locksmith tried a number of times with different resistence levels, to be a #14 VATS code. The engine cranked right over. Can't understand how Emerling could give the correct code to cut the key and not also give the correct VATS code for that cut??? I had a spare set made which I should have done when I bought the car. Thanks everyone for all your help.

 

[forrest]

Our local mechanic referred us to a locksmith they use who came today and made all the keys-ignition, door, and gas cap. Turns out the VATS code supplied by Emerling the Chevy dealer was incorrect. They said it was a #2 but turned out, after the locksmith tried a number of times with different resistence levels, to be a #14 VATS code. The engine cranked right over. Can't understand how Emerling could give the correct code to cut the key and not also give the correct VATS code for that cut??? I had a spare set made which I should have done when I bought the car. Thanks everyone for all your help.

just another annoying aggravating problem,

we all knew that once found it would be simple, what's going to be more aggravating is when you find the silly place your keys were hiding