96 clutch replacement

[LT4John]

Going to replace my clutch in my 96 LT4 this week. I have not done a clutch since the 80s and never on a C4. Is there a link to a step by step clutch replacement process for a 96? I know I have to drop the exhaust, but believe the rest is much like any other car. Any help would be great.

 

[gmjunkie]

Going to replace my clutch in my 96 LT4 this week. I have not done a clutch since the 80s and never on a C4. Is there a link to a step by step clutch replacement process for a 96? I know I have to drop the exhaust, but believe the rest is much like any other car. Any help would be great.

You have to remove the C Beam from the Tail Shaft Housing to the Differential Housing too,after that it's purdy much like anything else!

 

[G Winter]

If your pilot bushing is bronze , DO NOT put grease on it. I have a couple threads here on replacing clutch. There are also others that are even better.

Glenn

 

[LT4John]

If your pilot bushing is bronze , DO NOT put grease on it. I have a couple threads here on replacing clutch. There are also others that are even better.

Glenn

Thanks, could you point me to the threads?

 

[Hib Halverson]

In addition to what's already been discussed, you need to consider the weight of the ZF S6-40. You will need either a trans jack or at least two people to remove that transmission. I recommend a trans jack AND two people.

Once you get the gearbox out, the clutch off and the flywheel out, you may find the dual-mass flywheel is warped...it's pretty common, especially on high-mileage cars. While it is possible to resurface a dual mass, there are very few machine shops which have the equipment and the expertise to do it. Most machine shops will tell you it can't be done. I only know of one machine shop which can and it's in Southern California. And--even if you could get it properly machined, because of the design of the dual mass wheel, if a significant amount of material has to be removed to true the friction surface, that sometimes makes the flywheel more prone to warpage than it was before because it's heat sinking ability has been reduced.

The other alternatives are, of course, a new dual-mass wheel--if you can find one and are willing to pay the high price--or conversion to a standard flywheel (ie: "single mass"). The problem with going to a standard aluminum flywheel is the increase in gear rattle from the ZF. Most people, confronted with the cost of a new dual mass wheel, buy an aluminum std. wheel.

As for what clutch parts to use, I've had the best luck with McLeod alum. flywheels, clutches and discs for C4s. I have a McLeod set-up in my 95 Coupe which has been there for about ten years and has worked very well. I just put a McLeod flywheel/clutch assy in my C5 and, although it's only been in there for a week, I've happy with the smooth clutch release and the low pedal effort. McLeod Industries: Performance Engineered Drivetrain Components

 

[LT4John]

You have to remove the C Beam from the Tail Shaft Housing to the Differential Housing too,after that it's purdy much like anything else!

Thanks. I got the exhaust out an now working on removing the C Beam. Got the rear bolts out on the differential but can't get to the top nuts on the tail shaft bolts, no room between the boby and tail shaft, any recommendations?

Regards, LT4John

 

[G Winter]

You should be able to get a box end wrench on the nuts,then turn the bolts.
The position has to be just right. I would say a socket would be impossible.
Shifter in third gear when you drop the trans.

Glenn

 

[LT4John]

You should be able to get a box end wrench on the nuts,then turn the bolts.
The position has to be just right. I would say a socket would be impossible.
Shifter in third gear when you drop the trans.

Glenn

Thanks, got the bolts out. I can't remove the C beam from the car, no room, guess I will just leave it in and work around it.
So I don't need to take the shifter out, great, that will save some work.

Thanks for everyones help, going to pull the trans out this week

 

[G Winter]

Thanks, got the bolts out. I can't remove the C beam from the car, no room, guess I will just leave it in and work around it.
So I don't need to take the shifter out, great, that will save some work.

Thanks for everyones help, going to pull the trans out this week

You can slide it back on the diff. There is room to take it out. Kind of like a puzzle but the last time I had the transmission out I just slid it back out of the way.

When you install the C beam you should put what GM calls a sealer on the contact surfaces , I used RTV .
No experience in that area but have been told if you don't you get popping noise

Glenn

 

[vetteoz]

Thanks, got the bolts out. I can't remove the C beam from the car, no room, guess I will just leave it in and work around it.

If you lower the trans somewhat you can knock the beam back and to the side of the diff then lever the trans to one side to allow the beam to come forward and down