96 No Start

[Fast Freddie]

did you follow the " no start " check list? i have found them to be extremely reliable at troubleshooting issues like yours. do each step exactly as described and mark off each line as you verify that it is ok.

 

[MiMitch]

I've been trying to fix the problem without much luck. Item #2 on the list is what I'm trying to do. The description of the wires and where they come from are different from what I'm seeing under the dash. I'm not very comfortable working on elec. problems, so I'm very hesitant to start connecting wires from one switch to another. I'm assuming that the wires on the clutch safety switch are OK. The switch itself works. The purple and yellow wires are on a different connector as I described earlier. I will take another look under the dash later on this evening when the car is in the shade. Thanks again for your reply.
Mitch

 

[Schrade]

The purple and yellow wires are the Vehicle Speed Sensor (at least, they are on my '94 auto)

What's #2? (besides a sit-down trip to the john)

 

[tmkassin]

Horn relay is clicking because your battery is almost dead.

 

[vigman]

Mitch...

Have you checked the battery terminals?
My 88 , the positive side had the white powder.. and the lug was destroyed due to corrosion.. it gave me a no start condition...

Also all the start circut wiring are all large gauge wires.. # 8 or larger.

The barb fittings are for vac lines ( if you have cruise control )

Vig~

 

[vigman]

Also...

Do you know how to use an OHM meter?

Maybe the VATS is goofin you up...

Let me find an old post

 

[vigman]

Vats info

Some more info ( c-4 VATS) ( VATS 101)

The vats bypass cha-cha

Running down the shaft are the infamous VATS key sence wires...in my experience when the wheel comes apart that get pulled & tugged... and IF it was starting to wear out this dosent help the process.

A quick way to check is the following get out your handy dandy OHM meter and measure the pellet on the key, write down the number ( eg 11.8k ) this is the value of the resistor to enable the VATS.

Now tear out the hush panel under the drivers side, and find a small 2 pin connector ( with 2 white wires and orange sleeving) These are the wires from the key switch that contact the pellet. Disconnect the connector and measure the resistance with the key out ( should be OPEN ) and then put the key in
and you SHOULD get the exact same reading as when you measured from the key directly. Jiggle the key around and see if is intermittant.

If it is, there are 2 ways to approach the problem.

1) Go to Radio Shack and get a resistor close to the same value ( +/- 10 %) or do the math and get a few to put in series to get the number closer to the resistive value on the key. Clip lead the new resistor value on the other side ( MALE ) portion of the connector to see if it starts. If that works
solder it in nicely to that connector, and DO NOT plug the steering coluum connector back in! This defeats the VATS system so option #2

2) Have the key switch assy replaced ( Expensive )
You'll have VATS restored but... any theif who wants your car knows about the VATS anyway so it does provide a slim margin of anti theft. I myself
have put a secret switch over by the vats and is shorts the key sence line out, & breaks the fuel pump line.

MY .02 cents
Vig~

 

[vigman]

VATS Primmer

VATS Primmer On the Key is a pellet.

The Pellet is a presision resistor.

There are 2 fingers in the key switch housing which contact the pellet.

87 I believe was the first year of VATS

Vehicle Anti Theft System

IF the resistor( key ) doesnt match the on board value in the VATS box, it interrupts the starter circut via a relay ( hidden behind the panel where the "Check Engine" light lives.

Refered to as the DIC panel
Drivers Information Console.


87 had a different style key pellet than later years, the NEW key pellet had a larger contact area.

So there are a few ways to fix this.... ( read posts )

AND

If the Key misreads... the VATS will reset in 5 minutes IF no attempts to start or KEY in have occoured during that time.

Make sure the pellet is clean ( Shiny metal )

and you do not have a BILLION KEYS ON THE RING for weight.

A quick fix is to have a NEW key made with the NEW style pellet ( IF THE WORN PELLET IS THE PROBLEM)

The other problem is the fingers get dirty and or loose spring tension.

The BAD problem is when one of the TINY wires off the switch assy either,

A) Break off
B) Insulation chaffes and one side of the circut is pulled to ground.

This pair of wires runs down the steerring column and surfaces under the dash ( You have to remove the HUSH panel to get at it.




Vig!

 

[vigman]

And more reading

VATS/PassKey

 

[MiMitch]

Sorry that I haven't been on-line for awhile. I had to work last Thur. and Fri..
On Wed. evening I was checking some wires under the dash witha 12V. circuit tester and ended up frying a wire coming out of the steering column. Boy, did that sucker go up quick. From the time I touched it, until it turned orange and the insulation vaporized, might have taken 3 Sec..
Needless to say, it's going to be awhile until I can get back to this project.
I would like to takr this time to "thank you" all for all your help, patience and insight with my problem.
I'll keep you posted as to when i'll be working on the Vette again.
Thanks agaion, MiMitch