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A/C leak in passenger compartment

JWasageshik

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
6
Location
Commerce Township, MI
Corvette
1999 Torch Red Hardtop
Returning to an old discussion. I printed out and promptly lost the instructions for unplugging a clogged condensate line. If someone would be kind enough to run them again, or point me in the right direction to finding them, I will fix the a/c this weekend.

Don't miss the a/c too much since windows down and music blasting is preferred but I will need the defroster this fall before "Arrest Me Red" is put away for the winter.

Jennifer
 
Oh and rest easy my friend! Studies have been done on red cars, we do not get any more or less tickets than other colors! :upthumbs It is a myth!
 
ACDrain.jpg

Here is a picture of the AD drain. The drain is in the blue square.

AcDrainCircle.jpg
 
Thanks for instructions and pictures. I will work on it tonight or tomorrow.

Also, Toolguy, the way I like to drive it is probably best if I think the Police are watching all the time.

Jennifer
 
Problems all the way around. The picture is great except I have a 3/4" black something (wrapped bundle of wires?) running horizontal between the elbow on the drain and the bolt. Too tight and inflexable to move. Don't see anything like it in your picture. The drain is not compressed or crimped and does not seem to be plugged. I ran a plastic zip tie in about 8" and did not find any obstruction. How long is the drain? Do I need to find something longer to snake it out with? Anything else I should check befor I grit me teeth and take it to a dealer?

And to add to my misery, while I was under the car I noticed my front tires are down to cords on the inside edge. No A/C is now the least of my problems. New Goodyears or something else?

Jennifer
 
Thanks for the Tire link. Went to TireRack.com, very helpful.

Jennifer


Have someone who specializes in C5's put your car on and alignment rack and find out why the inside edges of your front tires are worn, or you will do the same thing to your new tires. You can also use compressed air to blow through your evaporator drain tube to clear any debris.
 
Problems all the way around. The picture is great except I have a 3/4" black something (wrapped bundle of wires?) running horizontal between the elbow on the drain and the bolt. Too tight and inflexible to move. Don't see anything like it in your picture. The drain is not compressed or crimped and does not seem to be plugged. I ran a plastic zip tie in about 8" and did not find any obstruction. How long is the drain? Do I need to find something longer to snake it out with? Anything else I should check before I grit me teeth and take it to a dealer?



My friend 99 had that same ¾ harness running horizontal between the elbow on the drain and one of the engine head. That was making difficult the removal of the drain and more, I was afraid of having a problem of putting it back. The engine was hot also and that was burning my hand… So I did not remove it. I just remove the deposit with my fingers the drain in place. As soon I touched it the water started to leak out of the drain. I inserted my finger in it for just ½ inch and waster started pouring. I think it leaked 1 quart on the floor. If it you can insert a zip tie about 8 inches, I would doubt the drain is clogged. It might be something else. The drain is 3-4 inches long.

As LL5 said, blowing air may do it.




And to add to my misery, while I was under the car I noticed my front tires are down to cords on the inside edge. No A/C is now the least of my problems. New Goodyears or something else?

Jennifer

I had a bran new set of front tires destroyed in a few months. That was the first time I worn out front tires before the rears.

Other than worn out suspension part i.e. ball joint that could be the following reasons:

The standard alignment is a negative camber for aggressive driving. It is even more for the Z. This is fine if you drive hard on curves and on mountains roads, but not good if you drive freeway only. The standard specs are also large and there is a lot of room to play with. You can set up the car for low or 0 negative camber or aggressive driving and you will still be in the GM specs. Depending who did your alignment it may change. Actually, the tech doing your alignment should ask you your driving preference. I use to wear my tire on the outside at track and on the inside on the hwy. I had my camber closed to 0 because I drive most of my time on freeway. No more road race. Too $$$$ for my budget….

Too much toe out. That was my problem. I had the car aligned 4 times in 4 weeks. It was <OK> all the time. I could not believe it. I scanned the web on do it your self alignment and I found an easy way to check the toe. I checked the toe and it was 1/4” out in the front.

Guess what; the new laser alignment machine was not calibrated properly. I draw how I though my wheels were and went to an other shop. I was right on. No tire wear since then.

Since then, I always verify with ropes if the alignment machine was properly caliber.

AlignmentTotal.jpg


AlignmentTroisEtQuart.jpg


some more info on alignment on my web site
http://pages.videotron.com/vette747/
and scroll down to Lowering link for specs or Alignment link for DIY instruction.
 

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