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A Question!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Enigma
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Looks just like mine did, except I used the black POR-15. If you're going to wait until tomorrow for the second coat, I'd scuff the surface with a coarse grit sandpaper to aid in adhesion between the coats. POR-15 is self leveling and dries to a smooth shiny surface.

Looks like you've got things well in hand. :upthumbs
 
Re: Do Not ignore water leaking into your Vette!

Enigma said:
Well , I've collected all the materials that I have read on this Forum. Por-15, New Carpets, Insulation material, Welder and started my restoration project yesterday,

Tore all the old carpet up. Took all the old insulation out and almost passed out what I saw.

I've had a small leak behind the firewall for the past 3 years when it rains. I thought that most of the water would drain out the drain hole that GM had put in. It seems that the water pooled behind the drain hole with disasterous results.

Thats why the welder is in my new parts list. I have a hole that my fist can pass through. Well it wasn't that bad until I started poking around. Or should I say Poking through.

All I can say to anyone else, Do NOT ignore water leaking into your vette!

Anyway with that shock a side, the job at hand was cleaning up the floor pan.

I will post pictures in this thread if anyone is interested in my progress through this job.

I almost forgot my first question:

Have any of you guys filled in that drain hole???

Thanks For listening.

Enigma460


Enigma,

I agree totally!
I have an 81 Coupe here in Australia and I was looking around after I got her home and found some small flakey rust behind the kick panels on the body mounts.
Stopped it in it's tracks though by wire brushing it out and applying some good rust converter.
The rubber body mounts are 'cactus' and seem to pump a bit of water in where it isn't supposed to be, the water sits there and the result is 'that dam rust'.

It's a good thing you found it when you did.
It is like fluid dripping on the garage floor from your pride and joy, you don't ignore that either, there is a reason for it and it needs to be fixed. Some people just ignore it.

Good luck with your resto, I'm yet to start mine.

Cheers from Oz

Tony
 
Thanks for the comments ajtmwalker.

Thumper, When you finished with the 5 coats (you must have money to burn ;) ) was the fiberglass mat still rough to the touch???

Also How many coats did you put on the lower side???

I went out this morning and the floor pan is rock solid. No flex what so ever anymore. Sure looks like this stuff really works. Time will tell though.

Enigma
 
Thumper said:
If you still have pinholes, then be sure to use some fiberglass mat along with the POR-15. The fiberglass will seal those holes and the POR-15 will make it super strong and waterproof.

Por-15 sells a filler that you can use for filling these types of holes as well.

Your work looks fantastic.

Bob
 
I only put a couple of coats on the bottom side. Yep, you could still feel the rough surface of the fiberglassed area. I was also putting POR-15 on the floor of my Jeep CJ7 project, so I just kept going between the two until I had used all of the POR that I had. (hence the five coats) Everytime I try to save some of it, it just ends up hardening in the can.
 
Thumper,

I found that putting the POR-15 that is not used into a glass jam jar , then put plastic over the the top of the jar, then screw the lid down. This will keep the stuff from drying out.

I just finished the 2 coats on the bottom.

The next job is putting the heat shielding that everyone is using here. It's the bubble wrap with foil on both sides.

The only reservation I have is the point loading of ones heel will probably burst some of the bubbles. And then some of the insulation characteristics will be lost.

I wonder if anyone here has placed a sheet metal plate over the bubble wrap where your feet will rest. This would distribute the load over a greater surface thus minimizing damage to the insulation.

Enigma

Thanks for the tip bobchad
 
That heat shielding is tougher than you think. I put the same stuff over the dynamat soundproofing, and then put carpet on top of that. It gives just enough to give the floor a little cushion, but not so much as to damage anything under the carpet. Plus, you should be able to tell that it's a bit cooler around the floorboards that it used to be.
 
I too redid my heat shield in my 80 but at 1st got the stuff you are getting but started messuring and figured it wouldn't be enough.I went back to Lowes and found it with the jute backing and a big roll for about $20.00 and it worked great.If your careful cutting 1 roll will do the whole front drivers and pass side.I also used foil tape on all the seams and also along all the edges and it makes a huge difference as here in Houston it was mighty warm before I got that in.I got sunburns on back of my legs riding in it before.I didn't need to do the back as had all the original still in place and was in very good shape.
When I got my car the previous owner had already fiberglassed the floors and did some metal patching but there were some small misses so I refiberglassed it with some woven glass and its solid as a rock.I should have POR 15 it then but didn't.I have the POR 15 in my closet now waiting for the right time to get it done.
 
Thanks intex99, I still have some reservations about the bubble stuff even though the rest of the guys that have used it seem happy with it.

What I did see once and I should have noted where I saw it but it was pressed fiberglass insulation with foil on both sides. It was about 1/4" thick.

I still have to find were the leak is coming in. I know it was dripping down from under the dash.

It would be nice to drive this beast this year!

Enigma
 
I think 1 thing I would take a look at is the whole and grommet where you hood latch goes thru.As I remember its right on the top left front corner and if the grommets gone you could get a good leak coming in from there.You might try some silicone on it if thats it.Also take a good look at the seal around your steering column and if need be loosen up those nuts and pull it out some and silicone around that as well.I had my column out (of an 81 I had)and the old seals weren't that great so sealed around it and tighten it back down and no more dampness around that area.Look at the main wiring harness hole as well.
Pep Boys also has that backing for 20.00 and carpeting that might match what you have as well.
I just got a 76 Camino that I will be putting floor pans in and replacing carpet.I will use that stuff in there as well but the carpet kits only have for front section so will get that carpet to do back floorboards and back wall as well.
The bed on that is a whole different project!
 
Ok, I should torch the car and collect on the insurance. Did I say that! :mad

ajtmwalker thanks mate , I thought ,"what the hell and look behind the kick panels", as you said.

Ignorance is bliss :hb

Sorry for the quality.

Oh, Bye the way, there should be no hole there!:r

Should I just POR it and hope for the best. This could be a major cost since it's a structural member.??????
 
Some Good news. I found the Leak!

The picture explains it , I think.
 
Got back to work. Foil is in place. It went in very fast. I thought I was in a bakery. The sun was out and the reflection was a roasting experience. Just needed to add butter.:cool
 
Did a temporary fix to the frame support until I figure out how much I want to spend. Basically cleaned the area, Metal ready, POR-15, Steel Epoxy.
 
Now the carpet is in place. I guess that I will have to cut wood back frames for the center panels since there is no way to reuse the originals. May be I will get to drive the car this year!
 
I think your repairs look great. I wouldn't worry too much about the hole behind the kick panel. It looks and sounds as if you've dealt with it pretty well. The alternative is such that I'd sell the car and buy a different one before I'd attempt that fix. Although Chris (69MyWay) might think otherwise.

Looking good!
 

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