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A quick update

John Mcgraw said:
Larry,

It is amazing how many hours you can spend on the little detail items! It is the the old 80/20 rule, You get 80% completion with 20% of the time, and them expend 80% of the time getting that last 20% finished!

Too true, John.

I spent way too much time re-working the transmission mount bracket (for the Richmond 5-speed) "after" the body drop.

You never know how things will come together until they, well, come together. :D
 
67HEAVEN said:
Too true, John.

I spent way too much time re-working the transmission mount bracket (for the Richmond 5-speed) "after" the body drop.

You never know how things will come together until they, well, come together. :D
Was that the first time you did the body drop? Would you recommend doing that along the way a couple of times to make sure that everything would line up and fit, particularly when something has changed and the body hasn't been back on to check for clearances? Just looking for thoughts on if you could do it over, what kind of lessons did you learn and what would you do differently the next time..... thanks!
 
firstgear said:
Was that the first time you did the body drop? Would you recommend doing that along the way a couple of times to make sure that everything would line up and fit, particularly when something has changed and the body hasn't been back on to check for clearances? Just looking for thoughts on if you could do it over, what kind of lessons did you learn and what would you do differently the next time..... thanks!


Herb,
If you are talking about building a chassis conversion, You better plan on having the body on and off at least 4 different times. I can't even begin to keep track of all the times that I put my body back on and off. Every major assembly job affected the fit of some part of the body. Even after all the fitting and measuring, I was still cutting and welding on stuff with the paint on. I was cutting and welding on the frame just a couple of weeks ago since I didn't like the look of the rear bumperette mounts after they were installed!

Regards, John McGraw
 
body drop

Hello
I put a trolley onto an overhard I beam, so I can raise and lower the body by myself fairly easily.
I can't say how many times I've lifted my body and I still have to a few more times yet
The one thing I did was to take pics with digital camera and print out black and white pics for reference as well, with the many fittings
Everything seems to be a tight fit on these cars
take care
Tom
 
John Mcgraw said:
Herb,
If you are talking about building a chassis conversion, You better plan on having the body on and off at least 4 different times. I can't even begin to keep track of all the times that I put my body back on and off. Every major assembly job affected the fit of some part of the body. Even after all the fitting and measuring, I was still cutting and welding on stuff with the paint on. I was cutting and welding on the frame just a couple of weeks ago since I didn't like the look of the rear bumperette mounts after they were installed!

Regards, John McGraw
That is what I figured was the case.....we are in the process of getting a new garage added onto to the house and my gal has indicated that we need to get a backyard buddy or something like that for it so having a way to lift that body on and off won't be too difficult....I am kinda disappointed that SRIII motorsports didn't do something to include the mounts for the bumpers. Art Morrison frames out of the west coast do have mounts for the bumper and also have the ability to supply headers and complete exhaust. Only drawback for me is that they also only support the LS1, LS2 and LS6 type of motors and mounts with their frames. Other than that it is very appealing......what to do.....what to do.....
 
The bumper mounts are not that big a deal, but they do take some time and some head-scratching. You might also look at Billy Dawson's frame over at www.corvettecorrection.com. Billy builds a real nice frame with pratically no fabrication needed. He also uses a fiberglass transverse spring just like the C4. Billy lives just a few miles from me, and he is a real nice guy. You can even come down and drive one of his cars to see if you like it, before you buy! You can buy anything from a bare frame to a fully completed car from Billy.
The mounting for a smallblock will work for a LS engine with adapter plates and all the mounting dimensions are the same. Most frame makers use the standard smallblock mounts so that any engine will work. If they use LS style mounts, I am not aware of any adapters that will allow an earlier engine to work.

Regards, John McGraw
 
firstgear said:
Was that the first time you did the body drop? Would you recommend doing that along the way a couple of times to make sure that everything would line up and fit, particularly when something has changed and the body hasn't been back on to check for clearances? Just looking for thoughts on if you could do it over, what kind of lessons did you learn and what would you do differently the next time..... thanks!

Had I done a stock restoration, I would say that recording the number of body shims, etc. would be sufficient for a single drop.

However, with the number of changes I made to the body, suspension, transmission, etc. more than one drop is prudent. In the case of a tube-frame restro-rod, multiple drops are absolutely essential.

:w
 
Herb I cant remember how many times the car went on and off the frame. It gets easery each time.


As for a 4 post lift,unless you get the extra tall one and hang the body from the bottom of the lift you wont be able to use it to install the body because its a drive on style. A two post lift would be a better choice for installing bodies.

if you plan on doing the car yourself. John makes it sound easey to install the bumpers mounts I had a strugle with them.

Tools I used,Band saw,grinders,Sawzall,clamps,squares,lazer level,sheet metal brake,Migwelder,cutting tourch.Hole saws,multi tool.I have been cutting steel with a tourch and welding since a child,(grand father owned a salvage yard and my dad owned an escavating company) Now dont get me wrong I absolutely love my SR111 frame, But if you dont have axcess to the tools listed above,or you dont know some one able to make the brackets for you I would think twice prior to such an undertaking.We have 2 local mobile welders in our area who i could have hired to make the bumper brackets up for me,if I could have made them a template out of cardboard witch I could have done also
 
IH2LOSE said:
Herb I cant remember how many times the car went on and off the frame. It gets easery each time.


As for a 4 post lift,unless you get the extra tall one and hang the body from the bottom of the lift you wont be able to use it to install the body because its a drive on style. A two post lift would be a better choice for installing bodies.

if you plan on doing the car yourself. John makes it sound easey to install the bumpers mounts I had a strugle with them.

Tools I used,Band saw,grinders,Sawzall,clamps,squares,lazer level,sheet metal brake,Migwelder,cutting tourch.Hole saws,multi tool.I have been cutting steel with a tourch and welding since a child,(grand father owned a salvage yard and my dad owned an escavating company) Now dont get me wrong I absolutely love my SR111 frame, But if you dont have axcess to the tools listed above,or you dont know some one able to make the brackets for you I would think twice prior to such an undertaking.We have 2 local mobile welders in our area who i could have hired to make the bumper brackets up for me,if I could have made them a template out of cardboard witch I could have done also
I have access to some great fabricators and powder coating facilities. The largest vendor at the company I work for is a fabrication and welding facility. The worse thing that could happen is I have to put the car on the trailer and drag it to them (about 30 miles away)....but they are good guys and have been known to weld on cars a time or two. The biggest thing I have to get comfortable with is spending the $$$$......
 

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