Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

AC clutch smoking

joshwilson3

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
587
Location
N/A
I've got an older GM car with the Harrison compressor like what I believe came on the older C4's.

I replaced some radiator hoses and was draining the block to flush it. I do remember getting the clutch a little wet. And it sat for a day or two before I got back to running it with the heat on as I filled it with distilled.

When I started it with heat on I noticed the clutch was smoking some. It looked like the clutch was hanging up as it should be spinning. But looked as if it was gummed up as it would turn some, then stop. The clutch got real hot as the clutch plug melted some. And I noticed an area of the belt was really hot.

I'm guessing that getting the clutch wet damaged the clutch?

And any special tools needed to pull the Harrison clutch? I know you don't need any on the Nippodenso, but not sure for the Harrison.

I checked, and I can turn the clutch by hand. So that tells me the compressor isn't seized. And I can turn the pulley, but it has resistance. I checked out my 89 Vette that has a Nippodenso compressor. And I can turn the pulley very easily. And I can get it spinning kinda like a turning a wheel off the ground.

So, I guess that looks like a bad pulley bearing? My guess is the smoke could be from the belt as the pulley bearing has resistance. And when the clutch engages, it causes the pulley to hang up some since it can't spin freely. And it got hot from the belt running around it without the pulley turning sometimes. That is just my guess.
 
I wash my engines at the car wash and never have had any issues. What does it do when you turn on the air? You may have a bad bearing.
There is a special tool to take that apart and I don't think it costs much but I am sure advanced auto or some other parts store has a loaner.
If I remember correctly the bearing can be replaced without opening the system.
Looks like there are two styles.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_A-C-Clutch-Hub-and-Plate-Installer-Factory-Air_5705487-P_N3569_T|GRP2001____

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_A-C-Clutch-Hub-and-Plate-Remover-Factory-Air_5705541-P_N3569_T|GRP2001____

Glenn
:w
 
I wash my engines at the car wash and never have had any issues. What does it do when you turn on the air? You may have a bad bearing.
There is a special tool to take that apart and I don't think it costs much but I am sure advanced auto or some other parts store has a loaner.
If I remember correctly the bearing can be replaced without opening the system.
Looks like there are two styles.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_A-C-Clutch-Hub-and-Plate-Installer-Factory-Air_5705487-P_N3569_T|GRP2001____

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_A-C-Clutch-Hub-and-Plate-Remover-Factory-Air_5705541-P_N3569_T|GRP2001____

Glenn
:w

I've got a kit on order to rent it from Autozone. But would like to find a tutorial on the process instead of just guessing and tearing something up. I just figured there was something somewhere on the process.

I've taken the clutch off a Nippodenso, but all that had was a nut and a couple of C clips. No special tools needed. I believe the air gap is the same as the Nippo of .020".

I was in the middle of replacing hoses and filling with distilled to flush it. Then I noticed my over flow was cracked. So, I ordered a new one and got it a few days later. So, I went to start it with the heat on since it was still filled with only distilled. Then I noticed some smoke coming from the clutch. And the clutch would spin some and stop like it was gummed up.

I'm pretty sure it is the pulley bearing. As with it off. I can turn the clutch which means the compressor is not seized. And I can turn the pulley by hand, but noticed it has resistance and won't spin. Which I believe it should spin freely like a wheel off the ground. On my other car, the pulley on the Nippo spins freely.

My guess is the water caused the pulley bearing to start to seize which is why it has resistance when trying to turn it. When the clutch engaged, it put too much drag on the pulley which caused it to not want to turn easily. And so the belt rubbed on a semi turning pulley and caused the heat and smoke.

I'm looking at clutches. And see for $82 a new one from Autozone with 90 day warranty. Or for $85 a reman from Advance with 12 month warranty.
 
I sprayed the front clutch openings with Kroil. And that freed the pulley up to where I can easily spin it. I've got the kit. So, I'll go ahead and pull the clutch off, clean it up, throw an old belt on and see what that does. The key is knowing how far to press the clutch plate back on. But I guess I'll probably just figure it out on my own. I assume a .020" air gap and 10 ft/lbs torque on the clutch plate bolt.
 
Just curious but is your A/C system R-12 or R134a???
 
Just curious but is your A/C system R-12 or R134a???

R134a. It was already converted before I got it.

I think since I'd just be guessing on pulling the clutch off. Since I spraying the front of the clutch with Kroil and it freed the pulley up so it spins. I'll just start it tommorrow with an old belt put on, turn the heat on and see what that does.

Just curious on another car that has a leaking front shaft seal. I know when the heat is on, the compressor runs. I try not to run the AC since the front seal is leaking. But during the winter, could I disconnect the clutch so I can run the heat without the clutch engaging so it won't sling oil on the hood? Or would it mess something up running the heat with the clutch disconnected?
 
I don't know of many cars that run the A/C in the heat position. But most newer cars do run it in the defrost and/or defrost-floor position. Obviously, if you need to defrost moisture is in the air or on the windshield. :D
 
I don't know of many cars that run the A/C in the heat position. But most newer cars do run it in the defrost and/or defrost-floor position. Obviously, if you need to defrost moisture is in the air or on the windshield. :D

I'll have to check again. But I seem to recall the clutch spins whether the heat or A/C is on.

I did check it out again, and it seems to work fine in all the positions but Defrost. As that is what I turned it to a while back when I noticed the smoke.

In defrost, it looks like the clutch hangs up. As you can sometimes see it turning in slow motion. I'm gonna get someone to mess with the controls so I can see if when the clutch hangs up. If it is also hanging up the pulley. I kinda wonder if that could be an electrical problem since that plug had melted.
 
somethings not right...

the defrost/auto/norm/bi-level a/c settings make absolutely no difference in what that clutch does.All those are "on" settings. the clutch is simple. Its either on or off. Its off in heat & vent. Everything else utilizes a/c for evaporation to keep the fog off the windshield and to dry the air inside the cabin.
 
somethings not right...

the defrost/auto/norm/bi-level a/c settings make absolutely no difference in what that clutch does.All those are "on" settings. the clutch is simple. Its either on or off. Its off in heat & vent. Everything else utilizes a/c for evaporation to keep the fog off the windshield and to dry the air inside the cabin.

I'll have to look at it again. I seem to recall the clutch spins when on max AC or heat.

All settings it looks fine, but when set on defrost. I notice the clutch looks like it spins in slow motion some, and stops. I may get someone to mess with the controls while I put my hand on the pulley to see if the pulley is moving in slow motion along with the clutch when in defrost.

On max AC or heat, the clutch spins like it should. But I put my stethoscope on it and hear a grinding when the clutch is spinning. So, my guess is the clutch is messed up since I noticed the pulley was starting to seize up before I sprayed it with Kroil.

I had thought it might of been the melted clutch connector as I believe that has a diode. But then I heard the grinding noise with my stethoscope, so I don't think that would cause that.

I may just put a new clutch on it and see what that does. I think I'll spend $82 on a new clutch with 90 day warranty vs. an $85 reman clutch with 1 year warranty.

Any tips on what to use to keep the clutch from turning so I can pull the nut off? I rented a clutch holding tool, but it doesn't look like it is for that clutch.
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom