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Question: Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Z06?

convenientandy

New member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
4
Location
Sterling, VA
Corvette
2008 Z06
Does the Corvette need an Adjustable clutch?
I hear about clutch woes from a lot of forums. Some people seem to think that the Z06 needs an adjustable clutch. Others say its a maintenance issue. I just purchased a used 2008 Z06 with 9200 miles:happyanim:. This vehicle was a bank repossession and was not maintained. I have changed brake fluid (black), clutch fluid (black), Mobile 1 (black:eyerole), rear tires were bald(like a spot on the top of my head:mad). I have corrected these issues . I'am told the clutch fluid maintenance is key. The engagement point seems to be at the end of the pedal throw and there is no slippage. ​Will an adjustable clutch master cylinder allow me to change the acuation point?
 
HI there,

First, the ZO6 does have an adjustable clutch, as the pressure plate fulcrum moves as the friction disc wears.

Second, black fluid is normal in the clutch system and will appear over time.

Third, GM recommends clutch fluid changes every 2 years/24000 miles.

If your clutch is engaging all the way at the top and NOT 1-2 inches off the floor, there is a good chance it is worn out from abusive driving.

An adjustable master isnt needed, but WILL change your engagement point because you adjust the THROW of the piston to push the fluid to the clutch.

Allthebest, c4c5
 
There is no such thing as an "adjustable clutch master cylinder".

The stock Z06 clutch is "self-adjusting" in the manner discussed by "c4c5 specialist", however, that self-adjusting feature is finite in it's ability.

When the cutch release point gets to the point you cite in your post, as "c4c5 specialist" suggests, the clutch is probably worn and, though it is not slipping now, it soon will do so.

If an adjustable master cylinder existed, it would not fix the problem. Replacing the clutch and pressure plate is the solution.
 
Thanks Guys

There is a company called Tick Performance that has a clutch master cylinder with an adjustable arm that connects to the pedal. I have not purchased one but thought I should ask around. I suspected abuse on the clutch since this vehicle was a repo. Sounds like I get to do some wrenching for a new clutch:bang. Would you install a 2 disc set or stay with the stock unit? The car was not designed for burnouts which I think the previous owner did a lot of. I will do no power adders as of yet, just want to learn how to track the car properly. Thanks for your Wealth of Knowledge, Andy
 
I suspected abuse on the clutch since this vehicle was a repo.
I think you found the real reason why the car is in the condition it is.
Sounds like I get to do some wrenching for a new clutch:bang.
Replace it with a stock unit as they're the most trouble free.
The car was not designed for burnouts which I think the previous owner did a lot of.
Thank you for understanding that the Corvette (nor any other car) is designed to perform, "Burnouts."
I will do no power adders as of yet, just want to learn how to track the car properly.
The car dosen't really need any power adders in stock form. Also, what kind of "tracking" are you thinking? (Bare in mind that the Corvette isn't designed for drag racing....if that's your goal.)
 
There is a company called Tick Performance that has a clutch master cylinder with an adjustable arm that connects to the pedal.
(snip)

The cylinders that Tick sells are adjustable for pushrod length. You can use that adjustment to control "freeplay" after installing an aftermarket clutch and Tick's cylinder, which may have a different diameter, but adding one of those cylinders won't change a a problem with clutch release at the end of the travel due to wear....you'll still have a worn clutch.

Repair the clutch and you'll restore the release point.
 
You's Guys

Hello Hib, since this vehicle is "new to me" any information is good. I will install a new stock GM clutch pack with all "stock components and that will be that.:cool!: :thumb

Hello Norty,
My impression of this vehicle is for road racing. I had my first day of seat time with instructor on Friday at summit Point, WVA
and want more - NOW!:happyanim:I had a 2005 Z51- great car and will track well. This 2008 Z06 just's wants to go, so I will let it.
I'am learning and will make it work. This is a superior vehicle "in stock form" for racing and thats why I bought it. Do you have any setup suggestions?
Thanks again, Andy
 
Hello Norty,
My impression of this vehicle is for road racing. I had my first day of seat time with instructor on Friday at summit Point, WVA
and want more - NOW!:happyanim:I had a 2005 Z51- great car and will track well. This 2008 Z06 just's wants to go, so I will let it.
I'am learning and will make it work. This is a superior vehicle "in stock form" for racing and thats why I bought it. Do you have any setup suggestions?
Thanks again, Andy
Ok, road racing @ Summit Point! Well, let's see. Here's a list for road race work:

1. Corner balanced with track alignment

2. 18" wheels with track rubber

3. Keep an eye on your brake rotors (cracking eminating from the outermost holes.)

4. Brake pads (there's tons of 'em!)

5. Replace windshield glass with LEXAN

6. Rear glass replaced with LEXAN

7. Install a Z 51 rear swaybar instead of the stock Z06 swatbar. (This will help you get off turns earlier without the rear snapping around.)

8. Pfadt coil over shocks

9. Remove the paseenger seat (and other non essential weight)

I don't know what level you are driving, so these are very general suggestions. Please notice I made no mention of "power adders" as the car is quite well balanced (power/handling/braking) from the factory.
If I knew what lap times you're running, then I can recommend tire compounds, brake pad compounds, alignment specs, cooling tricks anda bunch of other stuff. Get out and enjoy your car!;)
 
I got a 2009 Z06 after I'd had my 2011 Shelby for about a year. The clutch action on these two cars is different and takes a bit of relearning when going from the Shelby to the Vette.

In an effort to minimize this, and to make the Vette a bit easier to start very gently from a dead stop (e.g. in slow traffic), I've thought about having a clutch master cylinder that has a smaller bore diameter. This would give a longer pedal engagement distance. I've not looked at a MC to figure out how this could be done, but perhaps by sleeving it, changing the linkage geometry, or substituting a different cylinder.

The Vette had <4k mi. on it when I got it and showed no obvious signs of abuse. Of course, clutch wear isn't visible from the outside.

The Shelby may have a heavier flywheel which would help with gentle starts.

BTW, my Z makes 680 rwhp :happyanim:

If I ever get around to this, I'll post about it.

Leef
Dallas, TX USA
After 50 years, still looking for better ways to burn gas,
because an obsession is a terrible thing to waste!
 

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