Air Conditioning kits...?

[geekinavette]

Maybe this has already been mentioned...but has your car been converted to R134a already? If it has not then you have a LOT of work to do!

Bill

 

[Vettefan87]

No it hasn't been converted.

 

[geekinavette]

The "kit" you bought from AZ is for R134a systems...which have different quick-disconnect fittings than the R12 system. It will not hook up until you install the R134 fittings.

You MUST evacuate and FLUSH the system. Then you have to replace all of the seals/O-rings with R134a compatible parts (which you should do anyway since there is obviously a leak). The accumulator and orifice tube should be replaced also.

R134a and R12 oils do not get along well. Supposedly there is a new oil out that is compatible with both...but I think it's still too early to tell.

Another option is Envirosafe refrigerant (hydrocarbon based...vs CFC/HFC). Non toxic and environmentally safe. I just fixed up my AC and used this stuff....works fine. The oil is compatible with both R12 and R134 oils and seals/O-rings. As far as I know though you can only buy it online.

Either way you go...it's time to open up the system and fix the leak(s). If you're not terribly comfortable working with the AC system...they you really need to take it to a good shop that will fix it up. Never a bad time to learn though is there!

Bill

 

[JonM]

Justin...exactly what Bill told you is in that video linked above. You need to view that and take the time to view the others and read what else is on that site. Otherwise, you are going to end up costing yourself more money in the end.

 

[Vettefan87]

Okay I will watch it in the morning....or after I go to bed and wake up

 

[Vettefan87]

Okay, nevermind I lied, and I watched it :L. Now the connector I have that goes on the low side is not the same as what he is using, but the one my neighbor has and the one in video are the same, and is what I used to check it.

So I am unsure what to do now... The RPM's would go up and down which says to me that the clutch is engaging, and disengaging right? But It wont click on, and my cooling fan wont come on, or my compressor wont even get cold. It says it has a 100 psi like I said before, but I accidentally let some out and it wasnt even fluid, it was mostly air. Could air of just in the system and built up? I am told the compressor wont kick on unless there is freon in there.

Am I just not meant to have AC in the vette? :L

 

[tyrel]

There is a lot of misinformation floating around about a/c. Try this forum, where all they know is automotive a/c.

http://www.acsource.net/acforum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=31165c31f0f6af4f375846d8012c6a3e

 

[C4Tom]

Freon is in gas form until it is highly pressurized by the compressor, then it's in a liquid state. Then when it goes through the expansion valve it reverts back to a gas and that is when it chills. (Ever use canned air? Can gets cold as you release it) If you released pressure from the low side, it was in gas form at the point in the system. Don't open the high side, especially while system is on. This is an extremely simplified explanation.

I think you may have a bad relay, or fuse. Then again, your compressor clutch may not be engaging for another reason. If you have 100psi on the low side... it should work. Actually, not possitive about this, but 100psi sounds too high for the low side. I think it's suppose to be between 70-80psi.

I'd put a VOM on the clutch energize wire and check to make sure it's actually getting voltage when A/C is turned on. (cut wire?, bad fuse?) Have someone watch the compressor to see if the clutch even tries to engage.

 

[geekinavette]

When the compressor is off and the pressure in both sides equalizes...you'll typically see something like 100psi (both hi and lo sides). When the compressor is running the high side increases and the low side decreases...high side should see at least 200psi, low side should be somewhere between 25-45psi. This is of course greatly dependant on type of refrigerant, ambient temperature, and how much air is flowing through the condenser. If the low side is reading 100psi...then the compressor is not running.

Bill

 

[Vettefan87]

Any clues on the why the car jumps RPM's if the clutch isnt engaging? What is the draw on the motor then?? My dad talks of this relay that looks like a three prong thing, that is around 40 bucks, that commonly goes bad. Any clues on this?

 

[C4Tom]

Thanks for clearing that up, Bill. It makes sense when you think about it.

Justin,
I believe the ECM is kicking up the RPM to answer the demand for the compressor. So, the computer 'thinks' it's coming on, but it's not.

Yes, that's the relay I'm talking about. You'll have to look at your Haynes to see if you can find it. Did you put a VOM on the compressor wire yet? When you find the relay, just test that it's working before you spend $40 on a new one.

 

[milehigreg]

Just to be completely accurate

Freon is in gas form until it is highly pressurized by the compressor, then it's in a liquid state. Then when it goes through the expansion valve it reverts back to a gas and that is when it chills. (Ever use canned air? Can gets cold as you release it) If you released pressure from the low side, it was in gas form at the point in the system. Don't open the high side, especially while system is on. This is an extremely simplified explanation.

I think you may have a bad relay, or fuse. Then again, your compressor clutch may not be engaging for another reason. If you have 100psi on the low side... it should work. Actually, not possitive about this, but 100psi sounds too high for the low side. I think it's suppose to be between 70-80psi.

I'd put a VOM on the clutch energize wire and check to make sure it's actually getting voltage when A/C is turned on. (cut wire?, bad fuse?) Have someone watch the compressor to see if the clutch even tries to engage.

The compressor in any refrigerating system takes low pressure gas from the evaporator and compresses it into a high pressure/temperature gas. This high pressure/temperature gas can then go the condenser coil where it rejects heat and condenses into a high pressure liquid. This high pressure liquid then goes to a throttling device like a capillary tube or thermal expansion valve which drops the pressure making the high pressure liquid into a low pressure/temperature liquid. It then goes to the evaporator coil where it absorbs heat from the air and evaporates back into a low pressure gas. Round and round she goes!

 

[C4Tom]

Justin,

Did you get anywhere with your A/C yet?
Just wondering if you found the problem.

 

[Vettefan87]

Yeah when I get back from the lake cottage I will have to test that sensor or something to see if it is working. If the sensor is good, what is everybody suggestions?

 

[C4Tom]

Um... like I said... make sure the relay is turning on the compressor.

You might even start the car, turn air on, then jumper the compressor to 12v briefly to see if it works.

Have fun at the cottage!

 

[Vettefan87]

Yeah, when I get home I will have to find that like I said. It kind of sucks up here...totally cut off from civilazation. I don't even have natural gas up here! If I didn't have the notebook I would be pulling me hair out...:W

 

[geekinavette]

Something I just thought about if the compressor is not engaging....

Check your fuses. The compressor connector has a diode usually wrapped in tape. I've see the leads on this diode short out...which will blow the compressor fuse.

Bill