alternator to battery

[stingray01]

Hi guys,

nearly finished detailing engine bay. The thick red wire caught the alternator casing and a large spark/bang.

This has, I think shot my battery as it is dead and won't hold a charge.

my question is;; does this red alternator wire go direct to the battery without any in-between fuses or links. I know that the main live from the battery goes to the starter motor. Should there be fuses or links when they made the car. It is a 76 L48 auto. It has some plastic connectors with replaceable fuses in on a few places.

Thanks.

Jamie

 

[Rex S]

Alternator wire goes to the starter where it is on the same teminal as the battery cable. No fuse link to alternator but it should have a fuse link between the starter terminal and main power lead to the fuse box. Unless you left the wire shorted out for quite a while, it should not have destroyed the battery. Most chargers can not recover a very low battery so it might be worth taking it to a shop that has a high tech charger or the battery was at the end anyway.

 

[stingray01]

I will be replacing the battery now this has happened. It was a split second that it sparked on hitting the alternator casing.

I read somewhere about 'fusable links' on the vettes, does the 76 model have these?

If the red wire is with the main red live wires to the starter, could it be that some damage could have been done to the starter solenoid?

What is the best way to test it all out before the new battery goes on?

Sorry about all the questions.

Thanks.

Jamie.

 

[tracksnblades1]

Some applications have more than one fuse able links. RexS has indicated were they are located. Trace them back and crimp and solder the applicable one in. Some car quest and others have bulk fuseable links in roll form. Hope your running soon.

 

[mkapp7879]

These are the two MAIN fused links. One is for the headlight circuit and the other is for everything else.
The link is the short wire between the plastic connector and the starter terminal.
Check these first before wasting money on a battery that you may not need. Is your battery really dead or is it just nothing happens when you turn the key?

 

[Rex S]

I'll add this, in mkapp's photo he shows the fuse links and they must be checked for power as well as by eye. Fuse links use a silicone based cover that will stand much higher temps than regular insulation. This is done to prevent the burnt wire from grounding out after the link has blown. Mnay times the wire will look OK but have no internal connection so be sure to actually check the wire.

 

[TimAT]

Easy test- and without getting under the car-
Just to the right and behind the distributor is a rectangle connector with 6-8 wires- that connector has the start wire, BOTH fuse links, the heater and a couple other things- Follow which wires go down to the starter and check continuity- the purple wire is a single shot- no continuity- the other 3 going done to starter- 1 is a ground and the other 2 are the fuse links-

 

[stingray01]

Thanks for all the input, very helpful. I'll try all the variants that are mentioned.
Before the short the battery was in decent nick,but after the short nothing happens when I turn the ignition on to start her, the rear interior light is dim and flickers when I switch ignition on.

I would have thought it would have knocked out fuses before the battery . i will try with my limited amount of knowledge on electrics.

Jamie

 

[gmjunkie]

Thanks for all the input, very helpful. I'll try all the variants that are mentioned.
Before the short the battery was in decent nick,but after the short nothing happens when I turn the ignition on to start her, the rear interior light is dim and flickers when I switch ignition on.

I would have thought it would have knocked out fuses before the battery . i will try with my limited amount of knowledge on electrics.

Jamie

Out of curiosity,have you checked the battery it's self,or just guess it's shot because of the dim interior lighting??

 

[stingray01]

before the short the battery turned the engine over quite quick, so must have been in reasonable nick. The interior rear courtesy light was bright, no flickering at all. As I said, since the short, the courtesy light is dim and 'flickers'. That's what made me think that the short knocked a cell (or 2 ) out of the battery.

Will be trying to pull apart the fusible links today. If I do find one thats suspect are they easy to replace or is it a sparkys job. Where can I get them from?

Many thanks.

Jamie

 

[gmjunkie]

before the short the battery turned the engine over quite quick, so must have been in reasonable nick. The interior rear courtesy light was bright, no flickering at all. As I said, since the short, the courtesy light is dim and 'flickers'. That's what made me think that the short knocked a cell (or 2 ) out of the battery.

Will be trying to pull apart the fusible links today. If I do find one thats suspect are they easy to replace or is it a sparkys job. Where can I get them from?

Many thanks.

Jamie

Well,My guess is you finished off whats was left of a High Resistance Body or Chassis ground!!
I've found out years ago that Grounds are the major problem with electrical problems on these cars,I don't care what generation it is!
I'd start with making sure the battery is fully charged and then start checking and cleaning EVERY Body,Chassis and Engine Ground Connection from the rear bumper forward!
Bet you find at least 1 or more very high resistance or OPEN Grounds!!

PS As far as changing out Fusible Links, It's so easy that even a "HillBilly" can do it!!
(Don't want to P*ss any "Cave Men" off!!)

 

[stingray01]

you crack me up GM. we don't have hillybillies in the u.k. just good old fashioned dossers.

well as we don't have these links on our cars here, step by step how do you replace them, presuming one is shot to bits. see your point about the earthing.

 

[gmjunkie]

you crack me up GM. we don't have hillybillies in the u.k. just good old fashioned dossers.

well as we don't have these links on our cars here, step by step how do you replace them, presuming one is shot to bits. see your point about the earthing.

I don't have time to dig up some photos right now,I'm running late heading south to the NCRS show in Old Town Fl.!
I buy my fusible link bulk in different Ga's in 30 Ft rolls, But in short............................................
Cut a fusible link the same length and Ga. as the one blown,Crimp it, Solder it, and Heat Shrink it!!Put a eye connection on the other end and Crimp it,Solder it and Heat Shrink it!!

 

[LLC5]

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery first and then pull on all the fusible links and see if on comes apart, even if they look good. The one that pulls apart is obviously bad. Fusible links are available here in parts stores and you need to get the right gauge link for the wire protected, usually it is 2 gauges smaller than the wire protected, but if you can read the damaged link size replace it with that gauge. Crimp and solder the connections and then tape the connections thoroughly, and you should be good to go. Also, fully charge the battery and then have it load tested with a quality carbon pile battery tester (not an electronic inductive tester) to make sure the battery is good.

 

[stingray01]

Many thanks for the info. I wonder why they never fitted fusible connectors where they unclip, replace the blown fuse and reclip, about 30 seconds to do. I have one of these on the car, to the side of the alternator (passenger side) Is there a specific reason for the fusible links that have to be soldered in. Must be a good reason of course, just curious

 

[gmjunkie]

Many thanks for the info. I wonder why they never fitted fusible connectors where they unclip, replace the blown fuse and reclip, about 30 seconds to do. I have one of these on the car, to the side of the alternator (passenger side) Is there a specific reason for the fusible links that have to be soldered in. Must be a good reason of course, just curious

A crimp by itself can sometimes corrode in side the connection and cause a High resistance connection that can cause the Fusible Link to heat up and blow prematurely!

 

[stingray01]

finally cracked the problem. Bought a good battery as the other one had 'blown' cells and fitted that.

Checked every fuse and earthing straps on the car, they were all o.k.

The car started straight away from the new battery so it would appear that the red live wire at the alternator goes direct to the battery otherwise fuses or fusible links would have suffered from the short.

Thank for all the advice given.

Jamie

 

[Rex S]

Good to hear it's running again w/o a wiring problem. New batteries here are hit & miss as well. Some last 6 years and some 6 months.