SPANISHVETTS
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2002
- Messages
- 1,143
- Location
- El puerto de Santa Maria Spain
- Corvette
- before 60,63&82 now 90 383 Stroker & 91 ZR1-Sold
Iceberg Alternator info
Here is the information on the Iceberg alternator kit that I promised last year; sorry it took so long to get it posted.
While looking for a solution to the CS-130 alternator problem someone suggested that I try this product. I am not recommending or advertising Iceberg in any way, only passing on information acquired and some suggestions to make the installation easier for people with no experience in the rebuilding of alternators.
Overview
Cost: $39.95
Included in the kit: New rear case, diode block, brush holder, front bearing w/retainer, stator lead extensions, + post insulator, heat transfer compound, and heavy duty rear bearing w/tolerance ring.
Time required: 1 ½ hours including the photos.
The overall quality of the kit is very good. The diode block uses press-in diodes and is rated at a higher amperage than the OEM unit.
The instruction sheet leaves much to be desired. There are no drawings or photos so the novice is going into the unknown without a clear vision of the procedure. In addition the instructions recommend several methods that could lead to accidental destruction of your alternator.
GM´s list price for the diode block, brush holder and bearings comes to more than $100. (Lake Chevrolet web price list) Even without the new rear case the price is right.
Rebuilding the CS-130. Be sure that you have a good rotor and voltage regulator, these must be reused.
Mark the clock position of the case mounting brackets to help remember how to reassemble the case.
Remove the 3 case bolts (blue arrows) using a Torx socket and gently separate the case halves, be sure that the stator stays with the rear part of the case.
Press out the plastic pins (green arrows) and remove the black plastic rectifier cover. The instructions say that you should cut the stator wires. DO NOT cut these wires; de-solder them from the old diode block, straighten and clean them. If you cut the stator wires you will be forced to use the stator extensions. This is Mickey Mouse and asking for problems.
Stator before the wires are cleaned and straightened.
Remove the pulley, fan, and spacers. Make a note of the sequence for reassembly.
If your alternator has been rebuilt you will have a spring steel bearing retainer like the one in this picture, if you have this retainer pry it off.
The instructions suggest using a hammer and some tubes to drive out the bearing. Do not touch that hammer. If you do not have a press, take the case and stator to a shop and have and have it pressed out.
While you are at the shop have the front and rear bearings pressed off of the stator shaft and the new ones pressed on. Again do not beat these on or off of the shaft with a hammer.
Somebody has been in here before! See the extra hole on the lower right of the baffle.
Remove the plastic baffle by pressing out the 3 plastic pins. (green arrows)
Remove the brush holder, diode block and voltage regulator. (screws by green arrows) Be careful with the voltage regulator because you will reuse it.
This diode pair (red arrow) self destructed. (red arrow) This alternator still managed to putout 35 amps on the test stand!
Reassembly is just the reverse process with these exceptions:
Be sure to use all of the heat transfer goop on the diode block. If you don’t get some on your clothes go back and try again.
Crimp and solder the stator wires to the diodes. Do a good job on the soldering. This is a weak point, use special care.
The +battery post is a weak link. Too lose, it burns out. Too tight, you crush the diodes. I set the torque wrench to 12 ft-lb and used a drop of locktight.
Iceberg kit beside the old rear case.
Is this a solution to the constant alternator failures that haunt the C4? I do not know.
It looks better but the CS-130 is a piece of crap to start with. I am unconvinced that upgrading the diodes and bearings will cure all of its ills.
Of one thing I am certain, these parts are better than the OEM parts at about 1/3 of the price.
:bar
Here is the information on the Iceberg alternator kit that I promised last year; sorry it took so long to get it posted.
While looking for a solution to the CS-130 alternator problem someone suggested that I try this product. I am not recommending or advertising Iceberg in any way, only passing on information acquired and some suggestions to make the installation easier for people with no experience in the rebuilding of alternators.
Overview
Cost: $39.95
Included in the kit: New rear case, diode block, brush holder, front bearing w/retainer, stator lead extensions, + post insulator, heat transfer compound, and heavy duty rear bearing w/tolerance ring.
Time required: 1 ½ hours including the photos.
The overall quality of the kit is very good. The diode block uses press-in diodes and is rated at a higher amperage than the OEM unit.
The instruction sheet leaves much to be desired. There are no drawings or photos so the novice is going into the unknown without a clear vision of the procedure. In addition the instructions recommend several methods that could lead to accidental destruction of your alternator.
GM´s list price for the diode block, brush holder and bearings comes to more than $100. (Lake Chevrolet web price list) Even without the new rear case the price is right.
Rebuilding the CS-130. Be sure that you have a good rotor and voltage regulator, these must be reused.
Mark the clock position of the case mounting brackets to help remember how to reassemble the case.
Remove the 3 case bolts (blue arrows) using a Torx socket and gently separate the case halves, be sure that the stator stays with the rear part of the case.
Press out the plastic pins (green arrows) and remove the black plastic rectifier cover. The instructions say that you should cut the stator wires. DO NOT cut these wires; de-solder them from the old diode block, straighten and clean them. If you cut the stator wires you will be forced to use the stator extensions. This is Mickey Mouse and asking for problems.
Stator before the wires are cleaned and straightened.
Remove the pulley, fan, and spacers. Make a note of the sequence for reassembly.
If your alternator has been rebuilt you will have a spring steel bearing retainer like the one in this picture, if you have this retainer pry it off.
The instructions suggest using a hammer and some tubes to drive out the bearing. Do not touch that hammer. If you do not have a press, take the case and stator to a shop and have and have it pressed out.
While you are at the shop have the front and rear bearings pressed off of the stator shaft and the new ones pressed on. Again do not beat these on or off of the shaft with a hammer.
Somebody has been in here before! See the extra hole on the lower right of the baffle.
Remove the plastic baffle by pressing out the 3 plastic pins. (green arrows)
Remove the brush holder, diode block and voltage regulator. (screws by green arrows) Be careful with the voltage regulator because you will reuse it.
This diode pair (red arrow) self destructed. (red arrow) This alternator still managed to putout 35 amps on the test stand!
Reassembly is just the reverse process with these exceptions:
Be sure to use all of the heat transfer goop on the diode block. If you don’t get some on your clothes go back and try again.
Crimp and solder the stator wires to the diodes. Do a good job on the soldering. This is a weak point, use special care.
The +battery post is a weak link. Too lose, it burns out. Too tight, you crush the diodes. I set the torque wrench to 12 ft-lb and used a drop of locktight.
Iceberg kit beside the old rear case.
Is this a solution to the constant alternator failures that haunt the C4? I do not know.
It looks better but the CS-130 is a piece of crap to start with. I am unconvinced that upgrading the diodes and bearings will cure all of its ills.
Of one thing I am certain, these parts are better than the OEM parts at about 1/3 of the price.
:bar
