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Aluminum radiators: Who's best ?

I have the stickers (the ones with the part #) from both my upper and lower hoses stuck to my garage wall. This way, I will always be able to find an easy replacement.

I still don't understand the big downside to having the header joints epoxied? The only problem I've heard of is that they can't be repaired (welded). To me, this is not a problem as I'd never have a radiator repaired. If mine starts to leak, I'd buy a new one, which is how I ended up with this one :)
 
Tom DeWitt said:
I'm new to this forum, but not new to aluminum radiators. DeWitts is the only company in the world that specializing in Corvette radiators only. We have recieved a trademark from the US Government to use the terms "Direct Fit". Legally no one else can use these terms as this is the name of our product line.

We do NOT use epoxy and our radiators are a true direct fit. Be-cool offers one model for 69-82 applications and you will receive a modification chart with instructions on what needs to be modified. We offer (5) five different ones to match the original mounting. A63, A70, A69, A73, A77. Most C3 radiators require the upper left tank to have a "relief" spot for hood clearance, which ours have. We use press formed end tanks with ribs to look like the original brass units and the upper channels have four bends for extra strength and the original look. Our list price is also lower. You will not find a better fitting, better looking radiator, I guarantee it.

a69m.jpg
Tom,

Are you interested in becoming a Supporting Vendor here at the Corvette Action Center? We'd be happy to work with you. :)

http://corvetteactioncenter.com/advertise/
 
Tom DeWitt said:
I don't know what the 31" is referencing but the largest core ever installed in Corvette was 27.5".
Right ... biggest core = 27.5" ... the universal Al rads' widths are usually quoted in overall width ... that is core + tanks ... so a 31" X 19" universal measures 31" from L outside tank to R outside tank ... works out to be about same overall width as OE with 27.5" core. About does not = direct fit.
JACK:gap
 
Tom DeWitt said:
...One guys wants it to fit exactly like the original, and doesn't mind paying a little more for a perfect fit. They might also put a dollar value on the time it takes to convert and add that to the total cost...
It is so true. I wish I could enjoy the time doing everything myself on my vette like I used to. But I am that kind of guy who works like 12 hours a day 6/7. I keep the remainder of my time for my kids and to rest a little although I relax doing some things myself in the house or on the Vette.
YES, I PUT A DOLLAR VALUE ON THE TIME IT TAKES TO CONVERT.
In addition, I try to keep my baby as close to stock as possible. I decided to go with a Dewitt rad because only I struggle keeping this BB below 235F down here in SW Florida. Nevertheless, the less mods, the best.
So, I agree with you, Tom: I am your #1 type of guy.
 
I chose copper brass for mine.

I was looking for a radiator little more than a year ago for my 1970 350 4 speed. I looked hard at the Dewitt unit, which seems to be a really nice piece. I discussed the aluminum radiators with a friend that is an Industrial Engineer for a heavy equipment radiator manufacturer in Hibbing, MN. He stated that I would be better off with a copper brass unit, as it had a much better heat transfer coefficient. I do not recall the numbers he stated. He said the only advantage for the Aluminum rad was weight. I also discussed the subject with a woman friend, who formerly worked for GM. She is a Mechanical Engineer, who said she once wrote a technical paper on radiators. She confirmed that copper brass had superior heat transfer over Aluminum. I asked why the industry was using Aluminum rads so much today, and she said it is because of weight savings, and that in a mass production environment, Aluminum rads are cheaper to produce.

So end result is that I still really like the thought of installing one of Mr. Dewitts Aluminum rads in a car, but the price of a re-cored GM copper brass rad and its heat transfer performance, based on the recomendations of industry friends made the decision for me. I had the original rad re-cored for $250
 
Glen, I've heard the same thing on heat transfer, per units of the same size.

Ron
 
Glen Braxton said:
....copper brass had superior heat transfer over Aluminum. ...
I agree with you. Aluminum has less of a good heat transfer compared to copper brass. However, I understand the corrosion factor is slower with Aluminum.
I like confirmation of this.
 
The mixed opinions and claims can make this issue confusing but what makes this issue so confusing is that copper is a better conductor of heat than aluminum. But it's not about material vs material, it's design vs design.
"Tube to fin" contact is the key. Years ago I sent a bunch of radiators to Harrison radiator for heat transfer testing. The results have been posted several times and they are on our website. The test data is very convincing, and it's done by a third party. We don't hide the fact the Griffin aluminum radiator came pretty close to the original specs. You've obviously spent some time researching the copper perfomance, please do a little research on the aluminum performance.
For the sake of arguement let's say that all the claims are lies and the test data is BS. The only thing you have left is the field testing, in real cars. My website has testimonials from several famous corvette people that experienced the change in cooling performance. In a way, it's kind of funny that this issue never dies. We "upgrade" C3 cars (copper) by changing them to aluminum, so changing a C2 aluminum to copper must be a down grade. I have hundreds of testimontials and I have never heard anyone say that the copper unit ran cooler.
One of the biggest copper/brass radiator manufacturers (US rad) has argued for years that B/C is better, triple pass gimicks, desert coolers, etc. Today they are marketing aluminum radiators as upgrades in every Corvette. I just returned from Bloomington gold where 30-40 people stopped by to say the aluminum rad worked much better. Look pass the material question and see the "design" differences.
 

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