And....What Would Be Your Ideas For this Problem...???

[Kid_Again]

OK, VNV, here's the air cleaner base for the sb.

I run a K&N which is the same size as the original foam filter element so I have a LOT of space for the top mount filter. I used this circular filter in the orginal factory sb chrome air cleaner assembly. I understand that you need much more airflow but I throw this one out to generate some ideas.

Not to highjack the thread but the other picture is the latest project. Waiting for the electric water pump to arrive. After that, no power drag except for the alternator and I'm already underdriving that? For the newbies, I thoughtfully added a dramatic illustration of the CORRECT tool to restrain a radiator while working on it. I'm SURE this part is sold by LICS. otfl

Now, why am I am doing all this? Because I can.


So, when you gonna gimme that 850 so's I can mill the choke tower?

 

[Kid_Again]

Hmmm...just read all the posts about the hood scoops, boundary layers, etc. Interesting stuff. I basically understood JohnZ's point about the boundary layer which is why I ported my bb hood at the back.

VNV, the only point that I make about the K&N top is that it MUST increase airflow. More air is more power, It has to be a better flowing setup than the drop base/closed top that you're going back to.

I have an EVEN better idea!! Why don't you just drill half-inch holes in the side of the primaries to REALLY open that puppy up?

Geez, don't get sore.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

I dunno. I'm not convinced that you don't enjoy better breathing already with the setup you have. I take John's point about pulling in hot air at the top but a drop base air cleaner should take air even closer to the engine, the air has to go up the sides of the base, over the choke tower and then finally down into the primaries. Seems VERY inefficient to me.

First, I know you just LOVE that choke but I milled the tower on both cars. Don't regret it a bit.

You MAY want to take some measurements and do what I did with the small block. First, measure the distance you have from the top of the float bowl screws to the underside of the hood. You can fab a round, flat air cleaner base for the bottom ( I made a thin spacer to make the base JUST clear the top of the float bowl screws), use the K&N top and then split the difference with the widest air cleaner element that will fit. Daz 'zactly what I did with the small block. With the '67 bb hood and the stinger ported for fresh air, the top of the air cleaner stays cool even during the summer. Must be the venturi effect.

If you want to go with a lower rise manifold, I have a NIB manifold in the garage..it's yours.

I'll take some pictures of the sb setup and post them when I sober up


I'm telling 'ya, if the mood strikes me, I'm going back to the tripower setup for the big block. A new 500cfm center carb and new 350cfm secondaries. I'll use progressive mechanical linkage and I'll port match the manifold for the center carb. Remember that powder coated tripower air cleaner top that I made with the 9" round K&N sitting right over the top of the center carb? Very cool. I have one more blank left for a second top and it has your name on it you go that route.

I have visions of JohnZ chiming in and shattering my tripower dreams, though.

I dunno. I'm not convinced that you don't enjoy better breathing already with the setup you have. I take John's point about pulling in hot air at the top but a drop base air cleaner should take air even closer to the engine, the air has to go up the sides of the base, over the choke tower and then finally down into the primaries. Seems VERY inefficient to me.

Here's the deal... It's not the breathing that is the main issue to me here.. It's the Hood Clearence.. The K&N problably does add some extra air flow I'm sure but that's not the whole story here. I'm not dragen this car ..I just wan't some clearence under the hood and propper normal air flow.

John Z's point is valid...no mater what you do...the air at hood level is crappy.
All the talk of air intake at the BB grills that I was speaking about is another way of getting the air into the motor while maintaning hood clearence and using the stosk BB Hood and keeping the stock appearence. But is more agg then it's worth.

So if I go back to the flat top chrome lid ..It won't have as much air flow as the K&N...Big Deal... How much is that 5 HP ..10 Hp..??? But I will have hood clearence and still be breating thru the 3" Wide air cleaner with the drop base...all I'll be losing is the fresh air intale that the L-88 uses... The 502 should be able to breath fine.. Or.. I could check out what Muttley posted here..( Thanks Muttly)...

Muttley Maybe a Roger Penske-style '66 fresh air hood?

http://www.corvetterepair.com/Penske/index.htm

This looks like the best of Both Worlds..

If you want to go with a lower rise manifold, I have a NIB manifold in the garage..it's yours.

Thanks for the very kind offer.... But.. As mentioned.. The 502 Carb Intake And Cam are a package from the General for the 502... Changing the design changes the Tourq and HP and puts it "Who Knows Where?".. I think the best I can do here is to mantain the Generals Hi Rise Carb And Intake and cam for the street performance that the motor was designed for.

All I have to do is come up with a way of gettin hood clearence or Go out and get a new 66BB Hood as shown in the Link That Muttly Posted. Next to having the Air intake 2 feet in the air like pro stockers ( As Per John Z's Post)..
The next best place is at the base of the windshield.
So.. Now what......A Chrome Air cleaner lid... for $15.00 Or a new Hood and some paint work and an inductin set up for $1500.00 for some fresh air and hood clearence.....................

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Hmmm...just read all the posts about the hood scoops, boundary layers, etc. Interesting stuff. I basically understood JohnZ's point about the boundary layer which is why I ported my bb hood at the back.

VNV, the only point that I make about the K&N top is that it MUST increase airflow. More air is more power, It has to be a better flowing setup than the drop base/closed top that you're going back to.

I have an EVEN better idea!! Why don't you just drill half-inch holes in the side of the primaries to REALLY open that puppy up?

Geez, don't get sore.

Ok.. Put That Darn Mart-Tuny- Glass Down... Your Flaged..:L

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

So, when you gonna gimme that 850 so's I can mill the choke tower?

Yeah... I can see it now.... I get my 850 back with 1 1/2 float bowels ..No Ckoke plate or horn... yeah ..keep chuggen... them mar-tuny-es..:L

 

[Kid_Again]

OH! You mean you wanted me to stop the mill once I got to the BOTTOM OF THE CHOKE TOWER!!! Sorry, misunderstood.

Got your point about the hood clearance. Let me know if you're going to sell your old K&N top. I ain't o'fraid of hood clearance if I go to a revised tripower setup...like I said, I have one more tripower top blank (no big deal, I think it's a 17" equilateral triangle but I need a shop to make the cuts) and I just MIGHT cut in a full size K&N top....I would be flowing an advertised 1250 cfm if my ideas work.

Hey, by the way, I am almost finished with the DeWitt's electric fan install. Didn't I see that you ran the fan temp sensor off the thermostat neck? I found out too late that the sensor supplied by Spal is much smaller than the threaded hole in the neck. How did you do your install?

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

OH! You mean you wanted me to stop the mill once I got to the BOTTOM OF THE CHOKE TOWER!!! Sorry, misunderstood.

Got your point about the hood clearance. Let me know if you're going to sell your old K&N top. I ain't o'fraid of hood clearance if I go to a revised tripower setup...like I said, I have one more tripower top blank (no big deal, I think it's a 17" equilateral triangle but I need a shop to make the cuts) and I just MIGHT cut in a full size K&N top....I would be flowing an advertised 1250 cfm if my ideas work.

Hey, by the way, I am almost finished with the DeWitt's electric fan install. Didn't I see that you ran the fan temp sensor off the thermostat neck? I found out too late that the sensor supplied by Spal is much smaller than the threaded hole in the neck. How did you do your install?

I found out too late that the sensor supplied by Spal is much smaller than the threaded hole in the neck. How did you do your install?

I'm not sure but I think there might have been an adadter in the kit for that pupose. If not I might have one laying around here some where . I don't know where to look but I thinks it's here some where. But I know the adapter is a common item. I used and adapter that thraeds into the large hole and provides the smaller hole for the sender.

What you should design and build is a drop base Air cleaner shaped like a Tri Power base.. Then you could mount a standard Tri Power Air Cleaner..Cool.

I think Rich Laggase Built a custom unit Simular to the above. If you slam the tri power on then it should be lower then the Hi Rise intake on your ZZ454and you might not have a hood clearence prob.

I just finished installing the chome lid back on the 850. Got my hood clearence back. I hate the look of the round top though.. I woner if anyone makes a Carbon Fiber Flat Top lid like the Flat Chrome type. At least the K&N looked different....

 

[Kid_Again]

I checked my parts bag again and found no adapter. I'll call Tom tomorrow but will probably just go to PerpBoysAutozone and try to have an intelligent discussion with the counter guy. Probably better off with NAPA. No bling.

I think the problem with the factory tripower air cleaner is that you are WAY limited in the number of filter elements that you can buy. That's why I added the small K&N top filter...couldn't find a higher triangular shaped filter. Talk about EXPENSIVE. Sheesh. :cry

Talk about coincidences. The Autozone I found in East Amwell Township, of all places, had three new Holley 2 bbl's on the shelf..a 500 and two 250's.:W

 

[Kid_Again]

...yup, the sensor adapter is a 1/2"NPTx3/8"NPT goober (a technical term)

thanks

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

...yup, the sensor adapter is a 1/2"NPTx3/8"NPT goober (a technical term)

thanks

cool..........