Another Paint Question (Sorry)

[studiog]

I am preparing to order my epoxy primer, high build surfacer, base & clear coats and I'm not exactly sure how much to order. I remember that a gallon was sufficient for lacquer top coat but don't have any experience with any of the 2K stuff. My local supply house hasn't been very helpful as the girl behind the counter was unsure and the owner hasn't been there the last couple of times I stopped in. Yeah I know... not a good sign. They are a Dupont dealer and the consensus on the CAC forum seems to favor PPG. I may have to order PPG online. Any suggestions on quantities would be appreciated.

 

[61 Silver]

Paint

Hi!



Just finished painting my 1961 with lacquer and used the following:



One gallon of PPG MX241 Polyester Primer/Filler

One Gallon of PPG Kondar DZ3 Acrylic primer (same color as red oxide)

Two Gallons of Sateen Silver Lacquer

Two Gallons of PPG recommended thinner- slow

Two gallons of cleaning thinner.



I could have gotten away with one gallon of lacquer, but after application of the lacquer I reworked one fender, block sanded the whole car and re-sprayed the 61. The interior of the trunk, under hood, under trunk lid and the convertible top door were all original paint and I did not repaint.



I have 1/2 gallon of paint left to paint the hardtop.



Hope this helps.

 

[studiog]

Thanks. Very big help.

 

[rowingone]

Studiodog - I would highly recommend you get the MX241 polyester primer instead of the epoxy. I just shot it tonight and man is it great! It is a very high build primer . . almost like a spray on body filler and there is no way you could get an old corvette as straight with just the K36. After blocking I will cover this with the K36 prior to color and clear. I will be block sanding the next few days so I will let you know how its going.

 

[studiog]

Studiodog - I would highly recommend you get the MX241 polyester primer instead of the epoxy. I just shot it tonight and man is it great! It is a very high build primer . . almost like a spray on body filler and there is no way you could get an old corvette as straight with just the K36. After blocking I will cover this with the K36 prior to color and clear. I will be block sanding the next few days so I will let you know how its going.

I was considering this after seeing that both you and 61 Silver were using it. The only reason I want to use an epoxy first is to seal down some old repairs and any stray fibers that may be there. Could I use the MX241 after the epoxy? I have a little more time now to rethink this as I just noticed an area that was feathered over some old rivets from a bad repair and I need to straighten this out first. Thanks very much for the recommendation.

 

[rowingone]

I was told by a number of knowledgeable people including the local PPG guy that a sealer was unnecessary so no . . I wouldnt use the polyester over the epoxy. When you use the polyester you will be impressed with how nice it covers and lays out . . no question the car will be straighter . . and thats what we want right!! Think of it like skim coating with your filler but just spraying it on instead of laying it on. I have old repairs too but I"m convinced the polyester will be the best overall. You also want to make sure it is very clean before you spray . . make sure the cleaner you get is for fiberglas or plastic. Also I used a huge nozzel on my gun . . 3.0 . .to get a good think coat of the polyester on there since I will be sanding most of it off anyway.

 

[rowingone]

Oh and one more tip . . . you have to think like the final sand you do before prime is as flat and smooth as if you were spraying color . . in other words make sure ALL your repairs are perfect rather than expecting the primer to fix any imperfections . . . . go over it TWO more times before you start primer!

 

[studiog]

rowingone... All good advice. It's the little things that can make a big difference in the finished product. Thanks for taking the time to share that.