anyone know clutch/flywheel dimension?

[kevin-design]

Ok,
So just when I think things couldnt be any worse in my dealings with spec clutch, they manage to lower the bar even more-- anyway, I'm going to avoid that rant for now and just ask this: Because the factory service manual specifies that the dual mass flywheel should never be resurfaced, only replaced, there is no specification for the proper thickness of that component. Since all corvettes of that year have dual mass flywheels, there is no documentation for a single mass flywheel that I can find. Therefore, if I have my single mass flywheel/pressure plate resurfaced for a replacement clutch disc- i need to know to what dimension I would adjust the pivot point (that the fork rides on) in order to have a proper actuation. This would be to accomodate for the .005-.015" lost in the resurfacing process.

Any tips on adjusting that pivot would also be appreciated- I really have yet to figure out why the female hex socket has an internal threaded hole in it (the one holding the fork in place inside the bellhousing). Thanks for any help!

-kevin
*Edit: also- any chance on NOT patronizing spec again for the clutch disc? (ie. using a centerforce or ram brand disc?)

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Ok,
So just when I think things couldnt be any worse in my dealings with spec clutch, they manage to lower the bar even more-- anyway, I'm going to avoid that rant for now and just ask this: Because the factory service manual specifies that the dual mass flywheel should never be resurfaced, only replaced, there is no specification for the proper thickness of that component. Since all corvettes of that year have dual mass flywheels, there is no documentation for a single mass flywheel that I can find. Therefore, if I have my single mass flywheel/pressure plate resurfaced for a replacement clutch disc- i need to know to what dimension I would adjust the pivot point (that the fork rides on) in order to have a proper actuation. This would be to accomodate for the .005-.015" lost in the resurfacing process.

Any tips on adjusting that pivot would also be appreciated- I really have yet to figure out why the female hex socket has an internal threaded hole in it (the one holding the fork in place inside the bellhousing). Thanks for any help!

-kevin
*Edit: also- any chance on NOT patronizing spec again for the clutch disc? (ie. using a centerforce or ram brand disc?)

Not sure on the resurfacing BUT, the internal threads you speak of are for the locking bolt that goes in to the pivot ball from the transmission side. As far as I know there is no adjusting of the pivot ball, maybe with the resrfacing you could use a LT5 pivot stud.

For the Single mass flywheel, ram does not have a disc as far as I know (from what the tech guy told me) but Centerforce or Carolina Clutch should have something. But also the Clutch Disc from a 4th gen F-bdy will work as well as they are 11" 26 spline

 

[kevin-design]

Hi Jeff,
thanks for the reply! I'm still confused about the purpose of the threads though. From what I can tell, they are threads into a blind hole which is inside the (female) hex fastner. Is there a locking bolt missing from my setup? I didn't remove one and the threads are plainly visable from the tranmission side.

To Jeff or anyone else:
Kicking and screaming- i went ahead and paid for another clutch disc from spec. The single mass flywheel and pressure plate wore pretty smoothly and I'm considering just dropping the disc in there with no resurfacing so that i loose a minimal amount of material overall. Anyways, if the pivot point isnt adjustable to accomodate, then I was thinking that maybe you dont need any adjustments since the hydraulic cylinder would automatically adjust for any differences anyway-- correct? Anyway, at the very least, I should wind up with my a working setup and by the next time i get to changing it, I would hopefully be able to afford to get all new parts, or have a new corvette... Any thoughts appreciated (ASAP- as I'm shooting to complete this task this week) thanks!
-k

Not sure on the resurfacing BUT, the internal threads you speak of are for the locking bolt that goes in to the pivot ball from the transmission side. As far as I know there is no adjusting of the pivot ball, maybe with the resrfacing you could use a LT5 pivot stud.

For the Single mass flywheel, ram does not have a disc as far as I know (from what the tech guy told me) but Centerforce or Carolina Clutch should have something. But also the Clutch Disc from a 4th gen F-bdy will work as well as they are 11" 26 spline

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Hi Jeff,
thanks for the reply! I'm still confused about the purpose of the threads though. From what I can tell, they are threads into a blind hole which is inside the (female) hex fastner. Is there a locking bolt missing from my setup? I didn't remove one and the threads are plainly visable from the tranmission side.

To Jeff or anyone else:
Kicking and screaming- i went ahead and paid for another clutch disc from spec. The single mass flywheel and pressure plate wore pretty smoothly and I'm considering just dropping the disc in there with no resurfacing so that i loose a minimal amount of material overall. Anyways, if the pivot point isnt adjustable to accomodate, then I was thinking that maybe you dont need any adjustments since the hydraulic cylinder would automatically adjust for any differences anyway-- correct? Anyway, at the very least, I should wind up with my a working setup and by the next time i get to changing it, I would hopefully be able to afford to get all new parts, or have a new corvette... Any thoughts appreciated (ASAP- as I'm shooting to complete this task this week) thanks!
-k

I agree with your thnking that the hydraulic set-up should adjust but I don't know the correct answer.

As for the SPEC Clutch.. which disc did you get and what did you pay? I need to redo my clutch, I just got a Pressure plate from someone on CF and I just need a disc. I just find it hard to swallow the prices for their Stage 2 and Stage 2+ kit. in not so many words it sounds like there is NO difference int he presure pate or Throwout bearing. I think the Stage 1 disc is around $125.. I need to price the Stage 2 + disc, which I think I will be using this time around.

-=Jeff=-

 

[kevin-design]

I agree with your thnking that the hydraulic set-up should adjust but I don't know the correct answer.

As for the SPEC Clutch.. which disc did you get and what did you pay? I need to redo my clutch, I just got a Pressure plate from someone on CF and I just need a disc. I just find it hard to swallow the prices for their Stage 2 and Stage 2+ kit. in not so many words it sounds like there is NO difference int he presure pate or Throwout bearing. I think the Stage 1 disc is around $125.. I need to price the Stage 2 + disc, which I think I will be using this time around.

-=Jeff=-

A guy I just spoke with seems to think that I am correct in that the hydraulic cylinder will make up the differences in thickness. As to my particular case- I measured the components last night with a straight edge, and its looking like its the pressure plate that really needs attention- the flywheel is actually worn quite straight and smoothly. The pressure plate is worn significantly more such that it angles toward the center. This actually seems a bit counter intuitive to me, but its definately bad in that I dont suppose resurfacing a pressure plate is easy to do due to the springs. I'm currently looking into using a centerforce, ram, or other pressure plate with my setup as I REALLY hate to keep on buying spec products out of desperation. The disc that spec supplied with cost me $141 shipped. I think the guy told me that they normally sell it for like $185- but it should be free in my case.. <grumble>. This is really going to suck if i need a new pressure plate too now.

 

[-=Jeff=-]

Yeah My Spec Stage 1 clutch lasted 2 years. my centerforce lasted longer. I need a clutch but I find it hard to spend $500 on a Centerforce clutch, but then all of them are the same.. I snagged a Pressure plate for $110 off of CF ( brand new) not sure which one it is, but I think I will end up buying a SPEC Stage 2+ disc as I said before. the Stage 2+ disc is Ceramic/ Carbon. the center force DF disc is Organic/Carbon.

Good luck with your set-up.. I still need to call SPEC..

You could also look into Carolina Clutch.