Auto to 5 or 6 speed?

[bossvette]

John
do you know the shaft dimentions of the two transmissions? if the T-5 is shorter you will need a different bellhousing, if the shaft legnth is the same you can use a T-5 disc with a GM clutch of the same dia and re drill the bell housing; if the shaft is longer you will need a spacer.
When I bought my Lakewood there was only one part number for all Chevy
applications I would think you could use any Chevy bellhousing.
Craig sr.

 

[1978L48jafo]

Craig,
Here is a link to a post in the corvett forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=781824

The ford t5 is 1/2 inch longer and uses 10 splines instead of 26 so an adapter is in orderas well as a ford clutch. Noval is in the thread I posted and he made a 1/2 inch spacer to use a ford t5. The process seems reasonable he describes what was involved, my concern is the use of the dial indicator to insure the openings and alignment is correct. I am not a machinist but I suppose I could figure it out.

People keep saying (in the thread) that the adaptor is available for 250.00 but never from who. I am looking at a 10'1/2 inch bellhousing on ebay but I believe vetts usually had an 11 ".
Thanks
John

John
do you know the shaft dimentions of the two transmissions? if the T-5 is shorter you will need a different bellhousing, if the shaft legnth is the same you can use a T-5 disc with a GM clutch of the same dia and re drill the bell housing; if the shaft is longer you will need a spacer.
When I bought my Lakewood there was only one part number for all Chevy
applications I would think you could use any Chevy bellhousing.
Craig sr.

 

[1978L48jafo]

Just checked and my block is already threaded things just keep getting better and better.....;-)
John

 

[90 KOTH]

Bellhousings and flywheels

Regarding the bellhousings. I'm using the Chevy part number that ends in "621". It's apparently the strongest factory bellhousing and will accomodate an 11" clutch. You ban also use 10.5" with it. There another bellhousing with a part number that ends in "403" which was also a Corvette application, though I'm not sure if it is large enough for the 11" disc.

Also, remember that you will need the flywheel to match either the 10.5" or 11" clutch, either 153 teeth or 168 teeth on the starter ring gear, and internal vs external balance (all 350's to my knowledge are internally balanced).

If you study enough ebay auctions you get a feel for what parts fit what apps. Also check the parts supply catalogs for applications.

Phil

 

[Art Jett]

After researching for parts and prices, I think I might just stick with a 4-speed. I don't plan on doing any cross country trips. And to be honest, the price tag kind of set me back. I know this might sound lame to some, but we just spent about $85,000.00 on an addition to our house. I know, I guess I've got my priorities all screwed up! Oh well, it'll be a lot of fun to drive anyway, it's a vette!!!!!

 

[bossvette]

Craig,
Here is a link to a post in the corvett forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=781824

The ford t5 is 1/2 inch longer and uses 10 splines instead of 26 so an adapter is in orderas well as a ford clutch. Noval is in the thread I posted and he made a 1/2 inch spacer to use a ford t5. The process seems reasonable he describes what was involved, my concern is the use of the dial indicator to insure the openings and alignment is correct. I am not a machinist but I suppose I could figure it out.

People keep saying (in the thread) that the adaptor is available for 250.00 but never from who. I am looking at a 10'1/2 inch bellhousing on ebay but I believe vetts usually had an 11 ".
Thanks
John

from what I get of the thread to use the T-5 you have to make an adapter plate and line it up with the centerline of the bell housing. Assuming your bell housing is lined up correctly you could have the Machine shop turn a piece of aluminum to the diameter of the hole in the bell housing/adapter long enough to use it as a"jig" to line the two up and then drill the holes where needed.
there was a few links to geforce that mentioned adapters, but they are probably made to order you should be able to fine a Tool & Die or Machine shop with a CNC mill in your area who could do it for you.
I am a Diemaker so it would not be hard for me, but I do not have access to the equipment except on the job and I recently told my Boss what I thought of his decision to put his "pet" as the operator of a new WEDM and have been on his S***t list lately. Maybe 6 months from now or if someone else P****s him off and takes the heat off me

 

[4 webers]

I have a new rear yoke for sale for a tremec , for 30 $ ! Note it is not a yoke that can be disassembled thaqt usually cost 200+ $



geo

 

[1978L48jafo]

Craig I believe one must know his limitations and I most certainly don't have the tools or skills to make the adaptor, albeit I was reading through and thinking about giving it a try. I can wield and many years ago working in a body shop for a few years. I would like to make the new ford racing t5 work it would save me a bundle but if I go with the six speed I think the Richmond makes more sense. Its about 1K more than the T56 but you need two 350.00 adaptors to make the t56 work on a C3. I found a place in Australia (rod@rodshop.com.au) who says they have the adapter I am waiting on details and a price. Will order all of the clutch linkage pieces tomorrow and get it done while I weigh the transmission options.
Thanks
John

from what I get of the thread to use the T-5 you have to make an adapter plate and line it up with the centerline of the bell housing. Assuming your bell housing is lined up correctly you could have the Machine shop turn a piece of aluminum to the diameter of the hole in the bell housing/adapter long enough to use it as a"jig" to line the two up and then drill the holes where needed.

there was a few links to geforce that mentioned adapters, but they are probably made to order you should be able to fine a Tool & Die or Machine shop with a CNC mill in your area who could do it for you.

I am a Diemaker so it would not be hard for me, but I do not have access to the equipment except on the job and I recently told my Boss what I thought of his decision to put his "pet" as the operator of a new WEDM and have been on his S***t list lately. Maybe 6 months from now or if someone else P****s him off and takes the heat off me

 

[1978L48jafo]

Hi Phil, Thanks Yes I am been all over ebay I almost bought a bellhousing from a 80 vet last night casting 464697. The guy I am getting the linkage and such from has a 621 ready to go so I will go with his. His prices are a bit higher than individual items on ebay but its one stop shoping and I suppose this is worth something. I will post his name tomorrow he says he has sufficient parts to do three more after mine conversions.

I think flywheel wise I need the 168 tooth and I plan to go with a 11 inch clutch & Pressure plate yet to be determined.
John

Regarding the bellhousings. I'm using the Chevy part number that ends in "621". It's apparently the strongest factory bellhousing and will accomodate an 11" clutch. You ban also use 10.5" with it. There another bellhousing with a part number that ends in "403" which was also a Corvette application, though I'm not sure if it is large enough for the 11" disc.

Also, remember that you will need the flywheel to match either the 10.5" or 11" clutch, either 153 teeth or 168 teeth on the starter ring gear, and internal vs external balance (all 350's to my knowledge are internally balanced).

If you study enough ebay auctions you get a feel for what parts fit what apps. Also check the parts supply catalogs for applications.

Phil

 

[bossvette]

The Richmond 6 speed is more of a "bolt in" then any, the $1000 price difference is what swayed me to the TKO

 

[1978L48jafo]

Richmond 5 & 6 Speeds difficult to shift??

I just read on another forum some members complaining about how hard the richmond 5 & 6 speeds are to shift. can anyone confirm this?


My conversion parts are on the way I guess I will start removing the dash, master cylinder and other things in the way to make this happen. Having trouble deciding on which transmission.
John
:confused

 

[4 webers]

John I just did a auto to tremec switch in my 82 . You really do not have to remove a great deal of the dash . There are a couple of real stinkers to get to behind the speedo and tach cluster . These are easily removed by removing the speedo cable and the cluster face screws and dropping the cluster a bit to give you room to get them out . Removing the steering column really opens things up for you to get at the booster or master cyl bolts etc. If I can be of any help with info that may make the job easier just give a shout !

geo

 

[1978L48jafo]

Thanks geo,
I guess i knew that, I just put that dash in last year so I am not particullarly thrilled with pulling most of it already. Even with the dash out I remember looking at the pedal and bracket deciding whether to remove and paint or not. Even with the dash out it looked like a PITA. I am going to try as you suggested to remove the steering column, cluster, power brake booster and see how it looks. I need enough cleared away to wield the clutch bracket and hang the new pedal set.

How do you like the tremic? I am still weighing the choices Richmond 6, Viper T56 & Tremic 5
Thanks
John

John I just did a auto to tremec switch in my 82 . You really do not have to remove a great deal of the dash . There are a couple of real stinkers to get to behind the speedo and tach cluster . These are easily removed by removing the speedo cable and the cluster face screws and dropping the cluster a bit to give you room to get them out . Removing the steering column really opens things up for you to get at the booster or master cyl bolts etc. If I can be of any help with info that may make the job easier just give a shout !

geo

 

[4 webers]

I know well the feeling looking at the dash business , it is a pia . I have a drive on lift I fabbed up a couple of years ago that made this project a bit less painful . I removed the seat and pulled the column ,,, that part was quite easy and really opened the area up to get at the pedal box etc . My new tremec is just a wonderful addition to the car ! I bought the trans with out the keisler addition for the shifter from a local tremec dealer . I was fortunate that the 700 and tremec are the same length , so there was no driveshaft problems involved . I installed a hydraulic clutch setup instead of mechanical linkage .


geo

 

[90 KOTH]

There's a bolt on bracket

John,

You might want to try the bolt on bracket for the frame clutch linkage mounting point. It was used on the late C3's from the factory. I used it on my 79 and it seems fine. You do have to drill and tap two holes in the top of the frame. Removal of the PB booster and column are required for that so don't put them back together until you've gotten the bracket mounted. I got mine from Zip but other sources have them as well.

Also, my new TKO-600 kit from Keisler is supposed to be shipped on May 10th so only a couple of more weeks to wait until I can finish my install.

Phil

 

[1978L48jafo]

Hi Phil,
Appreciate the tip unfortunately my linkage and bellhousing parts are on the way. Perhaps I can drill the mount and use bolts to tap the frame anyway? Any tip on getting the fram clip correct? My plan was to install the Z bar and see where it set 90 off the engine block. Found that the assembly manual mentioned that there were dimples marking the clutch linkage hole and mounts so I got that drilled and ready today as well as the auto out and the interior removed (counsel, seats, and dash cluster).

I wish you luck on your install. I am still bouncing between the D&B Viper 6 speed and the TKO 600.
Regards
John

John,

You might want to try the bolt on bracket for the frame clutch linkage mounting point. It was used on the late C3's from the factory. I used it on my 79 and it seems fine. You do have to drill and tap two holes in the top of the frame. Removal of the PB booster and column are required for that so don't put them back together until you've gotten the bracket mounted. I got mine from Zip but other sources have them as well.

Also, my new TKO-600 kit from Keisler is supposed to be shipped on May 10th so only a couple of more weeks to wait until I can finish my install.

Phil

 

[1978L48jafo]

Help!! Engine Block Ball Stud

Manual transmission owners,

Most of my parts are here for the clutch linkage. I expected that the ballstud for the engine side of the zbar would be threaded and mount to the block. Can someone tell me if this is correct or does it just ride on a threaded rod threaded into the engine side?:confused

Does anyone have any tips to locate the zbar mount to the frame correctly? The person who promised a location template didn't come through. My thought is to attach to the zbar and place 90 degrees from engine mount location. Just to make sure, it is the mounting point that falls below and between cylinders 5 & 7?

Trans is on the way went with the D&Ds Viper T56 should be here middle next week.


Thanks
in advance
John

 

[bossvette]

there is a Boss below and between 5 and 7 that the threaded end ot the Ball stud goes into I will take a picture of it tomorrow for you as I have mine up on the lift.

 

[1978L48jafo]

Thanks, I think this guy sent the wrong stud because it has no threads. it has an opening and bearing mateing surface that fits the end of the zbar. I think I got some great lip service from this guy I am considering putting the charge in dispute and moving on.
John

 

[bossvette]

Here is a couple of pictures of the boss area, if you can zoom them up you can see the "wrench flats" on the stud. If there are no threads on the one you have it may be an aftermarket attempt at a "press in stud" to fit an un tapped hole.