Aux. fan plug

[thirdtimevetteowner]

Has anyone ever tried to remove the factory pipe plug (for lack of a better word), from the driver's side, where the aux. fan switch would be? I am trying to install a Hypertech fan switch, but can not get that stupid plug to budge. It is a 5/16" square hole, which presented a problem right from the start. Went and bought a piece of bar stock, welded it into a socket, and using a 1/2" breaker bar, twisted the bar stock, yet it still won't budge. Why GM didn't use a 3/8" hole so you could use a hardened extension from a common ratchet and socket set is beyond me. The engine is cold, so it ain't a thermal thing. Any advise would be appreciated.

Rich K

P.S. I called a couple of plumbing supply stores in hopes of finding the proper "tool", to no avail. If anyone knows of such a tool, please let me know where. Otherwise I suppose I'll have to put a manual switch to the fan and be done with it. TIA to anyone who chimes in.

 

[jrbartholomew]

any tool dealer should have one. snap-on, mac ,or try matco.

good luck
jeff

 

[DMGroh]

I have a '96, so I don't know what I'm talking about here. Is it possible the factory sealed the plug with something like loc-tite? Adding a little heat from a propane torch ?Just a thought.

 

[thirdtimevetteowner]

Thanks guys. It is beyond me how it could be tight enough to twist a 2" long piece of barstock, but it did. You would think the factory would use thread sealant, not Lock-Tite or anything to permanently keep it from being removed. I'll check with snap-on, or matco, and mac Monday; didn't think of them. But I still don't think it will come out, w/out something like a small hammer drill, which is also out of the question because of space. Anyway, thanks again for the thoughts. This forum is the greatest.

Rich K

 

[OLDCHEV]

I am having the same problem. Twisted a piece of 5/16" hard key stock into a spiral!

Thought about heat as suggested and will try it the next time I change coolant and have the system empty.

 

[ecss]

http://www.snapon.com Search for PPM410a
it's only a 3/8 drive

http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03221.html
Part # 41240 is a S-K 1/2 drive

http://www.sears.com go to tools.
Sears web-site shows they carry the S/K pipe plug remover sockets as a kit but doesn't show if they carry them individually.

 

[G Winter]

MSC industial supply catalog has them. www.mscdirect.com in sockets. special sockets. Third page. They have a number of warehouses and usually an instock item ordered before 3pm edt is shipped that day, Usually get it not more than 2 days later.

Glenn

 

[thirdtimevetteowner]

Thanks to all of you. I just ordered one online. Will let you know if it does the job when I get it.


Rich K

 

[1Bad86]

Just wondering if any of you had any luck removing the plug. I bought the Snap-On 3/8 drive socket, but that never had a chance at budging it out of it's hole. If anyone has any other suggestions, I would sure like to hear them.

 

[scotch1]

Plug

Hi everyone.

I purchased the fan switch also.
And now I have the same exact problem removing the plug, and gave up before I made matters worse,and possibly breaking something.
I couldn't free up the plug so I purchased a complete set of plug sockets, then removed my innerskirt to get more room and clear access, and still couldn't free up the plug.

I had to give up because I now started to round out the inside of the plug.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Scotch1

 

[G Winter]

I don't know how much room is around the plug.I haven't looked at it.I wonder if heating the plug with a torch would be an option? Some times using an old breaker arm and stiking it with a large hammer helps.

Glenn

 

[Inertia 500]

I design industrial equipment for applying heated materials and so I have some experience with steel pipe plugs in aluminum. First of all, be very careful because you can strip out the threads in the soft aluminum head casting. Anybody ever stripped out a spark plug hole in an aluminum head?

You could try loosening the plug when the engine is warm. Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel and the plug will be a little looser when the engine is hot.

If the factory did use some kind of adhesive like loctite, you can often loosen it by heating the plug with a torch. What this really does is it breaks down the loctite. However, since the head is full of water in that area I don't know if you can really get the plug hot enough to make a difference. I think you have to get the loctite to about 300 - 400 degrees F to soften it.

Good luck and be careful!

 

[1Bad86]

Hey Inertia 500, mine is an 86 with cast iron heads. Does that make any difference??

 

[Inertia 500]

Bad,

Yes it does. You don't have to be nearly as careful because the cast iron threads are way stronger that the cast aluminum. On the other hand, there is no significant difference in the expansion rates of steel and cast iron so the plug will probably be no looser when warm. I'd be less afraid to put the torch to the cast iron heads but the water in there will probably still keep you from getting the plug hot enough to kill any loctite that may be holding it in place.

If you are really determined to remove the plug, you can drill out the center of the plug and chisel it out!

 

[G Winter]

If he drills a small hole in the plug wouldn't that drain the water so he could heat it ?