Ball Joints

[Hap]

I had my 95 on the lift last weekend and noticed that the upper ball joint boots were torn. I went looking for new grease boots, but every person I've talked to has recommended changing out the ball joints if I'm going to all the trouble to unbolt them enough to get to the boots.

Question #1: Should I? The car has 70,000 miles on it, but I can't find anything wrong with the joints.

Question #2: The local parts store can order Moogs for me for about $100 each. I'm thinking I'll need to drill or chisel the rivets then the new ball joints will come with bolts. Is that the drill?

Question #3: How hard is it to get the ball joints off once the rivets are out? Several people have told me they'll just drop right out of the spindle/axle assembly once they're unbolted. Am I dreaming? Do I need some kind of specialized tool to seperate the ball joints from everything else?

Question #4: Should I also do the lowers?

Question #5: Should I just go about replacing the boots and leave well enough alone?

Thanks,

Hap

 

[Ken]

Question #1: Yes.

Question #2: Is that the drill? Is that a play on words? :confused

Question #3: I have never performed a ball joint replacement. Someone else will chime in soon.

Question #4: Yes.

Question #5: It ain't gonna get better by itself.

Good luck Hap, I know someone will have a procedure at hand and will speak up soon.

_ken

 

[Hap]

Ken,
Thanks. I was looking all over for this post and realized I should have put it in the "Technical Discussions" forum. Sorry if it's in the wrong place.

I really enjoy this board. Everybody has been most helpful with every question I've had.

Hap

 

[Ken]

Now it's in the Technical Discussions forum.

_ken

 

[JonM]

Just drill them out, then you may have to beat on them a little, but they will come out ...Your local store is ripping your off @ 100 bucks...you can get them here http://www.rockauto.com/ for 65. For 250 bucks you can redo the whole front end here http://www.p-s-t.com/ Even if you just used the ball joints, and tossed the other parts in a box for later use.

 

[Redbob]

Thanks!
That rockauto.com is a great site!

Especially when you live in a small town, and the local Chevy dealer has your credit card number memorized...

 

[FX3FX3]

BALL JOINTS

I replaced all my b. joints, pit arms and rack & pin,. It was an experience but not hard at all. Yes, they are about +/- $100 each. Using the owners manual you'll be able to get this done in 2 days (taking your time).
TIP: it was easier to cut the bolt and hammer them out from the upper "wish-bone" than using the drill bit. Your choice. Good Luck!!

 

[cntrhub]

If you have two big hammers....say 18oz. or larger, you can whack the steering knuckle on both sides to loosen the ball joint's tapered ends. This will move, "shock" the metal taper, and dislodge the ball joint. You really don't need to buy a fork tool to seperate these two parts. Remove the cotter pins from the ball joint's threaded shafts. Loosen the bolt until there is a 1/4 inch gap between the steering knuckle and bolt. Do the same to the lower side. You will need to keep the coil spring in a static position. This way, the spring's tension will help push the ball joints out of the knuckle. Simply whack the center of the knuckle on both sides simultaneously. Once you have both ball joints out of their taper, then will be the tiime to use a coil spring compressor tool to collapse the spring.
Use a, "two step" drill size to remove the rivets. The larger drill will be used to thin the head of the rivet. The smaller drill will be used to drill through the center of the head and rivet's shaft. Take a flat drift and hammer, to pop off the rivet head. Then use a punch small enough, inside the thinner drill's hole, and hit the rivet out of the control arm. You don't want to make the holes in the contorl arms larger than they are. The ball joint will "walk" in the control arm if you do. Use Red, or Green lock-tight on the nuts and bolts of the new ball joints.
Are you just replacing the ball joints and not the control arm bushings? How big of a job are you doing? Might as well do it all. If you do, remember to count the alignment shims that are used on either side of the control arms. Replace the same amount of shims when reassembling. You might need a press to R&R the control arm bushings. Head for the alignment shop after all work is done.

 

[Redbob]

Just curious:
What is the coil spring compressor used for?
On a C4, that is?

 

[rrubel]

And if you're going to the trouble of replacing the control arm bushings, go with polyurethane (Energy Suspensions or equivalent). You'll never have to replace them again and you'll have the benefit of a better-handling car.
[RICHR]