Bar's Leak?

[Denney]

My 66 coupe is leaking some oil, and I have come to the conclusion that it is most likely coming from the rear main seal. Untill I have the time to pull the trans and replace the rear main seal (which I know is ultimately the right thing to do), I was wondering if anyone has any experience/suggestions regarding any oil stop leak products (like Bar's Leak) and if there are any drawbacks to using such a product? I figure I will eventually have to replace the seal, just figure if I can put it off (with no harm done) for a while it would be convenient...

 

[JOV]

Stop leak is just a temp repair. What it basicly does , it swells up the seal so it can hopefully reseal, but if the seal is worn-out it will do no good, but on the other hand if it does work remember it is only a temperary fix, because it will leak again.....

 

[JOV]

PS, you lucky owner, I used to own a 66 and wish I still had it

 

[skids]

Depends on how bad it leaks. I used Gold Eagle brand, I think thats the brand, brown bottle. Worked excellent in my winter beater 88 Beretta. But, it's my beater, so mechanic in a can was a good "fix''. In your vette, as in mine also, replace seal. Don't need to pull trans to replace rear seal, unless maybe your leak is coming from cam plug.

 

[studiog]

You have probably already done so but I would make sure the leak isn't running down from anywhere else first. Especially check the rear intake manifold seal & valve cover gaskets in the same area.

 

[Denney]

You have probably already done so but I would make sure the leak isn't running down from anywhere else first. Especially check the rear intake manifold seal & valve cover gaskets in the same area.

I have pretty much ruled out everything on the top side (as in, it isn't coming from the intake, valve covers, breather, etc.) and I know that the oil is dripping from the bottom of the inspection cover. Could be either the cam or the main rear seal, engine had sat for some time before being fired (hence I believe the rear seal is the culprit). Will ultimately swap the seal, but figure if the "Stop Leak" does no harm to any of the seals, figure I would try it first...

 

[Tom Bryant]

I don't think the stop leak will hurt anything and it might put off the repair for a couple months til the winter storage season starts.

All you need to do to replace the rear main seal is remove the inspection cover; drain the oil and remove the oil pan; remove the oil pump and rear main cap. Then take a pice of hard plastic or nylon rod or a thin punch if you are very careful, and gently tap on one end of the seal driving it around the crank and out of the block. Be very careful to avoid any contact with the rear main journal. Liberally oil the new one and slip it back in, tapping it around the crank until it's in place. Replace the other half in the main cap and reinstall the cap and pump and torque to specs.

Now is a good time to install one of those new one pice pan gaskets by Fel Pro. You'll love it. Then the inspection cover and you're done (after you refill the oil).

Tom

 

[studiog]

I don't think the stop leak will hurt anything and it might put off the repair for a couple months til the winter storage season starts.

All you need to do to replace the rear main seal is remove the inspection cover; drain the oil and remove the oil pan; remove the oil pump and rear main cap. Then take a pice of hard plastic or nylon rod or a thin punch if you are very careful, and gently tap on one end of the seal driving it around the crank and out of the block. Be very careful to avoid any contact with the rear main journal. Liberally oil the new one and slip it back in, tapping it around the crank until it's in place. Replace the other half in the main cap and reinstall the cap and pump and torque to specs.

Now is a good time to install one of those new one pice pan gaskets by Fel Pro. You'll love it. Then the inspection cover and you're done (after you refill the oil).

Tom

That one piece pan gasket looks really SWEET!

 

[Tom Bryant]

It is a sweet piece. It has inserts at the bolt holes that keep you from overtightening and distorting the pan rail. All you need is a dab of silicone sealer where the rear main cap and the front timing cover meet the block. It even comes with some gadgets that go in the 4 big bolt holes that hold up the oil pan while you start the rest of the bolts. Extra hands in an envelope without a helpers bad breath in your face. :L

Tom