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Battery Disconnect - What do you guys recommend . . . .

Ron Miller

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2003
Messages
494
Location
Southeast Missouri
Corvette
'66 Auto Mosport Conv, '65 Nass Blue 4-sp Air Cpe
Well, I've decided after 25+ years it may be time to start using a battery disconnect on my cars, you know, older wiring, etc., . . .

I think I'd be better satisfied with the lever or blade type, rather than the knob with the screw, but I never see the lever type advertised, only the knob type. What do you guys use, what is your experience with these, and where do you recommend purchasing?

Thanks for the input,

Ron
cheers2.gif
 
I have the green knob type. It has never given me any problems. The blade type can purchased from JC Whitney.

battery.jpg
 
Thanks Paul. I may try the green knob on one car and the lever type on the other!!

Ron :)
 
Have the lever and it has never been a problem. Got mine at Advance Auto for about $22. Not sure what style is better but when I did my research it seemed a few people had problems with the knobs. Do a search.
 
I've got the knob type but the C3 battery is behind the driver's seat so it's easy to get to when I need it. . .
 
Ron Miller said:
Well, I've decided after 25+ years it may be time to start using a battery disconnect on my cars, you know, older wiring, etc., . . .
Ron
cheers2.gif

The letter carrier just delivered mine today! After reading so much about them I too decided it was time. I found the black knob units (same as green but made in the USA) on eBay, $5.95 each.

The eBay item# is 8003874940 for more info.
battswitch.jpg
 
Here's what I use..It's a bit more exspensive but to me worth it. It uses a "Latching Relay". Push the button once....and it's on..... push the button again once...and it's off. The relay is only active when you press the button. No current drain. I drilled out above the hood release cable pull bracket and mounted the push button their.

http://www.summitracing.com

Search Mfg Painless wiring ..Part No. PRF-30206



:beer
 
Except for maybe using it as a theft deterrant, I don't see the need for one.....perhaps someone can point out what I am missing....I put battery tenders on all the cars and the battery is always charged and not had any problems.....so what am I missing with this?

thanks, Herb
 
firstgear said:
Except for maybe using it as a theft deterrant, I don't see the need for one.....perhaps someone can point out what I am missing....I put battery tenders on all the cars and the battery is always charged and not had any problems.....so what am I missing with this?

thanks, Herb

Well some us don't have tenders on our cars all the time. I have Optima batteries in both Vettes and drive them about every 1 to 2 weeks, The Batteries are always start the cars.

I use the cut off switch as a precaution..on the 65. The 86 does not have a Kill circuit due to he fact that it has a Puter. But..And a Big But...I don't like the idea of leaving the battery connected on the 65. It's 1965 Tech and I don't trust the original harness inside the car .

I fell much better with the power off and not present in my wiring. It's their waiting to be turned on at the ignition switch. Something about that keeps me up at night. I'd rather power down the harness while I count sheep..

:beer
 
I store my vett in Florida and use the green knob disconnect . It gets driven at least once a month in the winter but i like to know it's charged and ready to go with just a twist.
 
Thanks, guys!! You've given me a lot of useful information, things to consider. These forums are a real source of help for these older 'vettes.

I think I may try the green knob on my infrequent driver, and the lever type on the daily driver. I've already ordered one knob, gonna try it & see how it works before deciding for certain on the second one.

(Also like the comments regarding the relay type or the manually switched rotary switches, may look further into one of these if I can figure a good convenient place to mount it).

Thanks again, and keep the comments coming if you've had any experience with any of these!

Ron
 
battery disconect

Check out a boat shop for an explosion proof battery cutoff switch. Boats use cutoff switches when refueling. I split the battery cable and mounted mine on the passenger side firewall for easy access from the driver's seat. Good selection of styles and quality. Was a life saver once and that is better than saying, " yeah, I used to have a 63 FI coupe but it burned up".
 
Ok so now we have the styles down.

I have heard a ton of folks suggest the cut off on the ground.it only makes better sence for it to be on the B+ positive side.

Could some one explain the therory on why its suggested on the - negitive side
 
IH2LOSE said:
Ok so now we have the styles down.

I have heard a ton of folks suggest the cut off on the ground.it only makes better sence for it to be on the B+ positive side.

Could some one explain the therory on why its suggested on the - negitive side

a completed circuit is a completed citcuit, but it is true that if you have a knife switch which is more exposed, the chances of accidentally brushing a tool against it and grounding it are higher, so I can see the wisdom for negative side cut off switch


oh, I am green knob guy, never had any problem and I take the knob with me if parked in a spooky place overnight.
 
jjmish said:
Check out a boat shop for an explosion proof battery cutoff switch. Boats use cutoff switches when refueling. I split the battery cable and mounted mine on the passenger side firewall for easy access from the driver's seat. Good selection of styles and quality. Was a life saver once and that is better than saying, " yeah, I used to have a 63 FI coupe but it burned up".

Now that's creative and interesting, too. Do you have any photos of the installation you can post?

Ron :cool
 
IH2LOSE said:
Ok so now we have the styles down.

I have heard a ton of folks suggest the cut off on the ground.it only makes better sence for it to be on the B+ positive side.

Could some one explain the therory on why its suggested on the - negitive side

Larry, the logic is this - if you put the switch on the negative terminal, when the switch is open, it removes all ground potential from the entire car and makes it impossible to create a dead short anywhere except directly between the two battery posts; even if you drop a wrench and one end hits the positive terminal and the other end hits the engine, nothing will happen. If you put the switch on the positive terminal, it will kill power to the car's wiring, but the ground is still there; if you drop that wrench the same way, you'll have a really fabulous dead short/sparks/red-hot wrench. Electrically, it makes no difference which post you put it on.
:beer
 
Two questions what about the radio preset and Navigation in the C-6, how will that effect the memory?
 
cutoff switch

Ron, no digital camera available. The positive cable is split and the switch is in line with the heater hose inlets just below where the firewall begins to slant. The top left corner of the carpet just covers the switch on the inside.

West Marine is local boat shop chain store but I'm sure you can find a style to meet your needs at any good boat shop. Heard of some problems with the green switches due to variable quality. You can also get a marine terminal adapter which bolts to the battery post or side terminal and has a threaded stud to which you can attach a battery cable with an appropriate terminal. Use a large wing nut or some type of threaded knob to easily unscrew and free the cable. Real cheap solution.
 
jjmish said:
Ron, no digital camera available. The positive cable is split and the switch is in line with the heater hose inlets just below where the firewall begins to slant. The top left corner of the carpet just covers the switch on the inside.

West Marine is local boat shop chain store but I'm sure you can find a style to meet your needs at any good boat shop. Heard of some problems with the green switches due to variable quality. You can also get a marine terminal adapter which bolts to the battery post or side terminal and has a threaded stud to which you can attach a battery cable with an appropriate terminal. Use a large wing nut or some type of threaded knob to easily unscrew and free the cable. Real cheap solution.

Thanks for the info!! I'll look into it.

Ron
 
coolhandluke said:
Two questions what about the radio preset and Navigation in the C-6, how will that effect the memory?

There's a model of the green knob device that has a separate fused lead that bypasses the switch contacts specifically to maintain the "keep-alive" memories in computer cars.
:beer
 

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