Battery Issue

[hcbph]

hcbph that sounds like a good idea when you say new cables did you buy two new negative battery cables to run from the block to the switch and then to the battery and where did you mount the switch and was the switch installed in a typical metal electrical box? any info or parts numbers ect. on how I can set this up would be appreciated and thanks for the info

also you speak of a 250 amp IIRC Switch 250 amps sounds pretty large for a car then again I don't know lol should that be 250 volts at 16amp switch maybe? sorry i'm no mechanic here just trying to figure out what this means and what does IIRC stand for can you recommend a switch and cable to use for this maybe a website and or part or model number? thanks again

The one picture shows what I tried (like some questioned) for a year or so. One day while driving, it snapped off between battery and the screw to cut off current in the middle of the highway.
I then started asking questions and including Summit, came to the conclusion a 250 amp cutoff would be more than sufficient for my needs. There's an area right below the drivers headlight that already had two 10mm IIRC bungs in the frame and an open space. I made the black plate to fit in the area and bolt to the frame. I then took some Styrofoam and taped it to the plate and worked the headlights to insure they wouldn't catch on the switch, once that was confirmed I drilled the plate to accept the L bracket to mount the switch to. The cable between the block and the switch IIRC is a 2 gauge and has eyelets on both ends. The one between the switch and the battery IIRC is a 4 gauge as that was all I could find in the length I needed. I unhooked the existing negative cable and taped it up under the hood but left it on just-in-case. New cable goes from the block to the switch plus I added another ground strap from the frame to that lug. Other cable goes from the other lug to the battery. Turn the handle 1/4 turn and it engages or disengages the switch.

The cables I got the one made up by a shop that does them for boats IIRC and other one with the end on it for the battery I found online. I had to look for them and eventually found what I wanted.

I've had zero issues with this setup. If I ever do in a pinch all I have to do is unhook the new cable from the battery and hook the original one back on. Like I said, I did some checking before buying the parts and the 250 amp cutoff switch based on the info I got back was sufficient for my needs and so far it has worked without any issues.

 

[Toms007]

I will certainly check out the battery tender, thanks

Sorry, been really busy......I bought a “Battery Tender” from Amazon.com. I believe this I’d the updated version of the one I have...

Amazon.com: Battery Tender Plus 021-0128, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger is a Smart Charger, it will Fully Charge and Maintain a Battery at Proper Storage Voltage without the Damaging Effects Caused by Trickle Chargers: Automotive

and this connector

Amazon.com: Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug: Automotive

 

[Toms007]

I will certainly check out the battery tender, thanks

Sorry, been really busy......I bought a “Battery Tender” from Amazon.com. I believe this I’d the updated version of the one I have...

Amazon.com: Battery Tender Plus 021-0128, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger is a Smart Charger, it will Fully Charge and Maintain a Battery at Proper Storage Voltage without the Damaging Effects Caused by Trickle Chargers: Automotive

and this connector

Amazon.com: Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug: Automotive

 

[Hib Halverson]

The right way to address this problem

1) Test the electrical system for a draw. If you have one, repair as necessary.

2) Test the battery. Replace as necessary.

3) Do not install a kill switch. Once you repair a draw and have a good battery, buy a smart battery charger. That will easily keep the battery charged.

With a kill switch on an 86, when you turn it off, ECM memory is erased. All drivability learning is erased.

 

[Jessica19699]

The right way to address this problem

1) Test the electrical system for a draw. If you have one, repair as necessary.

2) Test the battery. Replace as necessary.

3) Do not install a kill switch. Once you repair a draw and have a good battery, buy a smart battery charger. That will easily keep the battery charged.

With a kill switch on an 86, when you turn it off, ECM memory is erased. All drivability learning is erased.

Hib thanks for the reply I just replaced my battery and I cant do a battery tender cause I don't have a garage and the weather would mess the charger up non the less it could get stolen, I'm not sure if it matters or not but I see where u motioned a 86 if you are referring to my year of vehicle I have a 92

 

[kpic]

I simply keep the battery charged with what is called a float charger.

The more modern the car; the more they may draw when shut off.. A float charger the battery charged.

How to Find and Stop Car Battery Drains – DIY Car Battery Tests

Interesting article except I'm lazy and use a float charger. No matter if we are gone for a few days or a few weeks; turn the key and it starts..

 

[Jessica19699]

So I'm thinking after doing some research that my battery drain may be coming from my after market alarm system, I'm not a mechanic for sure and this is only speculation here but I noticed with my alarm system I can start and turn off my car and pop the back hatch with the key fob without the key even being in the ignition it would seem to me that in order to be able to do that the alarm system module that's mounted under the dash that was installed would have to retain some kind of power source even when the car is off in order for that feature to work, I notice that when I activate the alarm the flashing light blinks and on off for notification that the alarm is set I stopped activating the alarm while the car is home thinking that could be draining the battery as well but I am thinking the system in whole still draws power off the battery while the car is off, my aftermarket stereo and power amp and sub woofer I'm not thinking is the issue cause they installed a remote switch line on it to turn the amp off when the car isn't on(maybe I'm wrong about it killing all the power) anyway I just wanted to post this theory of mine not sure if it is true or not but it kind of makes sense to me anyway, I since then took the negative terminal off the battery while the car isn't being used