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Question: Best COld Air Induction System?

I took a quick look at MidAmerica to see what sort of cold air inlets are available for the early C4 and only found one available through them - the SLP package.
Ecklers has a different system from BPP.
That may limit your options.

Do you have a particular cold air package in mind that you want an opinion about?
 
Best Cold Air Induction System?

I took a quick look at MidAmerica to see what sort of cold air inlets are available for the early C4 and only found one available through them - the SLP package.
Ecklers has a different system from BPP.
That may limit your options.

Do you have a particular cold air package in mind that you want an opinion about?

My initial thought was K&N only because of all the advertising they do. Then I read in another thread about the SPP "Claw" which I have been unable to find. Since I am having a total rebuild done, with "performance enhancements," I want to make sure I can get enough air in to take advantage of the new heads, etc.
 
Old New Owner,
You might find this article interesting:
1996 Corvette LT1 Engine Buildup - Vette Magazine

PS
I don't want to start another 160 degree thermostat debate. ;)
Flow straighters would be a more interesting debate. ;LOL

Good stuff! I'm having a total rebuild done so I now have some additional questions to ask! With the new heads I want to make sure enough air gets in to get as much performance as I can for the money.
 
Good stuff! I'm having a total rebuild done so I now have some additional questions to ask! With the new heads I want to make sure enough air gets in to get as much performance as I can for the money.
What are you having done?

"New heads" rebuilt or flowed?
 
What are you having done?

"New heads" rebuilt or flowed?

I have lower end problems so I'm replacing the crank and bearings stroking the engine to 383. After that I have to see what the budget allows. Likely, new pistons, heads, cam and air induction (not sure what that scope will be, at least a new throttle body, probably more). We'll also consider adjustable fuel pressure and modified exhaust.
 
There is a lot of changes required; are you buying a kit or using a 400 crankshaft? That requires turning journals down to 350 size and re-balancing. There is a lot of "stuff" which needs to be done.

DrDyno,
Cool mod!
 
There is a lot of changes required; are you buying a kit or using a 400 crankshaft? That requires turning journals down to 350 size and re-balancing. There is a lot of "stuff" which needs to be done.

DrDyno,
Cool mod!

I am having an engine builder do the work and we haven't decided on the scope yet (budgetary constraints). I am totally out of my league in specifying all the stuff that needs to be done so I have to depend on the builder. I know just enough to know that I don't know nearly enough. We will finalize the scope after he has the engine apart and we know what we are dealing with. The car performed very well so I suspect that a previous owner had some work done but I don't know what, maybe none!
 
I promise you'll love the torque increase for a 383. Hopefully, your builder is honest and experienced enough to not just sell you a bunch of over-hyped parts; just those that will work on this (balanced) build. By balanced, I mean choosing effective pieces for this 'air pump' Some will recommend a huge TB or this and that, but better results come from a good builder and sticking to his ONE formula, vs a potpourri of ideas.

Some might think the TB on my 409 is too small, but one ride to redline will convince them otherwise. BTW, I spent plenty on an adjustable FPR only to set it at factory pressure. Opinions vary with some claiming better spray patterns with smaller injectors and higher pressures while other disagree. There are web sources for choosing injector size, but sizing is dictated by engine HP.

Good, ceramic coated headers will improve the exhaust, no matter what; other things can be delayed as funds are available. Remember, that a custom chip will make or break your end result so start looking for a reputable source and earmark that cash.

I started my redo where you are, with aspecific goals for power and use, plus almost no experience in choosing this cam or that intake. By doing the above, my car is a LOT of fun. One item I considered was the "ram air" system, which was pricey, required plenty of cutting, but was decried my my Corvette expert as a waste of money.

I did install the Big Mouth and modified its mount to beef up that section of the car, plus get more cool air under the entire hood. Once the hot air had an exit route, it helps many things, including hot performance.
 
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WhalePirot
Longer stroke = longer rod and same as any longer lever yields more torque. If the stroke gets too radical, the higher piston speeds result which can make the rings flutter.

My 66 Coupe had a variety of engines (327-300, 350-370, 427 rectangular port, and the 350 stroked). My fondest memories are the stroked 350. I might have developed a liking for the 427; but it was a j/y engine which took a hard hit; locked up doing the city wide speed limit.
The 383 was a rip, Lunati, dual feed with the gears on the choke side, 4.56 in street trim with the pipes up; it ran in the high 11s. Mouse engines were and are very cool.

I really don't want to kill the mpg or the drive ability of the car. Plus passing smog is required; so this time F/I is the chosen road. However, I still cherish the sound of a "real" cam and the smell of unburnt hydrocarbons. :thumb


Old New Owner
Cars can become a bottomless pit to throw money into; trust me, I know. Go to the drag strip to see what works and ask them. Some builders are great with GM and others another brand. As mistakes are pricey, choose wisely.
 
Don't know if it qualify's as the "best", but I am very happy with the SLP Tri-pod intake I put on my 96 LT1. We installed it while the car was hooked up to the dyno, and it showed 17 h.p. increase alone.:thumb
 
Don't know if it qualify's as the "best", but I am very happy with the SLP Tri-pod intake I put on my 96 LT1. We installed it while the car was hooked up to the dyno, and it showed 17 h.p. increase alone.:thumb

This is interesting here, IS...

Some guys on the Z boards didn't like SLP 3x filter setup, saying no 'noticeable' increase, but the dyno don't lie.

Only thing I could think of was that it's pulling hot air from INside engine compartment.

Do you think that if you could draw OUTside air, you'd have gotten closer to 20 hp boost???
 

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