Important! Big problem with my 92 Corvette, does not start! Security lights blinking! HELP!! SOS

[Bestdavidd]

Hello Everybody!!!!!

I have a question! And my question and my story is that:

I own a 1992 Chevrolet Corvette, manual transmission, with a problem. The car starts when he wants! I bought the car in that condition, but when i bought the car, if the car does not start, you open the hood and touch the computer of the car once or twice and the car starts fine. Thats happened when you try to turn on the car like 2 or 3 minutes later before turn off the car, if you turn on the car like 10 or 15 or more time before you turn off, the car always starts!

I removed the old stereo of the car, was a DVD player with a screen of dvd, i removed that because doesnt work. When i removed that simply the car doesnt start, even if you touch the computer or do wathever you want, NEVER starts! The cars has more than 1 week and dont start, and myself every day try to start the car and no results.

Reading and reading in internet, i have tried today ``vats bypass´´, the ohms of my key was 6040, im in 12. I went to an electronic store, and i didint find a resistor with that ohms, so i buyed 2 that gives me 5.800ohms, thats the low in my 12 scale:

Number 12
Nominal: 6040
Low 5798
High 6302

After reading that i thought that i need something between 5798 and 6302, so i thought that 5.800 will be good.
Ok, i arrive to my home and inmediately i install the resistors, i soldered the 2 resistors and i test with my multimeter and perfect! 5.800 ohms, so i soldered that to the 2 cables of the VATS cable behind the dash, and nothing happened, i test the other cable that comes to the key and perfect! 6.040 ohms! So, the car read the key!

The problem, i use my multimeter with the cable that goes to the VATS, and tells me -7.04 (that value does not will be in 0? like when he read the vats goes in 6040 ohms?), i conect the cable with the other cable to the key and tells me -6.76 and i have soldered the 5800 resistor to that with the cable connected and tells me -6.50, so i thought that i need a 297000 ohms resistor to arrive to 6.46 ohms to the vats. I thought that because if you add 11.800ohms (thats the key with 6040 ohms and the 5.800 ohms resistor) and reduces the ohms to the vats in 0.54. And you multiply 0.54x25 and you have 297000ohms, the quantity that you need to convert -7.04 to 6.46ohm.

i soldered 2 resistors of 150k each one and nothing happened, when i connect only 1, the value was on -2200ohms, so i dont understand NOTHING, i thought that with the 2 the number will be 6000ohms, but not! So im going crazy...

So, i think my VATS is ****ed.... and fo that reason tells me a negative value and dont read the key and dont start the car! im not a Engineer in electronics of nothing at all, im just a man thinking to fix my car!

So i wanted to know if somebody can help me to fix my car!

Everything i know is from that forum:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-technical-performance/88349-vats-bypass-tutorial-pics.html

The cables, all is exact to my car, because is the same car, just 3 years older! But nothing changed!

Please im waiting for an answer because i need to fix my car soon!

Thanks a lot Everybody!

if need more information, tell me and i give wathever you want!

 

[Bestdavidd]

Big problem with my 1992 corvette! VATS problem! security ight blinking, HELP!!! SOS!

Hello Everybody!!!!!

I have a question! And my question and my story is that:

I own a 1992 Chevrolet Corvette, manual transmission, with a problem. The car starts when he wants! I bought the car in that condition, but when i bought the car, if the car does not start, you open the hood and touch the computer of the car once or twice and the car starts fine. Thats happened when you try to turn on the car like 2 or 3 minutes later before turn off the car, if you turn on the car like 10 or 15 or more time before you turn off, the car always starts!

I removed the old stereo of the car, was a DVD player with a screen of dvd, i removed that because doesnt work. When i removed that simply the car doesnt start, even if you touch the computer or do wathever you want, NEVER starts! The cars has more than 1 week and dont start, and myself every day try to start the car and no results.

Reading and reading in internet, i have tried today ``vats bypass´´, the ohms of my key was 6040, im in 12. I went to an electronic store, and i didint find a resistor with that ohms, so i buyed 2 that gives me 5.800ohms, thats the low in my 12 scale:

Number 12
Nominal: 6040
Low 5798
High 6302

After reading that i thought that i need something between 5798 and 6302, so i thought that 5.800 will be good.
Ok, i arrive to my home and inmediately i install the resistors, i soldered the 2 resistors and i test with my multimeter and perfect! 5.800 ohms, so i soldered that to the 2 cables of the VATS cable behind the dash, and nothing happened, i test the other cable that comes to the key and perfect! 6.040 ohms! So, the car read the key!

The problem, i use my multimeter with the cable that goes to the VATS, and tells me -7.04 (that value does not will be in 0? like when he read the vats goes in 6040 ohms?), i conect the cable with the other cable to the key and tells me -6.76 and i have soldered the 5800 resistor to that with the cable connected and tells me -6.50, so i thought that i need a 297000 ohms resistor to arrive to 6.46 ohms to the vats. I thought that because if you add 11.800ohms (thats the key with 6040 ohms and the 5.800 ohms resistor) and reduces the ohms to the vats in 0.54. And you multiply 0.54x25 and you have 297000ohms, the quantity that you need to convert -7.04 to 6.46ohm.

i soldered 2 resistors of 150k each one and nothing happened, when i connect only 1, the value was on -2200ohms, so i dont understand NOTHING, i thought that with the 2 the number will be 6000ohms, but not! So im going crazy...

So, i think my VATS is ****ed.... and fo that reason tells me a negative value and dont read the key and dont start the car! im not a Engineer in electronics of nothing at all, im just a man thinking to fix my car!

So i wanted to know if somebody can help me to fix my car!

Everything i know is from that forum:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-technical-performance/88349-vats-bypass-tutorial-pics.html

The cables, all is exact to my car, because is the same car, just 3 years older! But nothing changed!

Please im waiting for an answer because i need to fix my car soon!

Thanks a lot Everybody!

if need more information, tell me and i give wathever you want!​

 

[boomdriver]

Hello Everybody!!!!!

I have a question! And my question and my story is that:

I own a 1992 Chevrolet Corvette, manual transmission, with a problem. The car starts when he wants! I bought the car in that condition, but when i bought the car, if the car does not start, you open the hood and touch the computer of the car once or twice and the car starts fine. Thats happened when you try to turn on the car like 2 or 3 minutes later before turn off the car, if you turn on the car like 10 or 15 or more time before you turn off, the car always starts!

I removed the old stereo of the car, was a DVD player with a screen of dvd, i removed that because doesnt work. When i removed that simply the car doesnt start, even if you touch the computer or do wathever you want, NEVER starts! The cars has more than 1 week and dont start, and myself every day try to start the car and no results.

Reading and reading in internet, i have tried today ``vats bypass´´, the ohms of my key was 6040, im in 12. I went to an electronic store, and i didint find a resistor with that ohms, so i buyed 2 that gives me 5.800ohms, thats the low in my 12 scale:

Number 12
Nominal: 6040
Low 5798
High 6302

After reading that i thought that i need something between 5798 and 6302, so i thought that 5.800 will be good.
Ok, i arrive to my home and inmediately i install the resistors, i soldered the 2 resistors and i test with my multimeter and perfect! 5.800 ohms, so i soldered that to the 2 cables of the VATS cable behind the dash, and nothing happened, i test the other cable that comes to the key and perfect! 6.040 ohms! So, the car read the key!

The problem, i use my multimeter with the cable that goes to the VATS, and tells me -7.04 (that value does not will be in 0? like when he read the vats goes in 6040 ohms?), i conect the cable with the other cable to the key and tells me -6.76 and i have soldered the 5800 resistor to that with the cable connected and tells me -6.50, so i thought that i need a 297000 ohms resistor to arrive to 6.46 ohms to the vats. I thought that because if you add 11.800ohms (thats the key with 6040 ohms and the 5.800 ohms resistor) and reduces the ohms to the vats in 0.54. And you multiply 0.54x25 and you have 297000ohms, the quantity that you need to convert -7.04 to 6.46ohm.

i soldered 2 resistors of 150k each one and nothing happened, when i connect only 1, the value was on -2200ohms, so i dont understand NOTHING, i thought that with the 2 the number will be 6000ohms, but not! So im going crazy...

So, i think my VATS is ****ed.... and fo that reason tells me a negative value and dont read the key and dont start the car! im not a Engineer in electronics of nothing at all, im just a man thinking to fix my car!

So i wanted to know if somebody can help me to fix my car!

Everything i know is from that forum:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c4-technical-performance/88349-vats-bypass-tutorial-pics.html

The cables, all is exact to my car, because is the same car, just 3 years older! But nothing changed!

Please im waiting for an answer because i need to fix my car soon!

Thanks a lot Everybody!

if need more information, tell me and i give wathever you want!

HUH ????:confused

 

[Bestdavidd]

HUH ????:confused

i need somebody that solve that problem and helps me, im not the first with that problem, i see a lot of corvettes and another general motors cars with that problem, so, i need somebody with experience that helps me to fix it, do you have it?

 

[John Robinson]

Check all the grounds and clean them. Stop throwing resisters at the problem. The fact that you could get the car to start by touching the ecm tells me the ground from the ecm is bad. The ECM is a ground sensitive system. On the passenger side of the car are two grounds you can see on the frame rails. On the drivers side there are those two grounds but also behind the battery (you will have to remove the battery to get to them) there are two more grounds. On the drivers side of car on the bell housing is a stud with several wires on it that are all ground wires. One of those should be a flat braided ground wire which is the ground for the ecm. The grounds on the bell housing can be accessed by jacking the car up and putting on jack stands or better still if you have access to a car lift. After you clean all of the grounds and before you try to start the car remove all the resisters before you fry the ecm.

Since the car is a manual have you checked the dead man switch on the clutch pedal. If it is not properly adjusted or if the plastic adjuster is broken then you will not be able to start the car because the safety circuit is not activated.

 

[toptechx6]

HUH ????:confused

I agree. First of all you should specify what you mean by won't start. If the starter does not crank the engine I would start by fully charging the battery and making sure the cables are clean and tight. Since the problem started when you removed the old stereo another possibility is that you accidentally disturbed the connection between the CCM and ECM.
If on the other hand it will crank but the engine does not fire I would try rapping on the ECM it may have a loose internal connection preventing injector pulse or spark, good luck.

 

[vetteoz]

The car starts when he wants!

Won't crank over or fire up ; big difference

you open the hood and touch the computer of the car once or twice and the car starts fine.

Sounds like a bad connection at the computer

The problem, i use my multimeter with the cable that goes to the VATS, and tells me -7.04

You don't measure TO VATS ; all that is doing is measuring the circuit inside VATS which is irrelevant

So, i think my VATS is ****ed.... and dont start the car!

In your car VATS is part of the CCM , not a seperate module as on earlier cars ;
You may have other problems .There are CCM faults that will prevent the engine starting and no amount of resistors will do anything to bypass.

Have you pulled the CCM codes?
See
http://www.corvette-guru.com/uploads/smartsection/3_CCMCodePull.pdf

Highly likely you have the common Code 41 where the ECM is not talking to the CCM so it can't get the fuel enable signal needed for engine to fire up

 

[vetteoz]

i need somebody that solve that problem

Only ask a question in ONE PLACE.

Makes it too hard to keep up with what is being said when running on more than one page
This is a TECH question so it shouldn't be in General Dept

i need somebody with experience that helps me to fix it, do you have it?

See your other post

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...urity-ight-blinking-help-sos.html#post1063387

 

[vetteboy86]

Only ask a question in ONE PLACE.

Threads merged. Temporary redirect left in the general section.

 

[Bestdavidd]

Check all the grounds and clean them. Stop throwing resisters at the problem. The fact that you could get the car to start by touching the ecm tells me the ground from the ecm is bad. The ECM is a ground sensitive system. On the passenger side of the car are two grounds you can see on the frame rails. On the drivers side there are those two grounds but also behind the battery (you will have to remove the battery to get to them) there are two more grounds. On the drivers side of car on the bell housing is a stud with several wires on it that are all ground wires. One of those should be a flat braided ground wire which is the ground for the ecm. The grounds on the bell housing can be accessed by jacking the car up and putting on jack stands or better still if you have access to a car lift. After you clean all of the grounds and before you try to start the car remove all the resisters before you fry the ecm.

Since the car is a manual have you checked the dead man switch on the clutch pedal. If it is not properly adjusted or if the plastic adjuster is broken then you will not be able to start the car because the safety circuit is not activated.

thank you very much for your time John, ok, sorry for that.

the engine of the car moves, but dont start, that means the starter is good, security lights blinks and dont start, in cases security light is on, and dont blinks, only is ON and the cluster says SECURITY in yellow, when i close the door the security light goes off.

today is night, and im just arriving from work, tomorrow i will check every ground and everything you tell me, and i hope the problem will be fixed!

Another important quote:

Previous owner has installed a new stereo with a dvd screen and that stuff, and he tells me that when he install that thing the car starts with the problem ´´no start and blinks security light´´, so, the stupid who installed the stereo of the car has touched something and i dont know why.

Another quote: the stereo of the car sounded bad, like interferences, even when i put a cd in, the dvd screen was damaged, and once in the highway, the stereo just turn off, i dont care and a few seconds later the stereo was burned and leave all the cabin of the car full of smoke, the stereo just burned up! I send the player to a specialist and told me I had burned outputs, so its a bad contact between the cables of the speakers, so tomorrow i will check that too, because i hace connected the stereo a few minutes and the stereo hears good, the speakers sounds grate and everything perfect! but when i hear 2 more songs starts with the same problem, sounds bad and the stereo was too much hot, i have disconected the stereo, having dinner and im right here now, writing about that car that is a problem to me right now!

Another interesting quote, when the stereo was burned, i was using my corvette daily with no stereo! with my ipod to listening music with my earphones! and the car only shows to me the problem with no start 3 times! only 3 times and a few seconds later the car stars fine!

So... heres all the information, maybe was a stupid thing, i dont know, but here more than 10 mechanics does cant solve the problem, and i, i hope to fix it, because my mechanics dont speak english, i do (a little unwell like you can read, but i take a lot of classes and i love english), and i have the great idea to join in that forum to talk about corvettes! And i like it! I will be here for a long time.

Every problem i fix with my car i will post here, and i hope the people here do the same thing to fix our corvettes and loves it!

Im more a man that likes german cars, like BMW and Mercedes, and i had a lot of BMW and Mercedes, i want to prove with american cars to know that, and i love it when the car starts fine, and i hate my car when does not start! this is my first corvette, and im very dissapointed with that problem, i just dont understand, i think VATS will be better, i think GM engineers dont do right that evil things called VATS....

 

[Bestdavidd]

I agree. First of all you should specify what you mean by won't start. If the starter does not crank the engine I would start by fully charging the battery and making sure the cables are clean and tight. Since the problem started when you removed the old stereo another possibility is that you accidentally disturbed the connection between the CCM and ECM.
If on the other hand it will crank but the engine does not fire I would try rapping on the ECM it may have a loose internal connection preventing injector pulse or spark, good luck.

sorry, but, what is ccm and ecm? i dont know whats that, and where are located! I see that 2 cables are loose, but dont have another cable with the same color or specifications to connect, to i havent worried about that, if you want, i can take some pictures to you see that you need to see, only tell me that and i will do that!

 

[Bestdavidd]

Won't crank over or fire up ; big difference


Sounds like a bad connection at the computer


You don't measure TO VATS ; all that is doing is measuring the circuit inside VATS which is irrelevant


In your car VATS is part of the CCM , not a seperate module as on earlier cars ;
You may have other problems .There are CCM faults that will prevent the engine starting and no amount of resistors will do anything to bypass.

Have you pulled the CCM codes?
See
http://www.corvette-guru.com/uploads/smartsection/3_CCMCodePull.pdf

Highly likely you have the common Code 41 where the ECM is not talking to the CCM so it can't get the fuel enable signal needed for engine to fire up

Worst case you can get a $25 device (VATS Bypass )

Baker Electronix - GM VATS Bypass

that wires direct to the Computer and gives the required signal to enable the injectors to be fired. (Requires bypassing the starter relay controlled by VATS also)

Won't solve other CCM related problems but will allow car to start

WOW man! that impressed me a looooot!

you can read the error codes of the car without a computer scaning tool? THAT TOO AMAZING BRO!!! i cant believe it! Good designed car! thats too much good to be true, and its true! wow... im liking american cars more than yesterday... hehehe.

tomorrow i will test everything i can! and in the weekend, i will test EVERYTHING! I will dedicate my al weekend to my corvette, like 2 weekends later, and i cant start my car! my car has more than 2 weeks and just dont start!

Something that i forgot to say, when the car does not start, the needle of the oil pressure moves erraticaly, when i try to turn on the car and the engine moves, the needle moves that is working fine and telling me the oil pressure of the car, but when i only pass the switch, it moves alone! so i dont know that to think, im not a mechanic, im not an electrician, im just a man who wants to fix his car! And i like to learn and i like to fix my things.

thanks everybody for the help! if need pics, or anything! just tell me and i will do that!

or if need more information, i will do that!

When i test everything that you post here and John too and the others (thanks everbody) i will post here my results INMEDIATELY!

Another time, THANKS EVERYBODY FOR THE HELP! I really appreciate the help so much, and im loving that forum and that web site and his people!

 

[John Robinson]

Ok here is what the CCM and ECM are

CCM = Central Control Module = It is located under the dash inside the car

ECM = Engine Control Module = It is located above the battery.

They are basically mini computers.

Before you proceed any farther if I understand correctly you are telling us that the radio had a smoking melt down after a couple of min. of being on and became very hot. Is that right?__________

I believe you said that the car ran fine until you tried to use the radio and then the problems started. Is that right__________

As a first test you might remove the fuse to the radio and see if the car will start. If it does that will tell you that the problem is in the radio wiring or radio. By pulling that fuse you will also disable the PKE (Passive Key less Entry) but that will not keep the car from starting.

As a side note here If in fact the radio did get hot and smoke then the radio fuse should be blown if it isn't than whoever put in the radio has done something to bypass it and again it should be completely removed. Do not install a new radio if that is the case until you find out what was done to the wiring to it

Next I believe the engine cranks over but does not start. Is that right____________

Have you checked all the fuses in the fuse block__________

When you clean the grounds and have the battery out to get to the ones behind it check the fuses in the big fuse block next to the battery.

 

[Schrade]

Are you using a translator in your computer? How is your English?

'Touching' the computer to start the car has to stop, for proper diagnostics. Static electricity may close a circuit that is open, and which is not supposed to be open, ESPECIALLY is you are in a dry climate, like the Andes.

Is it the case EVERY TIME, that when the car does NOT start, the motor DOES turn over?

Previous owner has installed a new stereo with a dvd screen and that stuff, and he tells me...

Forget EVERYTHING that the previous owner 'says'.

Pull the fuse to the radio. That circuit is not necessary to diagnose a starting problem. Depending on how the previous owner wired in the aftermarket radio, that could be the problem.

I see that 2 cables are loose, but dont have another cable with the same color or specifications to connect, to i havent worried about that, if you want, i can take some pictures to you see that you need to see, only tell me that and i will do that!

Pictures are GOOD; post up pictures for starters of the 2 loose cables.

Do you have a multimeter (voltmeter)?

How old are you? What is your education level? We need to know these things, to better communicate at your level...

 

[vetteoz]

Previous owner has installed a new stereo with a dvd screen and that stuff, and he tells me that when he install that thing the car starts with the problem ´´no start and blinks security light´´, so, the stupid who installed the stereo of the car has touched something and i dont know why.

installing a aftermarket stereo ( or removing it ) will nearly always throw a code because the CCM is not seeing the certain voltage
on the stereo dimming circuit that it sees with stock stereo; hense it puts a code up

See Pg 6 ,
#11 in the CCM link I posted

 

[John Robinson]

Hopefully he will respond with answers to my questions so we can begin to pinpoint what he is trying to convey with his limited but commendable use of the English language. As he stated earlier he is seeking our help and I am sure that it is just as hard for him to fully understand what we are saying as it is for us to understand him. I will try to be as much help as possible and will try to keep my advice as non technical as possible.

 

[vetteoz]

so we can begin to pinpoint what he is trying to convey with his limited but commendable use of the English language. .

He appears to be doing fine.
He has searched the net and come up with VATS as giving the problem he has .
He has tried the resistor fix which works on the earlier cars but as he has a late car then the CCM and it's well documented problems comes into play

As well as your suggestions ,he needs to pull the codes and see if there is a problem with a input to the CCM or data to ECM from CCM

 

[Bestdavidd]

Hopefully he will respond with answers to my questions so we can begin to pinpoint what he is trying to convey with his limited but commendable use of the English language. As he stated earlier he is seeking our help and I am sure that it is just as hard for him to fully understand what we are saying as it is for us to understand him. I will try to be as much help as possible and will try to keep my advice as non technical as possible.

thanks John but i understand every word you say! and every word that everybody say! its no hard to me. OK, i have checked all grounds and its good, but i have on question, the ground that its on the battery, its connected to the negative on the battery, and goes to the chasis, that cable touched the battery of the car and that cable has melted the space plastic of the battery that the cable touched. My mechanic tells me that its happening because i tried a lot starting the car, and that cable its too hot because goes to the starter, i dont know, but that cable of gound its connected to the negative of the battery, if somebody knows when the cables goes originally, please tell me. :eyerole

Another thing, i have checked the cables of the Stereo, and i got pissed.....ad a lot of cables are cutted, but nothing inusual, only mistake i seen is the cables of the speakers was connected to the old ones.

I seen a very special thing... the stereo of the car (the original one) was connected to the computer that its on the passenger side in the dash, so... if you touch the stereo and change it, and you dont know how to doit well, you will have problems... and i have that problems! :confused

I sent the computers (VATS and the computer of the car) to check with a specialist, and on monday he will bring that to me and i will continue testing.

If somebody need pics, i can take some pics and post here. Of the cables and the disaster here!

Another thing, i cant find the cables of the light of the pedals, and thats not working because of that.

 

[boomdriver]

thanks John but i understand every word you say! and every word that everybody say! its no hard to me. OK, i have checked all grounds and its good, but i have on question, the ground that its on the battery, its connected to the negative on the battery, and goes to the chasis, that cable touched the battery of the car and that cable has melted the space plastic of the battery that the cable touched. My mechanic tells me that its happening because i tried a lot starting the car, and that cable its too hot because goes to the starter, i dont know, but that cable of gound its connected to the negative of the battery, if somebody knows when the cables goes originally, please tell me. :eyerole

Another thing, i have checked the cables of the Stereo, and i got pissed.....ad a lot of cables are cutted, but nothing inusual, only mistake i seen is the cables of the speakers was connected to the old ones.

I seen a very special thing... the stereo of the car (the original one) was connected to the computer that its on the passenger side in the dash, so... if you touch the stereo and change it, and you dont know how to doit well, you will have problems... and i have that problems! :confused

I sent the computers (VATS and the computer of the car) to check with a specialist, and on monday he will bring that to me and i will continue testing.

If somebody need pics, i can take some pics and post here. Of the cables and the disaster here!

Another thing, i cant find the cables of the light of the pedals, and thats not working because of that.

I admire your effort and the work that you;re doing..

The ground wires that we want you to look at are the small wires from the main harness that connect to the frame in several different places. One VERY important place is the driver side of the engine, on the side of the block OR on the trans bellhousing where there will be 4 or 5 wires bolted to the trans or the block. Near there you should also see the small strap cable from frame to engine block.

The melted battery cable is coming from the starter turning too long. Only crank the starter for 3 seconds at a time...the longer it turns the more heat builds in the battery cables. The danger from this comes from cables not insulated touching other things that are opposite. Even the neg cable.

I think the VATS is OK, that is just what everybody blames when the car will not start. It is usually something else, but they always blame VATS because nobody understands what it is and how it works.

The more you describe this beautiful wiring job that somebody did to this poor car, the more it sounds like an ECM problem. Those are easy to replace, so hopefully the mechanic will tell you that is the problem.

The rest of the wiring???
A replacement wire harness sells for around $800 (or more) for a used one. It sure sounds like your car is a good candidate for one...

The ECM controls the engine with very exact voltage and sensor information. Levels of resistance are measured, exact voltage is known and used as a reference. The ECM and its wires are like your brain and the nerves in your body. You cannot go cutting into them and expect the brain to make your leg move or understand why it won't move anymore.:ugh

The ECM is about the worst place for a stereo installer to hook up for power...must have been his first day. That is probably where the trouble started...long before you ever got the car. Another thing to inspect is the fuse block backside. There are many many wires there that must be in good order. The front side is just for fuses...the backside is where the action is.

The pedal lights? you mean the floor lights? that is a small plug that only fits the light bulb in the floor panel. The driver side and passenger side are the same. You should have a small light bulb in the trim panel over the pedals. If that panel is gone,. then the missing wire for it has been stuffed up in the harness somewhere..

If you mean brake light wire, or switch, you will need an electrical drawing to see where that runs. It is part of a few other things. It is also one that has issues in the back of the fuse panel.

Good luck with the mechanic and the ECM test. Hopefully this will fix it and end your problems.

 

[vetteoz]

the more it sounds like an ECM problem. Those are easy to replace,

If you can find one :ugh
92/93 LT1 has unique ECM .

Long time unavailable new from GM and few used ones around ( for stupid $$$ when they are )
Used one for sale on CF now $300
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-...775-f-s-92-93-lt1-ecm-w-eprom-16159278-a.html

Rebuilt ( exchange ) is only option and from some accounts, guys have had more problems with the rebuilt ones than they had originally.