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Block Preppin


Motor head!!!!
Feb 13, 2001
Valencia, CA,USA
88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
So here's my quandry of the day....

Should I

a) Wait till the machine shop opens tommorow to have my block hot tanked ( which the ONLY reason I need it tanked is to remove the two tone chevy blue/orange combo.

b)Roll the stand outside.. get the buckets of paint stripper and do the nasty thing myself.

I couldn't get it to machine shop yesterday since my 84 bronco's carb decided to ignore the floats instructions to shut off.

Rebuilding the MASSIVE 2 barrel was not that big of a deal.. it was replacing all the hard & soft vac lines that took me 2 hrs.

BTW what should a TOTALLY stripped block weigh? 200/250?

I can feel...the lazy mode...taking OVER

Cant...get...off butttt

Thanks Chris..you gave me the excuse I needed.

Now all I have to do is CON one of the neighbors to help me lift it in the Bronco

hehe, engine weights..

I once bought a 78 Lincoln that had a complete 440 chrysler in the trunk, talk about conning people to help get it out, it took three of us...

Definantly hot tank, or spray, or whatever they do now, beware it will rust QUICK afterwards if they dont put some protective oil spray stuff on it, so have some paint handy..
Hot Tank ... remove flash first

Let the shop hot tank it. Some do a quickie hot pressure wash in cabinet ... if so, ask to first let block stew in tank overnight. Some tanks' solution is so caustic it'll trash the cam bearings when left overnight ... so go ahead & plan on new ones anyway. But before you go to shop, you might wanna do some of your own prep work first. Die grind away excess casting flash (specially around oil returns), remove any & all threaded plugs and freeze plugs. Some of the threaded plugs are VERY tight. Chase all threads both before and after hot tank. When I pulled my 30-year-old motor down, I found casting flash attached that I could pop loose with only finger pressure ... yikes ... don't want that to fall into the soup! Once the block's super clean (lacquer thinner/carb cleaner) & dry, you might consider coating the rougher inside walls of block with "GLYPTAL" ... it's made by GE for use in electric windings. It's a reddish-brown paint-like material that's been used for years in race blocks ... prevents release of sand-cast grit/particles & also aides shedding of oil. It will not fry/bubble/peel/lift/flake if applied to properly cleaned block. Glyptal about $20 a qt at regional GE Supply ... about $25 at Eastwood.
Most of the time they give it back in a bag with nothing on it. If your not doing anything with it, just spray some WD-40 on it for protection..... then use some brake parts cleaner to remove it for painting.
Naked block, mystery 327

So it was a nice day.. neighbors no where to be found.. so I bought a Quart of Jasco paint stripper and had a go at it ( 3 hr's later ) I got 99 percent of the paint off.. all of the crusty head gaskets remains are off. Everything is off the block EXCEPT how do I get the oil bypass mechanism out??????

After cleaning wiping & wd-40 ing I checked all the bores 4.0305 ( which is perfect for my 30 over pistons).

The freeze plugs are all new.

I chased all the threaded holed.

There is a minor crack in one of the bosses for the motor mount on the even side, foward ( need to get that welded )

The top of the block is FLAT no clean up cut needed.

So here's a question

There are 2 little tapped holes( 10/24 or close) near the top of the block between the pair of cylinders, I assume for the plug wire sheilding. Was this exclusive for Corvette's or did Camaro's have em too!?

My two boys did cleanup patrol on the B&M tranny it looks great.. and it's got an aftermarket chrome pan& dipstick, Woo Hoo!
And some pix

Clean front
Clean 2

Mr Clean 3

And what does the dog think about this

All the little 1/4"-20 holes are for the spark plug shields, and there's one 5/16"-18 hole on the R.H. side for the upper attachment of the starter brace. All SB Chevys have all those holes regardless of application. Also one 1/4"-20 hole on each side just forward of the bellhousing area for plug wire supports. Hint: When you replace the two pipe-thread block drain plugs just above the pan rail on each side, use anti-sieze on them so you can remove them later on.

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