Body Prep Question

[Al 65 Sting]

I am still working on the bottom side of my '65 coupe. Within the next 2 months I should be ready to attack the topside. I want to change paint color, from really thick black enamel back to the original white. So what is the best method to remove this elmers glue looking paint? I have heard chemical stripper, sand till my palms bleed and media blasting. But this is the first fibreglass sled I have ever owned and really don't know whats the best way to getter done. What say ye all?

Al

 

[vette]

Chemical strip.

 

[vette rod]

Sanding is the best method. The only thing is it is tricky to do without digging holes (low spots) in the body.

www.pugesekmotorsports.com

 

[Alan76]

I would use an orbital sander keep it flat and follow the the body contuors do the style lines by hand. It will be a lot of work but worth it once you have it sanded to your satisfaction . Prime with a high build primer. then take a flat black paint and dust the surface then block sand the black will sjhow the low spots feather them out and prime again final sand and paint.
Sand Paper grit progression 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600. the higher the number the finer the grit. Chemical stripping is not recomended because its a 50\50 chance of penitrating trough the fiberglass.
hope this helps

Alan

 

[BarryK]

Chemical strip.
My car is in the shop getting new paint as we speak (type) and my bodyman/painter has been specializing in older Vettes for over 30 years. The only method he uses is chemical stripping. It's very messy and a job I don't envy anyone having to do but it seems to be the safest. Just be sure to wipe the body down thoughly afterwards with lacquer thinner to remove any remaining paint and the chemical stripper solvent and than let the body vent any remaining solvent fumes out. usually letting it sit for about 2 weeks is enough to vent the body.

Sanding is also a good method as long as you don't overdo it. If you aren't very careful, oversanding can easily round off many of the feature lines of the car. It's this reason that my guy had to do a lot of extra work on my car because he had to repair many of those feature lines that had been oversanded and rounded off by previous "repair" work on the car.

A lot of people use media blasting and it has the advantage of being much less time consuming but unless the technican uses the correct type of media and is very experienced at what he is doing he can quickly cause serious damage to the body - damage that will require a lot of manhours to repair which will end up being more expensive than the time saved by the media blasting itself.

good luck with your new paint whatever method you choose

 

[IH2LOSE]

Well let me pre requisite this by saying I am not a body man, and have often been called an idiot for different reasons



But let me share with you the problem I am having with my car. See this post.http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66527



Long and short I have been given many reasons for the failure. I am still not absolutely sure of what happened.



Unfortunately I have no answers but I wanted to share the ugly side of a fiberglass car.

 

[BarryK]

and have often been called an idiot for different reasons

you too Larry?
I think I may hold the world's record for being called an idiot.
usually my wife finds some reason to justify calling me that at least 3 or 4 times a week not to mention most other people in this world that know me.............

 

[Al 65 Sting]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm? You guys got me worried now. I was thinking media blasting first. No sand, just plastic beads or wallnut shells. Then chemical strip was my second choice, but I am not looking forward to blisters or that wrinkle paint effect. Me with a DA on fibreglass, now that is a scary thought! Maybe I'll just get out the paint roller and the Glidden's Best exterior paint.

On the upside, my engine is at the machine shop. Building a 383 stroker with Vortec heads & Alum Bow Tie intake. I pulled the auto-tranny out tonight and this weekend I will be degreasing and pressure cleaning the engine compartment and undercarriage. Are we having fun now or what?

Al

 

[IH2LOSE]

Well some more words of advice

I have a 66 also and when the body was done on that,it had one repaint on it.the paint was perfect bud had some stress cracks in it. I wanted a full paint strip and the shop insisted they just block the car.They explained the paint is solid and blocking the car would make it straight as an arrow.Well i knew very little about corvettes at the time and it was agreed they would block the car and make it straight.

Now 5 years latter I realize it was a mistake to straighten the car out.they took all of the original flaws out of the body that gives it that corvette carictor its supposed to have. So blocking it straight was not the best choice for my 66 its straight as an arrow with very sharp body lines that wil cost me points when I finally get the nerve to have it flight judged.

As for the DA I would be afraid to add too many new flaws

Media blasting well i did that and it was very afforurdable but not every one is skilled in media blasting.I was lucky but a fellow local to me had his car destroyed because it was blasted to aggresively with wall nut shells it just opened up every pore in his car and the entire glass was raw and fuzzy

Now on to stripper.This I would say is the way to go,but use it as your supposed to one layer at a time and clean it off completely,dont leave it on too long once the car is naked protect it and keep it dry.And leave it out in the sun prior to primer.

 

[Al 65 Sting]

Thanks for the more in-depth info. I still think stripping is the way I will go. Is there a particular brand made specifically for fibreglass? How does it effect bondo? I have discovered that the nose of my car has been replaced and bonded right through the middle of the wheel wells. I am affraid what I will find under the paint.

Al

 

[vette]

If you use the right stripper you will not have any problems. Captain Lees works great. Or you have to buy one that is ok for fiberglass. The problem is when someone that don't know what they are doing uses the wrong type stripper. Sanding is not a very good way to strip a fiberglass car. Having it blasted is hit or miss. I have seen cars ruined by media blasting. Chemical stripping is not that hard to do if done right. Most Pros will tell you this is the way to go. Sanding can be done but you better be good with a DA sander. It is very easy to ruin body lines and make other problems for your self.I can't tell you how many Vettes I have stripped over the years and have yet to have a problem. Just ask someone that knows before you start something you know nothing about. I would not try build a house cause i don't know what I am doing . cars are no diff. Brian G.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I am not a body guy so I cant recomend the type of material to use.

I do know as a fact once you strip the car what ever bondo is on it MUST come off.

 

[vette]

Yes all filler will have to be redone. If the nose is spliced you may want to to a new upper surround before you paint it.

 

[BarryK]

I agree with Larry (IH2LOSE) and vette. Any bonbo you find must be removed and the repair area redone properly with fiberglass.
After stripping off the paint on my car, we found that during a previous repair(s) someone went a little ( a LOT) crazy with bondo and the entire front of the car from the doors forward was coated in approx 1/8" of bondo - even more on areas of the front fenders where flares had once been installed than later removed. It took my painter over 2 weeks to grind off every bit of the bondo. He wasn't a happy camper having to do all that grinding off of the bondo there was so much on the car but it needed to be done. After the bondo was all removed than he had to go back and redo all the previous repair work all over again properly using fiberglass.Just the bondo removal and the refiberglassing in those areas alone took over a month of work before he could move on to other areas of the car.
It's amazing the things you find and the history you find on a car once you remove all the paint.
Unless you know you have a perfect un-hit body you may be surprised what you will find under the paint. The only good news about "surprises" though is that it allows you to find all these areas and correct them so you know your car is done properly.
The amount of "Bubba Bodywork" on my car was amazing, but at least now we know it's done correctly.
Take your time and make sure you do any bodywork the proper way and you will end up being much happier afterwards and the results will really reward your efforts.

 

[61 Silver]

Al 65 Sting



I will soon be removing the paint from my third Corvette body (63 SWC) and I learn a little more from each attempt. I have received some excellent advise on this forum. I use a fiberglass safe strip and work in small areas. I completely clean the area that I strip with lacquer thinner and then with hot soapy water. I then go over the area again with lacquer thinner. I use a plastic body filler application tool to remove the strip and paint. I have received conflicting advise on the removal of original primer. One view, if it is in very good condition, sand it and use a catalyzed primer to seal it. The other view is to use Scotch Bright pads and stripper and remove the primer clean the stripped area and clean. I feel the most important part of the stripping process is a thorough cleaning of the car after each stripping process.



Hope I have helped!

Ray

 

[Al 65 Sting]

Thanks again guys. I feel much better after todays posts. I will find a fibreglass friendly stripper, take my time, wash and wash and wash etc... I will make a photo journal and keep everyone updated.

Bye the way. I want all of you to know that you are really appreciated. It is at these crossroads with what is really a major concern, that will have a huge impact on how this project will come out, that you guys are coming through for me. I bow to all of you. :BOW

Al

 

[studiog]

I chemically striped my 61. I think it is the way to go as it preserves the fiberglass finish and the lines of the car. I had bondo areas that had to be sanded out and repaired properly but even your fiberglass repairs will need a filler to get a finished surface. Evercoat makes a filler that is made to use on fiberglass. It is important to throughly wash the car with soap and water after striping to neutralize the striper. My body sat for a couple of months after I striped it before it was even primed. I baked it in the sun as much as possible to get all the vapors out. I used a high build 2K primer and a recommended 2K sealer before painting. My paint is only 5 months old but so far no problems.