twiget
Well-known member
I've heard that if you want to replace the Bose head-unit, you have to replace the entire sound system, speakers and all. Is this true? Or is it possible to install parts one at a time?
Jason
Jason
Bose Gold to Aftermarket
- Thread starter twiget
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twiget
Well-known member
Anyone have any guesses?
Jason
Jason
E
Eagle85C4
Guest
The Bose head unit sends a non amplified line level signal to each speaker that drives the speaker amp. If you try to use a regular unit the signal level is amplified and will over drive the Bose amps resulting in melt down of the amps. If you replace the head unit...there are several available with the Bose or Non-Bose option. You can use the existing speakers with a Bose type replacement.
Now normal speakers usually run 8 ohms of resistance, the Bose speakers run around 2 because of the individual amps as they are matched. Ohms law dictates the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance, substituting the values Current (I) =12 vdc/8 ohms, therefore I=1.5 amps current draw, now using the Bose change the 8 into a 2 and I=6 amps. Now this is in a purely dc circuit whereas the speakers actually function on ac, and the formulas are much different and more involved. But this was to show you why it is best not to use just the Bose speakers with out the amps. The current draw will blow them up as the fine wires in the voice coil are not made to withstand the increased current. Actually the varnish on the wires melts from the heat and causes the voice coil to rub against the magnet resulting in a large loss in performance. Hopefully the preceeding is understandable. Any questions...just ask....
Now normal speakers usually run 8 ohms of resistance, the Bose speakers run around 2 because of the individual amps as they are matched. Ohms law dictates the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance, substituting the values Current (I) =12 vdc/8 ohms, therefore I=1.5 amps current draw, now using the Bose change the 8 into a 2 and I=6 amps. Now this is in a purely dc circuit whereas the speakers actually function on ac, and the formulas are much different and more involved. But this was to show you why it is best not to use just the Bose speakers with out the amps. The current draw will blow them up as the fine wires in the voice coil are not made to withstand the increased current. Actually the varnish on the wires melts from the heat and causes the voice coil to rub against the magnet resulting in a large loss in performance. Hopefully the preceeding is understandable. Any questions...just ask....
S
Skant
Guest
I would recommend replacing the whole system all at once. Adapters do exist, but you're getting into mickey mouse territory there.
The bose system is relatively impressive for an OEM stereo (which are generally horrid things). But it's poor compared to a half decent aftermarket setup.
- Skant
The bose system is relatively impressive for an OEM stereo (which are generally horrid things). But it's poor compared to a half decent aftermarket setup.
- Skant
-=Jeff=-
Well-known member
bans25 said:
Not really..
The rears in the 90 later are 6.5" I think fronts are 3.5" with a tweeter..
So you could mount some in the back with no trouble, but the front will require some work
bogus
Active member
This is a hot topic on a number of forums/threads.
Apparently, all the Blose units are dying at the same time!
No surprise there.
Ok... a few items to consider:
1) the 90-96 Vettes are what are called double DIN units. basically, that means they are twice the height of a conventional head unit.
There are a few double din units available, Pioneer and JVC come to mind.
Single din units require a kit. Specialty Autosound Manufacturers in AZ makes a double din conversion. It is kit # GM37. I have one, it is a nice fit. 800-937-6644
2) Speakers are a pain. 6.5" will not adapt easily into the bose enclosures. 5.5" is much easier. anything else requires a lot of custom fabrication. 1/4" MDF would be the best material for this.
I would also recommend a good quality pair of separates. Something like their Pro Series 5.5 would be a good option. Focal and CDT both have nice sounding speakers. I have yet to hear the CDTs, but the buzz is excellent.
3) Removing the bose requires power. Be it from the head or an amp. I am not a fan of head unit amps. I much prefer amps. At this time I am a major fan of JL Audio. I have their 500/5 amp. It is 5 channels. 100x2, 25x2 (rear or tweets) and 250 x 1.
4) Installation. I have yet to find a wireing harness. So you may have to tap directly into the cars wires. If your gonna do an amp, install 4 gauge wire. there is a channel down the drivers side rocker that will hide the wire perfectly.
I drilled a hole in my firewall just above the top of the battery. it is best to remove the battery for this operation! The wire then tucks nicely out of the way.
Also, consider good quality interconnects. I like the new Monster Cable Microconnects. small, and nice. Not cheap, tho... The interconnects can run right up the console to the head.
Use at least 16 gauge speaker wire, better off with 14 and consider 12 gauge for the sub.
As for the dash. There is a number of screws that need to be removed. the shift plate (console) has to come off, as does a set of screws behind where the cig lighter sits. Also, there are screws in the vent.
The reciever module is mounted in the dash. you must remove the glovebox to get to the module.
Finally, you need to get a GM antenna adaptor.
hope this helps.
Apparently, all the Blose units are dying at the same time!
No surprise there.
Ok... a few items to consider:
1) the 90-96 Vettes are what are called double DIN units. basically, that means they are twice the height of a conventional head unit.
There are a few double din units available, Pioneer and JVC come to mind.
Single din units require a kit. Specialty Autosound Manufacturers in AZ makes a double din conversion. It is kit # GM37. I have one, it is a nice fit. 800-937-6644
2) Speakers are a pain. 6.5" will not adapt easily into the bose enclosures. 5.5" is much easier. anything else requires a lot of custom fabrication. 1/4" MDF would be the best material for this.
I would also recommend a good quality pair of separates. Something like their Pro Series 5.5 would be a good option. Focal and CDT both have nice sounding speakers. I have yet to hear the CDTs, but the buzz is excellent.
3) Removing the bose requires power. Be it from the head or an amp. I am not a fan of head unit amps. I much prefer amps. At this time I am a major fan of JL Audio. I have their 500/5 amp. It is 5 channels. 100x2, 25x2 (rear or tweets) and 250 x 1.
4) Installation. I have yet to find a wireing harness. So you may have to tap directly into the cars wires. If your gonna do an amp, install 4 gauge wire. there is a channel down the drivers side rocker that will hide the wire perfectly.
I drilled a hole in my firewall just above the top of the battery. it is best to remove the battery for this operation! The wire then tucks nicely out of the way.
Also, consider good quality interconnects. I like the new Monster Cable Microconnects. small, and nice. Not cheap, tho... The interconnects can run right up the console to the head.
Use at least 16 gauge speaker wire, better off with 14 and consider 12 gauge for the sub.
As for the dash. There is a number of screws that need to be removed. the shift plate (console) has to come off, as does a set of screws behind where the cig lighter sits. Also, there are screws in the vent.
The reciever module is mounted in the dash. you must remove the glovebox to get to the module.
Finally, you need to get a GM antenna adaptor.
hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #9
twiget
Well-known member
Thanks for the replys. My Bose system is not dead just yet. However, it will not play MP3/WMA's much less recieve XM, so I want to upgrade.
It's gonna be a while before I get around to it though, especially since it sounds like I've got to do the entire system.
Thanks for the phone number for the adaptor kit bogus. I was dreading having to make one my self.
Jason
It's gonna be a while before I get around to it though, especially since it sounds like I've got to do the entire system.
Thanks for the phone number for the adaptor kit bogus. I was dreading having to make one my self.
Jason
E
evolution
Guest
Geeze, Yah this is a fun topic.
Personally, Set aside at least a grand and buy a good head unit. Non-amplified prefferably.
For my '84:
Purchased a Pioneer Premiere CD/CDR/MP3 player with front, rear and subwoofer outputs (composite/RCA). This is an amplified unit but I dont use the internal amp.
Purchased a Double-Din to Din plate.
Listened to and carefully chose the following.
2 Boston 4x6s
2 Polk 6x9s
2 JL Audio 4.5s
2 JL Audio 8" subs w/enclosure (I already had the JLs from a previous car. Soon to switch to one Kicker Solobaric 8" L7 wich will fit in storage bay behind drivers seat)
1 MTX 5 channel amp (45x4 125x2 or 250x1 bridged, I think)
1 instalation kit from Monster and one 6' set of Monster composite for subs.
1 spool of 16 guage speaker wire
1 spool of 12 guage speaker wire
Next was about 15 hours of installation. This was comprised mostly of yanking the Blose crap out and removing the amps from the enclosures. The retrofit of the Blose components was a b***h but the time spent was worthwhile. I also had to make new speaker grills for the 6x9s. I simply went to Home Depot and bought some iron screen door mesh. It is 1mil stretched steel and the painted black. It looks perfect. Then all that was left was swapping the badges from the Polk grill to my new grills and BAM. Helps to have duckbill vice grips.
I dunno if that helped but Ill tell you what, you simply havent heard Dark Side of the Moon or Fleetwood Mac unless you have 400 watts and two JL Audio 8s two feet from your back!
Man I h8 the Blose system!:crazy
Personally, Set aside at least a grand and buy a good head unit. Non-amplified prefferably.
For my '84:
Purchased a Pioneer Premiere CD/CDR/MP3 player with front, rear and subwoofer outputs (composite/RCA). This is an amplified unit but I dont use the internal amp.
Purchased a Double-Din to Din plate.
Listened to and carefully chose the following.
2 Boston 4x6s
2 Polk 6x9s
2 JL Audio 4.5s
2 JL Audio 8" subs w/enclosure (I already had the JLs from a previous car. Soon to switch to one Kicker Solobaric 8" L7 wich will fit in storage bay behind drivers seat)
1 MTX 5 channel amp (45x4 125x2 or 250x1 bridged, I think)
1 instalation kit from Monster and one 6' set of Monster composite for subs.
1 spool of 16 guage speaker wire
1 spool of 12 guage speaker wire
Next was about 15 hours of installation. This was comprised mostly of yanking the Blose crap out and removing the amps from the enclosures. The retrofit of the Blose components was a b***h but the time spent was worthwhile. I also had to make new speaker grills for the 6x9s. I simply went to Home Depot and bought some iron screen door mesh. It is 1mil stretched steel and the painted black. It looks perfect. Then all that was left was swapping the badges from the Polk grill to my new grills and BAM. Helps to have duckbill vice grips.
I dunno if that helped but Ill tell you what, you simply havent heard Dark Side of the Moon or Fleetwood Mac unless you have 400 watts and two JL Audio 8s two feet from your back!
Man I h8 the Blose system!:crazy
Corvette-Pilot
Well-known member
evolution said:
One trick I have used on past systems is to take the stock grill and cover the new speakers or in this case remove the stock name tag for the new grill. This way it seems stock to prying eyes :eek
Why did you have to make new speaker covers ?
[QUOTEMan I h8 the Blose system[/QUOTE]
Totally agree.
I find it amazing the GM's flag ship toutes the ultimate with "Bose Gold" stereos that SUK.
It would be nice if they still offered the stereo delete option.
For the money they charge for the POS system we could build a killer system.
JMO
E
evolution
Guest
The stock Blose speakers in the rear were 4.5s I believe but the enclosure had, for some reason or another, a plastic plate that exposed a 6x9 hole and mounts. When I tried to put the stock cover back on, there was a "crossmember" that hit the seperate tweeter assembly on my Polks. What I actually did is modify the original cover by ripping the old plastic/cloth cover material and "crossmember" thing with a dremel and covered it with my new metal grill material. It looks simply smashing now.
Ill try to grab some pics from it.
For prying eyes I just pull the cover over my box and it also covers the speakers. It looks stock then but it sure doesnt sound stock.
E
evolution
Guest
B
Bonefish
Guest
So what are the options for just replacing the head end on an 84? Any way to add a sub woofer using a new head end and existing bose speakers?
bogus
Active member
that is not a good idea.
The converters to get signal to the blose speakers are not worth the space they take up.
besides, if your getting noise in the system already, its coming from the speakers already, not the head unit.
pull it all.
or repair it.
middle ground does not really exist.
The converters to get signal to the blose speakers are not worth the space they take up.
besides, if your getting noise in the system already, its coming from the speakers already, not the head unit.
pull it all.
or repair it.
middle ground does not really exist.
B
Bonefish
Guest
I'm getting a static kind of sound and it is the treble and bass slides. I think it just needs some electrical cleaning solvent.
Can I add a Bazooka powered base unit if I keep everything else stock?
I just got the car. 84 with 14,000 miles so it hasn't been used much and things might be a little dusty.
Can I add a Bazooka powered base unit if I keep everything else stock?
I just got the car. 84 with 14,000 miles so it hasn't been used much and things might be a little dusty.
E
evolution
Guest
It all just depends on how much time and money you want to put into it. When the stock system goes south, There is no cheap way to fix it unless you are an electrical wizard.
As for the Bazooka:
Yes, to do it right you must buy Bass Blockers from Crutchfield.com ('bout $20 for 4) and install them in the front and rear speakers. Now take the Bazooka Tube (Mind you this MUST be the amplified version, they have one that looks like a NOS tank!) and wire it inline to one of the rear speakers BEFORE the Bass Blocker.
Heres links: ....K, nevermind, broken links, my bad. They worked yesterday....hmmm
As for the Bazooka:
Yes, to do it right you must buy Bass Blockers from Crutchfield.com ('bout $20 for 4) and install them in the front and rear speakers. Now take the Bazooka Tube (Mind you this MUST be the amplified version, they have one that looks like a NOS tank!) and wire it inline to one of the rear speakers BEFORE the Bass Blocker.
Heres links: ....K, nevermind, broken links, my bad. They worked yesterday....hmmm
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