Bought my 454

[matchframe]

Thanks Craig!

I just went from what was I going to do, to I got what I wanted, to Hi Perfomance Block in a matter of minutes. You can't beat a rush like that!

Bill

 

[67HEAVEN]

Thanks Craig!

I just went from what was I going to do, to I got what I wanted, to Hi Perfomance Block in a matter of minutes. You can't beat a rush like that!

Bill

Cheap drugs.

 

[bossvette]

the Chevy Power book is my "bible"
I had to buy another one I wore out the first one I bought, best 7 bucks you can spend

 

[matchframe]

I am going to have to get me one of those books! Sounds like it has a lot of good information in it.

I was at a dealer earlier today and bought the GM Performance Parts Catalog for 6 bucks. Next time I am there, I will have to get the Chevy Power Book.

Thanks for all the info!

Bill

 

[bossvette]

this one is the POWER catalog, but it is more a tech manual with part numbers in it then a actual catalog. another invaluable GM book is their restoration parts reference guide which lists licensed restoration part manufacturers by car line and part type

 

[matchframe]

Does the Power Book have things like torque values and such in it?

Also what would be a good book that details the Gen V engines, with all the performance possibilities that can be done with it?

I almost bought the Chilton's manual for the truck I got the engine from, but after looking through it, it did not have what I was looking for.

 

[69MyWay]

Looks like you got very luck, Bill, no matter what slant Chris was trying to put on it.

Tada!

I always try to make lemonaid out of my lemons.

 

[bossvette]

Chiltons is like a comic book compared to it
the power book is the best 7 bucks you will ever spend it has torque values, clearances tricks you name it. it is one of the generals best kept secrets

 

[matchframe]

Head casting numbers

I found the head casting numbers; 10114156.

http://www.mortec.com/bbc.htm

On MorTec that number indicates that the heads are 118cc Open, Oval Port Gen V & VI 454.

What does the "118cc" and "Open" mean?

Bill

 

[67HEAVEN]

Re: Head casting numbers

I found the head casting numbers; 10114156.

What does the "118cc" and "Open" ....steigerperformance.com/PRODUCTS/sp90005.html

Question #2 - Open Chamber heads. Early big blocks were closed chamber. (meaning the shape of the combustion chamber - open is better)

 

[67HEAVEN]

Closed chamber heads have smaller combustion chamber volumes and can achieve high compression ratios, with even mildly domed pistons.

Open chamber heads are larger and provide lower compression ratios. They require a much larger piston dome to achieve the same compression as a closed-chamber head.

With today's fuel octane availability, open chamber is your best bet. Whichever heads are used, matching pistons must be used as well.

 

[matchframe]

OK, that make sense...Thanks 67!

I pulled the intake, and I have a flat tappet hydraulic cam. Do I understand right that the Gen V engines can take a Roller Cam? Is there much mod work that needs to be done, or is it pretty much a plug and play deal?

Bill

 

[M&W's72vette]

Hye Bill, judging from your pics you have the regular block as the tall deck blocks were set up with the big round bellhousing adaptor plate to accept large clutches. Yours should have an 11 inch clutch disc whereas the truck blocks had 12 inch clutches.
I have an 85 big block out of a motorhome and the heads on it have small intake ports, they call them the peanut ports. They are still oval but smaller than the regular oval ports and I dont think you can get any manifolds to fit them and they dont flow good either. Might be a good idea to investigate the heads before going any further with them. I will be following your buildup so I can get ideas for my engine.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[matchframe]

Mike,

Thanks for the "Heads Up" on the heads! Pun intended. After I read your post, I read up on the "peanut" ports and found that I do not have that type of port. As I was reading about them, I discovered that the peanut ports are very responsive at low end of the torque curve, that is probably why they were in an RV. So if you are building a "jump off the line" car those ports will work well, especially if they are ported and polished. It is when they reach the top end of the power curve that they start to starve out. Having the peanut ports may also be a good excuse to looking into getting a set of aluminum heads.

As far as my project, I am in the middle of a frame-off modification. The 454 I bought last week was a little premature in my plan of attack....but I could not turn down the good deal. I need to get back to concentrating on the frame and suspension, and prepping the body for getting back on the street before I start too deep into the engine. I will be posting my progress of the whole project.

Good to meet you Mike.

Bill

 

[69MyWay]

Bill,

A "roller" block often came with a flat tappet cam.

Here is he difference. The roller block with have a couple (three) threaded holes running along the cam ridge that goes from front to back of the engine right in the lifter galley.

The bore that the lifters sit in is also different.

If you remove the timing chain, there will be a machined circle behind the gear with a threaded small hole on each side. This is where the thrust bearing bolts down.

You have to have the type II roller block to drop the roller parts in.

Take a picture of the galley and shoot it to me or post it.

In later years, they put the roller cam as well as the roller block in the trucks. They were just converting everything over in the late 80s early 90s. Trucks came last

You will purchase the "rev" kit out of another motor, or new. I will consist of the lifters with the roller tips, 8 alignment blocks, and a sheet metal spider looking thing that bolts down to those holes on top of the galley and spring load holds the 8 blocks around the roller lifters to keep them from spinning. You will then need the thrust bearing and a timing chain specific for the roller cam.

This factory set up is far superior to any retro fitting of older blocks to full roller cams.

On a down note, that trans does not look like it is going to work well for you in this application. The shifter would be coming out way in the wrong spot, and it is so large around it would interfere with something.

You may be able to trade a salvage yard that HD trans for a 5 speed from a late 80s early 90s F body, or an actual later model six speed (trade plus $$).

The best part is, you already have the flywheel, etc. so that is a big leap forward.

 

[matchframe]

Thanks Chris,

I had about come to the same conclusion on the trans. After looking it over, I thought it was too tall to fit under the Vette. And like you said, the shifter was way out of place. I think I will try to exchange it somewhere for a usable trans....I would like to find a later model 6 speed, this trans plus some money to get something nice.

Here is a pic of the galley, are the three plugs down the middle where the Roller hardware attaches?

Bill

 

[69MyWay]

Bill,

That block does not have the mounting holes for the roller kit.

Either the block is a bit older, or they did not have those available in 92.

No problem, there are plenty of great flat tappet combos out there. That is what I have in Killer.

 

[matchframe]

Oh well, can't have everything!

A good loping hydraulic is a good thing, right?

I was reading about the Gen V blocks, and they are the only ones that has non-adjustable rockers, but they can be easily switched out to adjustable ones just by getting rockers and studs for Gen IV or Gen VI. I would like to get Roller Rockers, should I get adjustable or the non-adjustable ones that are made for the Gen Vs?

Also on the same note, if I do get Roller Rockers, I would need to get taller valve covers. I have the factory A/C and also Hydra-boost brakes, do I have enough room for the taller covers?

Bill

 

[matchframe]

Pulled the heads this afternoon.

After pulling the heads this afternoon, the engine looks to be in good shape for 225,000 miles. There is no lip at the top of the cylinders, which really surprised me. The cam looks to be a little worn, as do the lifters. There was quite a bit of carbon build-up in the heads, but the valves look to be in good shape. Since the oxygen sensor was not even hooked up, that would explain the engine running rich, causing the carbon build-up. I will pull the valves out of the heads tomorrow to see what their condition really is. I still have to drop the pan to see what the lower end condition is like. There is no evidence of any water jacket leaks, but the magna-fluxing will confirm that.

I talked with the owner of a performance machine shop today (Clear Lake Speed Center), and he said that they could do the machine work when I am ready. We talked about punching the block out .060 over, balancing and blueprinting the rotating assembly. He will also port & polish the heads. My plans are to achieve 9.5-9.8 compression. I don't want to go any higher than that.

I will need to buy the pistons and other parts before I can drop the engine off for machining. Right now, I am leaning towards a solid lift cam...have not decided on lift and duration yet.

Bill