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Brake Booster Replacement

ZAL81

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Messages
122
Location
Washington, MO.
Corvette
81 Charcoal Metallic 4-spd & 94 Red 6 spd vert
I'm going to change the brake booster on my car and was wondering if there were any do's - don'ts - check'ons or watch out for's that I have should be aware of? According to the manual, its a pretty straight forward swap except for lack of room to work under the dash. I will probably remove my drivers seat(power) to give myself a little more room to work. Any tips??ZAL81
 
Only two things comes to mind. Don't pick up the new booster by the rod. It will damage the valve inside. When mounting it to the firewall push the studs thru and hook up the rod to the brake pedal before you install and tighten the nuts.
Mike
 
ZAL81


I replaced my Power Brake Booster a little over a year ago and I have no recommendations except that I concur with Stingray6974's Dos and Don't and to be patient. I have replaced all the Ujoints, Shocks, Calipers and rear strut rods, but replacing the Power brake Booster was by far the hardest, especially if you are 6' 4" and weigh over 300 lbs. Just be patient and take your time. It is pretty straight forward.
:)
 
Yea, over 6'4" .... but with a heart of Gold..
That's why we call him "Grizz" ;)

Yoda
:bu
 
What do you do when the booster clevis pin has 25 years of rust locking it to the pedal. The is no room to drive the pin out and none of the solvents
I have used seem to do anything. Have used cotten balls soaked in solvent and after a week the pin still won't budge. Has anyone been through this
aggravation before?
 
Chris, Can you get a pair of needle nose pliers on the pin and turn it to loosen up some of the rust and crude?
 
Rusty clevis pin

Chris, Can you get a pair of needle nose pliers on the pin and turn it to loosen up some of the rust and crude?

I took a regular pair of pliers and put them on my bench grinder so I could fit them between the clevis and the pedal. Even being able to grip the pin with these make shift pliers provides no movement of the pin. 26 years of rust
makes it feel like it is welded in place. Tried PB Blaster and oil of wintergreen
to no avail.
 
If anyone else has the problem, the solution is a dremel tool and a cutting wheel. This eliminates all the hazards of using a torch, a long and tedious
job but safe.
 

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