Brakes - Problems

[76corvette]

I was wondering if anyone has had this happen to your car (sorry bout all these "problems" im posting... must really make my car look great ) .. When I stop, my brakes sound like screeching glass or something... its really embarrasing to even stop at the stoplight sometimes... I am thinking about just getting new rotors (if thats the best thing to do, whats a good (and low priced) rotor for a 76 c3?) ... I already have put on 2 different kinds of pads, that red squeak stop stuff.. Any Ideas? ad

 

[resto75]

I dont know what is causing your noise as mine are really quiet. I think I used Raysbestos(sp) pads. If you think its your rotors call around to several local parts houses as there was a big difference in prices last time I bought rotors.

Are your rotors cracked and burnt looking? Maybe you just need to have them turned for about 8 bucks each.

Some brakes have metal strips that warn you when your pads are getting worn out. They make a scraping noise. I know you have new pads but maybe one is bent or out of place.

Don't feel bad about posting your questions as this is the place to do it.


Roy

 

[GWHITE75]

When you replaced the pads, did you prep the rotors in any way? If you just repalced the pads, especially OEM organic pads, the squeal can come back. Rotors shoud be turned to remove warpage, as well as give the new pads a rough surface to break in or seat with.

I have used a coarse grit sandpaper on a drill to roughen up my rotors, when I replaced the pads and I new the rotors were still true. This will work, but is difficult to do, unless you remove the rotors first.

If you can still have them safely turned, it won't cost much. If not, then I suggest you replace them with OEM rotors. You can get them from GM, Vette Brakes and Products, Ecklers etc. You should get new bearings as well.

You did not mention front or back. If it is the back, then you need to drill out the rivets holding the rotors on. If that has yet to be done you your car, then I suspect you really need to have the rotors removed, checked and turned or replaced.

 

[DDLS3]

I had a terrible time with the front brakes squealing on my Grand Cherokee right after having both brakes and rotors replaced. While the blue goo behind the pads stopped it for quite awhile the noise came back big time. It appears, that since the asbestos has been removed from brake pad composition, the squealing began. Pads are actually now harder than the rotor. The cure that I've heard used with the most success, is to buy genuine replacement pads from the dealer and use the goo that comes with them.

 

[Stallion]

When you guys say, "turn the rotors", what do you mean?

I'm not too worried about my braking system, but my rotors seem to have a little uneven wear on them. Maybe the calipers or just the brake pads need to be changed. They made little rivets on the rotors. And I don't think that's great, but maybe not an immediate problem.

TR

 

[76corvette]

GWHITE! Hey, does most auto body places "turn" rotors... I replaced the brakes pads with ones from NAPA.. (im not sure if it at first it had original) Do you think I should first get them "turned" and then if that doesn't work try original pads.. IF that doesn't work ... I will have no choice but to get NEW/USED rotors... any things to look for/be careful to avoid?

 

[GWHITE75]

Auto body shops probably won't have the equipment. Down here, we have auto parts stores like: O'Reilleys, AutoZone, Pep Boys. I believe most if not all of them have the euqipment to resurface or "turn" the rotors. They charge about $8-$10 ea.

Now, they can only resurface them down to a specific thickness. If there are grooves or the rotor has been resurfaced in the past, it might not be able to have another resurfacing. The person doing the resurfacing should be able to tell you if he can turn them or not, by checking the current thickness of the rotor. Also, those places usually sell rotors.

 

[76corvette]

HEY!
Thanx... I know exactly where an AutoZone is and I will bring them there... If I have to buy new rotors, is there any certain kind or traits that you suggest? I really don't want them to squeak ever again and might as well try to get some nicer ones.

WOULD U SUGGEST THAT I ALSO GET NEW BRAKE PADS IF I GET THEM TURNED OR BUY NEW ROTORS?

:J :gap

 

[Dave L.]

TR - to 'turn' brake rotors,they are removed from the car and placed on a special lathe that resurfaces them to a smooth finish.
Rotors can only be turned usually once or twice before you need to replace them altogether. There is a predetermined minimum thickness for the rotor. Worn rotors among other things could cause a soft or pulsating brake pedal condition or may cause brake squeel.

Dave

 

[Blue82]

Your problem is probaly from using metallic pads. I did this on my first brake job and the nois is horrible. It sounds like you are grinding the car to death. Make sure you have non-metallic pads. They don't work as well, but with the original rotors you need to use them. You also need to have the rotors turned if you didn't do it so you have a good level surface.

You need to get some aftermarket rotors if you want to use the better metallic pads.

 

[JohnZ]

The original rotors will last forever when used with OEM pads; if you use "racer" metallic pads, they'll eat the rotors. Don't turn rotors unless it's absolutely necessary, and if they need turning, take the car to a quality brake shop (not the discount kind in a converted gas station) or dealership with equipment to turn the rotor ON THE CAR. The OEM rotors were riveted to the hubs and spindles BEFORE they were machined, and the machining was done with them set up in bearings, to minimize lateral runout. Before re-installing calipers, check the lateral runout with a dial indicator setup - if they show more than .002"-.003" total indicated runout, they'll "pump" the caliper pistons at highway speed and pump air into the brake fluid; the C2-C3 brake system is designed with full-time pad-to-rotor contact (due to the fixed calipers), and if the rotors aren't true laterally, you've got real problems. You can't just go buy new rotors (after drilling out the old rivets) and install them and assume they'll work OK.

 

[76corvette]

will chevrolet dealers know all the stuff that you are talking about right? (that lateral stuff and what not) how much does a dealer usually charge for turning them on the car?

 

[Dave L.]

I'll bet most GM dealers don't have the equipment to turn them on the car. You better make some calls first.

Dave

 

[Blue82]

Excellent reply John. Kind of summs up everything I have heard over the years.

When you have the dealer do the brakes, do they re-rivet the rotors or do they never remove the original ones?

 

[JohnZ]

Most well-equipped dealers and specialty brake shops have the on-the-car rotor turning equipment. If your rotors can take turning and still be over minimum thickness spec, they won't touch the rivets; if it needs new rotors, they'll drill out the rivets (to get the old rotors off), install the new rotors secured with backwards lug nuts, turn the rotors on the car, then remove the nuts and re-install the wheels. It's a good idea to mark a lug stud and the rotor hole it comes through so you can re-install them indexed in the same position if you have to remove them later for other work. Do NOT take your Corvette to "Billy-Bob's Discount Brakes" kind of places - they don't know anything about the unique requirements of C2/C3 brakes, as everything else they work on has floating single-piston calipers which aren't as sensitive to rotor lateral runout as Corvette fixed-caliper constant-contact brakes are.