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BRAKES

R

RONS81

Guest
I AM CHANGING CALIPERS TO SS, CALIPERS.
CAN ANY ONE RECOMEND A GOOD BRAKE BLEEDER
& IS BETTER TO PRESSURE OR VACUUM BLEED.
WOULD I USE REGULAR FLUID OR SILICONE.
 
Ron, First, let me tell you what I think about silicone brake fluid. I think it is a waste of money, unless you are in a Winston Cup car on the high banks of Martinsville Speedway. Here is the big problem I have about silicone Brake Fluid though is supposedly it can't be mixed with DOT#3. What happens when you take your car to the shop for a service, they notice that it is a little low on brake fluid, out of the kindness of thier heart they fill it up for you. Now, there is nothing on the car that says use DOT#5. If it will not mix, you are mad because, now you have to reflush the system and replace with the DOT#5. I have never seen where it makes any differance at all. Now as far as bleedin the system, I usually leave the bleeders open and let it gravity bleed for a while. Then I have an assistant pump the brake and do it the old fashion way. If I have trouble getting that way, I will use my mini-vac pump to get it going. But, I always finnish back bleeding the brakes with someone pumping for me.......I hope this helps........Steve
 
Sorry to butt in , but I have a little question, How can you tell if you have silicone brake fluid or not allready in your system? Can you tell just by looking at it?
Thanks
Donnie
 
Donnie, That's my point. I think it is clear,or clearer any way. Other then that I don't know how to tell the differance........Steve
 
Taste. But just a little. DOT #3 seems to have a more acrid taste. Silicone very bland. THat was the only was I could tell when I forgot which jar had the #3 or #5 on the work bench. However I agree with Steve. I had #5 in my '72 and showed no appreciable difference in wear or pedal pressure or anything. #5 is supposed to not brake down as quickly under extreme heating (i.e. Martinville Speedway driving). Save the headaches and some $$ and stay with #3.

...... Nut
 
I am against silicone brake fluid too. I don't see the benefit. The cost is way out of proportion for me as well.

When I bleed my brakes I always use the gravity method followed by a quick two-man method. This is the method that the SSBC (I think it was SSBC, I can’t find the book) brake book recommends.

With the gravity method I jack up the end of the car I am gonna bleed to where the center of the axle, spindle, is about 15 inches above the ground and the other end is still on the tires.

Then I crack the bleeders a bit to get a slight flow of fluid. Making sure that the top is loose on the master cylinder and that the master cylinder never gets too low on fluid.

After about 10 or 15 minutes I close the bleeders then I use the two-man method to finish it off.

After that I check my brakes to see if they improved. If they did this tells me that this is the circuit with the air-pumping problem. I then repeat the procedure on the other end of the car.

Jacking only the end of the car I am bleeding makes the bleeder screws the highest part of the system so that the air works it’s way to the highest point.

This usually does it for me.

Tims75
 
Nice Post

Tims75

Very nice post, and Welcome aboard. You make it sound very easy, nice job.
icon14.gif


BudD
:w
 
brakes

I thought that the idea behind silicone fluid, other than heat resistance, was that it didn't absorb water and cause rust pitting in the cylinder bores. I have had silicone in the '81 since '83 with no brake problems. I bought a gallon back then and still have most of it.

Tom

P.S. Welcome to the forums, Tim and Ron.

[Edited by 59Tom on 01-29-2001 at 12:47 AM]
 
Thanks for the welcome!! :)

Don't ya just love the internet????


Tim75
 
Bleeding1

Thanks Tim for outlining your brake bleeding proceedures. I always had trouble bleeding my midyears. I'll soon be doing this job on my '69 stepside and will try the gravity approach this time.
Tom

P. S. Yes Tim. How did we ever live without the internet. Sure wouldn't have as many friends to talk to.
 

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