C/1 Hardtop Header Molding Removal

[BIDFORPARTS]

that trim separates from that metal rusted piece. Glassworks will sell in the kit those t-studs to replace......I had to show my SS guy how to get it apart in order for him to get the dents out and replace the t studs

Soooo how DO you get that retainer off the ss trim properly? Also, where do I get the replacement piece?

 

[firstgear]

we worked it off from one end. just like the front header SS was clipped on and had to be worked off carefully so that you did not dent the SS. Once it starts to come off, it will seperate. Don't force anything otherwise you will dent something.

I started mine off for the polisher and he continued the seperation. Just relaize that it needs to snap back on when you are done with it. In the case of the polisher, since there were some dents in the SS piece, he had to have it come apart in order to push the dents back out. When he does that he can change out the threaded t studs.

Look closely at it and think front header trim and how did you get that apart.....

replacement piece? you mean the steel insert that has the SS clipped to it? In my case we are bead blasting it and reusing it after we stick the threaded t studs replacements in. If your piece is so far gone, then I suggest calling Glassworks. Seems they have pieces of everything BUT be prepared to pay for it. the pieces they have are originals and USED. I had to get some new hold down brackets for the back window and those were $125 each. They weren't new and they had some scuffs on them, but they will replace the stock pieces......

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

we worked it off from one end. just like the front header SS was clipped on and had to be worked off carefully so that you did not dent the SS. Once it starts to come off, it will seperate. Don't force anything otherwise you will dent something.

I started mine off for the polisher and he continued the seperation. Just relaize that it needs to snap back on when you are done with it. In the case of the polisher, since there were some dents in the SS piece, he had to have it come apart in order to push the dents back out. When he does that he can change out the threaded t studs.

Look closely at it and think front header trim and how did you get that apart.....

replacement piece? you mean the steel insert that has the SS clipped to it? In my case we are bead blasting it and reusing it after we stick the threaded t studs replacements in. If your piece is so far gone, then I suggest calling Glassworks. Seems they have pieces of everything BUT be prepared to pay for it. the pieces they have are originals and USED. I had to get some new hold down brackets for the back window and those were $125 each. They weren't new and they had some scuffs on them, but they will replace the stock pieces......

Well, I did some thinkin'. Right now, I'm in the middle of custom fabricating individual retainers for that lower rear window trim. I already have 9 made and I'll be working to get 9 more done so I can put that window back in. It's funny how creative you're forced to be in order to save a buck. These little buggers are going to work.
I took a 1/8 x 1" fender washer and ground off two edges of it resulting in the critical dimension of .644" in width so that it can be snapped in the trim. After getting the washer into the proper shape I then installed a #6 - 32 x 1/2" stud with a nut to hold it to the washer then ground down the head pretty far so that it results in the correct overall thickness to fit, as an assembly, in the piece of trim. The nut on the stud that holds it on the washer doesn't seem to be a thickness issue because, when tightened, the nut just burrows into the rubber gasket and winds up holding the trim in place as it should. YAY, PROGRESS!

 

[firstgear]

ok, I am in to the re-assembly. Couple of "ah crap" moments:W...I had to get new top hold down brackets. So when I put the new ones on, I put the rivets in ALL holes. Opps, DUMB moment. I ended up grinding out two of the rivets that hold the bracket for the left and right header. It goes right over hold down bracket and the trim molding goes over that. DUH!ad Not sure if I will use rivets again or not. I went out and bought some #4/40 screws and nuts that go right through the rivet hole. I might put those one with blue loctite and then grind off the head to make it thinner. I am putting the screw heads to the outside as opposed to the inside.

Next "ah crap":W, was that I bought just the ABS headliner with out the interior head liner attached. I am going to have my interior guy attach the leather to this, but I just figured out that the headliner needs to be in as I build up the sides and put the front header bar on. DUH!!!! off comes the front header bar so I can get the headliner back out, I got it partially wedged in, I just love making work for myself.

You know if you do more than one of these it must be easier on the next ones.....

 

[firstgear]

I got my headliner back from the upholstery guy. He did a nice job. I have it installed in the hardtop. Also this past weekend I got the seals installed for the rear glass, the front header, the side windows and the dirver/passenger windows. Next on the list to do is the install of the rear window. I think before I do that I might sit the hardtop on the body to make sure that everything sits nice before I assemble it any further.

There were a couple of "oh crap" moments, but nothing that I couldn't work my way through. Setting some of the rivets is a challenge. I took my air powered chisel and modified one of the tips to smash the rivets. It does a nice job. But I ran into a couple that I had to smash with a hammer. After screwing up a few of those, I decided that the right way to get the rivet to spread rather than collapsing on itself was to take my center punch and hit it in the middle of the rivet. This allowed it to spread when I went to smash it with a bigger punch. Once I did that it worked much better. Of course I messed a few rivets up and had to figure out how to keep going. Since I wasn't worried about this being NCRS correct, I took some of the drive rivets and my die grinder and significantly flattened the head out. Once I got it reduced to the size of the normal rivets, I was able to use a few of those in one of the areas that I needed to rivet together.

So far, there isn't anything that people couldn't do after doing one. that is the key in my mind. there were a coupl eof things I would have done differently had I known ahead of time. It would have saved me going backwards. But so far so good.

Hopefully I will have it done this next weekend, at least given everything I have to do to the car for the indoor show, I need to keep to a schedule.

Stand by....more to come...