C-2 Body/Frame shimming??

[kobi67]

I am getting ready to drop the body on a new frame. Any advise on how to get it shimmed properly would help.. Coupe body. Thanks, Kurt

 

[stepinwolf]

Trial & Error

Kurt, I noticed that although quite a few had read this post, no one had volunteered any response, so I will give it a try.

Trial and error is the only way us hobbiests can properly fit a body to a new, or different frame. I have went through this procedure many times, and this is the only way I have been able to do it without the help of lasers, or sophisticated measuring equipment used by the manufacturers.

I start by levelling the frame on six jack stands "minimum " so that no suspension is in play, and then slowly lower the body unto the frame. Then I go carefully around each of the body mounts, and using a small pry bar, I lift or lower in order each of the body mounts in order so that I can get approximately the same weight, or pressure on each pad.

As each pad is visited, I added, or removed shims so that it would also sit level. This will have to be done in a rotating manner 3 or 4 time is secession before the body is sitting on each mount with the same pressure. It's amazing to see that you will be able to get approximately the same weight on each mount by doing this in multiple passes.

For those who must go through this on a convertible, special attention must be paid to the gaps at the rear of the doors, because this is where an initial " out of Wacke condition " first shows up. As for coupes, it must also be done with care so as not to put undu pressure on the fiberglass body when tightning down each body mount.

If you end up with one side properly adjusted, and this gap is incorrect, you will most likely have to ad, or remove shims from all four mounts on the same side to bring the door gap into the proper alignment. Then don't be surprised of you need to balance the opposite side so that the body doesn't sit higher or lower on one side only

I once worked on a customers car that had been treated to a complete body off repair by a local body shop. Notice I didn't say restoration shop. and when they mated the body to the frame, I guess the body shim thing was not understood, because they ( the repair shop ) had taken all the shims ( 11 ) and put them at the rear drivers side body mount. The door gap was so tight on the drivers side, that the owner had to climb over the door to enter the car. I guess they didn't understand the shim thing'y :ugh

Hope this helps

Stepinwolf

 

[61 Silver]

Hi! Kurt

I will also be dropping a body on to a new frame, 63 SWC in the very near future. I purchased a new frame from Vette Products and when I picked up the frame I asked them the best procedure for shimming the body. They told me to place equal number shims at each body mount point and remove or add shims to adjust body gaps. I have been watching your post for other views on this topic.

On my 61 the tail on the left rear side set lower then the right. When I removed the body there was evidence of damage to the left rear body fiberglass mount. I rebuilt this area to the same specifications as the right side. I then shimmed the body at the front (Radiator-engine bay) and rear mounts for level and equal measurements. I then proceeded to shim the interior mounts for body gaps. I did have to remove or add shim or two at the rear or front mounts to achieve the gaps that I wanted. I am very satisfied with the look and gaps on the 61.


Ray

 

[BarryK]

Bob
your knowledge and experience is a great asset to this forum. I look forward to reading each of your threads and posts whenever I see you have contributed.

even if the subject is one that doesn't pertain to my car (at least currently) I usually learn something from your posts that i can file away in the back of my mind for any future use.

 

[stepinwolf]

Live and learn for all of us

Bob
your knowledge and experience is a great asset to this forum. I look forward to reading each of your threads and posts whenever I see you have contributed.

even if the subject is one that doesn't pertain to my car (at least currently) I usually learn something from your posts that i can file away in the back of my mind for any future use.

Barry,

I appreciate your gratious comments, but I must admit that like everyone else, I too have leaned regulary from this Forum.

The procedure I have described in this post has always worked very well for me in the past. However I must confess that my first trys were not always easy to accomplish, and only after having completed the process a few times did I become comfortable with the process. For the first time user, the alternative process that has also been recommended in one of these responses, ( check 61 silver ) would undoubtedly be much easier, and safer for the un-initiated. Here is how I interpret the previous instructions.

Take a certain quantity of body shim ( you will need quite a few spares ) and deposit 5 or 6 of them ( same quantity ) on each frame mount. Then lower the body carefully and let it rest on the shims. Then check each mount for clarence, because there will certainly be some places where it will be impossible to move the shims, and by the same token, there will be other places where the body will not quite touch the frame shims, or there might even be a space between both.

Now for the easy, eh !, make that fun part. Go around the car, and locate each place that the shims are tightly in place, and remove one shim from each of these positions. Then it's around the car once more to verify the tightness, or loosesest ( for lack of a better word ) until all six or eight mounts have the same pressure on the shims. An excellent procedure, and I am anxious to try this method myself.

Kudos to Vette Products for his recommendations

Stepinwolf

P.S. By the way Barry, filling stuff away in the back of your mind is good, I do it myself regulary, but to be able to find the info when one needs, is the hard part.

 

[gmjunkie]

Barry,

I appreciate your gratious comments, but I must admit that like everyone else, I too have leaned regulary from this Forum.

The procedure I have described in this post has always worked very well for me in the past. However I must confess that my first trys were not always easy to accomplish, and only after having completed the process a few times did I become comfortable with the process. For the first time user, the alternative process that has also been recommended in one of these responses, ( check 61 silver ) would undoubtedly be much easier, and safer for the un-initiated. Here is how I interpret the previous instructions.

Take a certain quantity of body shim ( you will need quite a few spares ) and deposit 5 or 6 of them ( same quantity ) on each frame mount. Then lower the body carefully and let it rest on the shims. Then check each mount for clarence, because there will certainly be some places where it will be impossible to move the shims, and by the same token, there will be other places where the body will not quite touch the frame shims, or there might even be a space between both.

Now for the easy, eh !, make that fun part. Go around the car, and locate each place that the shims are tightly in place, and remove one shim from each of these positions. Then it's around the car once more to verify the tightness, or loosesest ( for lack of a better word ) until all six or eight mounts have the same pressure on the shims. An excellent procedure, and I am anxious to try this method myself.

Kudos to Vette Products for his recommendations

Stepinwolf

P.S. By the way Barry, filling stuff away in the back of your mind is good, I do it myself regulary, but to be able to find the info when one needs, is the hard part.

Work's for Me!! But I like 8 stand's myself!! junk!!

 

[BarryK]

P.S. By the way Barry, filling stuff away in the back of your mind is good, I do it myself regulary, but to be able to find the info when one needs, is the hard part.

ain't that the truth!!

 

[JohnZ]

I've only done this once (mating a body to a new frame it wasn't born with), and started with three shims at each mount location, pretty much following Bob's procedure - finding loose or tight shim packs and adjusting, and spent a lot of time with the #3 and #4 mounts to get parallel door gaps (it was a convertible). Worked out fine, just tedious. Don't forget the rad support mounts if you have a new frame - take the "droop" stress off the bottom of the rad support and shim the resultant gaps at the top of the frame horns as necessary (they were welded in place on the line).

 

[stepinwolf]

I've only done this once (mating a body to a new frame it wasn't born with), and started with three shims at each mount location, pretty much following Bob's procedure - finding loose or tight shim packs and adjusting, and spent a lot of time with the #3 and #4 mounts to get parallel door gaps (it was a convertible). Worked out fine, just tedious. Don't forget the rad support mounts if you have a new frame - take the "droop" stress off the bottom of the rad support and shim the resultant gaps at the top of the frame horns as necessary (they were welded in place on the line).

John,

Funny you mention the welded thing, because I also have found that most untouched frames will usually have an assorted quantity of shims, welded to the inner, lower lip of each frame horn.

Stepinwolf

 

[kobi67]

I can't wait to get started. Thanks for the info.. I guess I will have to buy some beer and invite about 10 guys for a body lifting party. Beer only after the body is back on... Thanks again.. Kurt

 

[stepinwolf]

I can't wait to get started. Thanks for the info.. I guess I will have to buy some beer and invite about 10 guys for a body lifting party. Beer only after the body is back on... Thanks again.. Kurt

Kurt

Personally, I would recommend any type of lifting, or lowering system, other then have a dozen or so friends, all trying to sit the body down in the right place, at the same time. Better to go slow, one or two looking out for clearance, and keep everyone on tap for the next party. Too many do-gooders don't always get it right. :argue

My two cents

Stepinwolf

 

[gmjunkie]

Kurt

Personally, I would recommend any type of lifting, or lowering system, other then have a dozen or so friends, all trying to sit the body down in the right place, at the same time. Better to go slow, one or two looking out for clearance, and keep everyone on tap for the next party. Too many do-gooders don't always get it right. :argue

My two cents

Stepinwolf

To much Help,Is worse than not enough!!:W :W Rather be by myself than too much Help!! I want it Right not Right Now!! I'll Getter Done!! junk!!

 

[BLACK MOON]

I set mine last week with a 1 ton lift from Northern $39. Put a beam up in the garage ceiling and bought a forged steel 'I' bolt. $80 investment and it worked like a charm. Cheeper than beer and since i'm having to shim to clear transmission, it was the only way to go.