C-2 Front springs install/bare frame??

[kobi67]

Ok, Who has a trick for installing front springs on a bare frame???? I have a center bolt spring compressor and it seems like I will have to reduce the spring from 17'' down to 10'' to get it in and bolt in the spindle. I have done this with the car assembled and used the weight of the car to jack the lower control arm against. A bit hairy compressing the spring that tight... Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks, Kurt

 

[Subfixer]

I'll try to explain how I did mine..... I unthreaded everything off the spring compressor. Put the threaded end down the top hole for the shock absorber, and threaded on the bottom section of the compressor. I had the hooks about 2 coils up from the bottom so I could let the spring back down into the lower a-arm. I compressed the spring up into the spring pocket in the frame and installed the lower a-arm and then let the spring down. The tricky part is getting the hook section back out once the spring is all set, but it can be done. I unthreaded the center bolt and fished the hook section out the bottom shock mount hole in the lower a-arm.

Before you get everything hooked up, make sure the spring is properly positioned in the upper spring pocket in the frame.

 

[kobi67]

That may work!!! My only concern is if the compressor tool is long enough. Also, is the upper shock mount strong enough to handle that load? I noticed both the upper and lower spring mounts have locating wells for the end of the spring. Which is more important to have lined up?? Upper of lower? Thanks, Kurt

 

[BarryK]

Which is more important to have lined up?? Upper of lower? Thanks, Kurt

I had a question regarding my front springs last week.
according to JohnZ:
"Midyear front springs are spec'd to be seated only at the top, in the frame pocket; the end of the spring should be 3/8" away from the "stop" formation in the pocket. Bottom doesn't matter - the hole in the pocket in the lower control arm is just for water drainage".

hope this helps

 

[Subfixer]

That may work!!! My only concern is if the compressor tool is long enough. Also, is the upper shock mount strong enough to handle that load? I noticed both the upper and lower spring mounts have locating wells for the end of the spring. Which is more important to have lined up?? Upper of lower? Thanks, Kurt

The upper well is the important one as Barry has quoted from John. As far as the upper shock mount, I used several washers (part of my spring compressor) and some grease between them. Didn't score up or deform anything. My spring compressor center bolt is exactly 12" from the head to the end and it worked fine.

 

[kobi67]

Mine is 10'' long, just the threaded rod section. If I try your method, my hooks grab the midsection of the spring. Plan B... These springs scare the cr*p out of me... Kurt

 

[Subfixer]

I measured my rod from tip to tip. Yours still can work, just go up another coil with the hooks. As long as the hooks don't catch the bottom of the frame at full compression, you're OK.

Yeah, them springs scare the cr*p out of me too. The most tense part of my rebuild, but it really went smoothly. Even when I had to reposition the right on, cause I wasn't paying attention the first time. Pulling the springs up inside the frame pocket makes it seem a little safer also.

 

[stepinwolf]

AN inexpensive alternative to the store bought spring compressor

A home made spring compressor that is much safer to use, is one that can made by using an 18" section of 7/16" or 1/2" threaded rod. Find a piece of metal about 4" square with a minimum thickness of about 1/2", and drill a hole right in the center. Run your threaded rod through the hole, and them place a flat washer, followed by two nuts and lock them in place at the lower end of the rod. Then insert the upper portion of the rod from the bottom of the lower A-arm, through the spring, and then through the hole in the frame that is used for the upper shock mount

Then use a few lubricated flat washers followed by a nut, which is then tightened down far enough to compress the spring far enough so that your spindle can be attached. To make all this 100% safe, before tightening down the top nut, I always run a small section of chain around the frame, and through one of the coils in the spring. This way if the crap ever hits the fan, and everything comes apart, it will not injure you when it goes flying across the garage at 700MPH. This has worked for me during more then twenty years of compressing springs, and there has never been a problem or an issue.

Steppinwolf

BTY, this setup is also the safest way to take it all apart and removing the springs in the first place.