C1 Water Pump crying ...

[J60FI]

Finally got my 60 on the road this past weekend.. After 10 months of putting this project together..

THe ride was great while it lasted...

As I came to the last stop sign back to the home... I could smell that antifreeze smell.. you know the one... There is a leak..

So a few minutes later as I pull into my drive way... i could see the expression as my freind and son watched the flow of antifreeze coming out the bottom of the car.. As i heard them say.. OH OH.. together..

THe water pump ... looks like the gasket failed..

Any tips on the best way to change it.. and how long it should take.. or if i can rebuild it myself. ;help

Not sure that i can do it... but am thinking about it.. OR back the the shop..

Thanks

 

[JohnZ]

Where is the coolant coming from? The back plate on the pump itself, the weep hole in the nose of the pump, or where the pump and motormount bracket bolt to the front of the block?

 

[J60FI]

Where is the coolant coming from? The back plate on the pump itself, the weep hole in the nose of the pump, or where the pump and motormount bracket bolt to the front of the block?

John from what I can see, its coming from the back plate on the pump itself..

I was thinking I should have the water pump rebuilt while it is off..

 

[JohnZ]

Send it to Arthur Gould in New York, (631) 269-0093 or 754-5010; he specializes in Corvette water pumps and will turn it around in 3 days or less. About $60.00.

Support the engine from below - I use a simple saddle made from a 2x6 for the base and 1x6's for the sides, that supports on the pan rail so the oil pan doesn't get dented.

When you re-install, use gasket sealer (I like Permatex "Ultra-Copper" RTV) on both surfaces of both gaskets on each side, and use thread sealer on the bolts - they go into the block water jacket and will leak through the threads if not sealed.

It's a lot easier to assemble if you use two 3/8"-16 threaded studs, one in the top hole on each side, to "hang" the sandwich of parts on so you don't wipe off the sealer on the gaskets; then install the two lower bolts, remove the studs and replace with the top bolts, and torque all four.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I turned my engine in the '59 for the first time in 20 years a while back. All of the antifreeze immediately ran out of the front of the pump. The good news is that the engine is as free as when I ran it last.

John,
Have you ever rebuilt a C1 pump yourself with one of the kits available from Zip? It looks fairly simple if you have a press.

Tom

 

[Kid_Again]

...i've done C2 water pumps and the instructions are easy to follow...you just need a bunch of spacers to support the pump in the press and i think i used some deep sockets to push and support the bearing assembly

 

[JohnZ]

John,
Have you ever rebuilt a C1 pump yourself with one of the kits available from Zip? It looks fairly simple if you have a press.

Tom

Nope, I send mine to Arthur Gould. Interesting thread on the NCRS TDB today on issues with rebuild kits vs. the seals and seats they contain vs. varying thicknesses of impellers.

Make sure you support the pump in the press from the back side of the impeller housing - you WILL break the casting if the "legs" of the pump are sitting on the press plate.

 

[Tom Bryant]

I'll take a look at the NCRS TDB. I have 2 pumps so I may just send one off to Arthur Gould and do one myself just for comparison.