Question: C2 Average Temperatures Ranges

[hokie04]

I have recently purchased a 64 Vette 300hp I am wondering what are you fellow C2 owners seeing as your average operating temperatures? Mine runs between 180 and 200 depending on the weather and type of driving. The problem I am seeing is if I park somewhere for say twenty minutes the engine is around 220 when I get back and I am having trouble starting and then keeping it idling until I get it back on the road and cool it down some. I think it is the carb getting the gas so hot. I have plugged the two holes in the intake, installed a new spacer and baffle plate and rebuilt the AFB. I don't know what else to do. The ignition system appears to be fine. I reset the timing, checked the distributor advance and installed new plugs. Everything seems to start going south as the car gets hotter.

 

[Bill Wilhelm]

Hokie04, You can test your theory in the following manner. Next time you get low on gas, (less than 5 gallons in tank) add 5 gallons of LL100 Av gas. If you see an instant end of your problems you have your answer.
Most local airports will sell you fuel if you bring a proper container. If the sales person asks what the fuel is going into, tell them it's for "off road use". Let us know how your test turns out. Bill

 

[hokie04]

Bill, you have my curiosity up. I have read up on the LL100 Avgas fuel and it is somewhere between 98 and 100 octane, it has some lead in it and it is not prone to vapor lock. My car's previous owner said the engine's compression was lowered when he rebuilt the engine and the valve seats were hardened so he could run regular. I only use high test gas in it. So I think you are thinking vapor lock??

 

[Bill Wilhelm]

Hokie04, Yes, Vapor lock among other things. Try 5 gallons of LL 100 and report back. Bill

 

[magicv8]

My 66 SB mule (has BB radiator) runs 160F-170F most of the time but will surge to 180F on a 100F day with A-C running.

 

[Craig -1965]

C2

I believe your starting problem is vapor lock, wrap your fuel line with aluninum foil so it's approx an inch in diameter it's a cheap fix, you temp is normal I have a 160 thermostat and run at 160-180.

 

[hokie04]

Hey, thanks for all the input! It's been raining the last few days. I want to run the gas down to about a quarter of a tank and test Bill's theory. The thing that bugs me is the previous owner who I believe, said the car in the 34 years he owned it never ran over 180. He did an engine rebuild in 1997 and added a Comp 268H cam, lowered compression and hardened valve seats to burn regular gas. He has only driven the car around 200 miles since the rebuild. So when I get the car it doesn't want to idle and runs between 180 and 200. I found a bad rad cap causing overflow. I rebuilt the AFB carb, reset timing and changed plugs. The car runs great while it's in the 180 range but as it heats up the idle and everything become unstable. I am suspecting either gas heat issues with either intake or gas lines or I guess possibly a bad head gasket. The thermostat appears to be opening but I should probably take it out to eliminate that possiblity. Sorry for the novel!!

 

[hokie04]

I just wanted to close this thread out with what I found to be the problem. First I borrowed an IR temperature gun and found out that my temp gauge was only reading only a few degrees high. So then I started suspecting the clutch fan so I drove the car and like before after about 10 miles the temp gauge went up to over 200+ and then stabilized. When I got home I grabbed the fan and found out the clutch mechanism had quite a bit of play while the engine was hot. I replaced the clutch fan and so far the temp has not gone over 180 and the engine runs good and the idle is stable and it starts good while hot. Thanks everyone's advice!

 

[67vet]

Hokie04 Just some information that may not apply but I thought that I would throw it in:
When I bought my 67 a couple of years ago, I noticed the water pump was loose at the front from a worn bearing. The problem was that a previous owner installed a declutching fan that had "slot mounts" instead of "holes". It wasn't mounted perfectly centered so after a period of time it wore the water pump out of round.
I installed a new water pump and a declutch with "hole" mounts and have had no problem since.

 

[hokie04]

Thanks for your reply! I found out the same thing. When I purchased the clutch mechanism it was slotted instead of the one with holes like I had. It did have a brass centering ring that when over the center of the water pump mount and I took special care centering the clutch. It was one of those things were GM wanted $260 for the clutch, Corvette Ctrl. around $170 and my local auto parts $39. It didn't take me long to decide. :confused