C2 - Holley 3810 Advice

[Firemist1]

Pictures would be GREAT!

Sent you a PM with pictures. If you did not receive it, let me know.

 

[JohnZ]

Carbs don't get any simpler than a Holley, and when they get to be 40 years old, they need a little attention, and a simple rebuild isn't enough. A proper rebuild that will provide years of (dry) service includes machining the main body surfaces dead flat where the metering blocks mate up to it, and ensuring that the metering block and float bowl gasket surfaces are also dead flat (old zinc die-castings can warp with age and heat). That's how guys like Jerry Luck, Jerry MacNeish, Chuck Woodruff, etc. made their reputations as expert Holley rebuilders/restorers.

I've had countless Holleys over the last 35 years, and have never had a leaker; the original 3810 on my '67 (Jerry Luck) and the original 4053 on my '69 Z/28 (Jerry MacNeish) both look like the day they were built, are dry as a bone, and run like gangbusters. You get what you pay for when you have an old Holley rebuilt RIGHT.

 

[65vettish]

You get what you pay for when you have an old Holley rebuilt RIGHT.

When it came time to rebuild my Holley 4150, I took it to Holley's custom restoration shop in Springfield, TN. The shop is close to my home and the boys there treated me right. It wasn't cheap though. The cost was nearly as much as a new carb. When it was returned it looked and functioned like a new carburetor. As I recall it took about a month for them to restore it.

 

[67ragtop]

Thanks for all the good advice.

Since I've already given up on the original carb, I decided to try adjusting the float level. This is rather easy and inexpensive to try before switching to another carb. I think Firemist1's recommendation about the can filter is also a great idea.

I hope to get the gaskets soon and have some results by this weekend.

Thanks again,
Mike