C2 - Stuck in Reverse

[Ronald]

Hi,

;helpI just had a new clutch installed. It is now stuck in reverse. It did work when I first brought it home a couple days ago. It has the original shifter, transmission etc. The shifter “reverse pull up” stays in the up position. Any suggestion on how I can pop it out of reverse?

 

[Tom Bryant]

Either something shift linkage related come loose or was not assembled/adjusted correctly. Looks like a trip under the car is in order to see what you can see.

Tom

 

[Ronald]

Yes, I'll take a look. I forgot to add that it shifts easily from reverse to neutral, it just will not shift into other gears because the reverse "pull up thing" stays pulled up.

 

[Ronald]

I got underneath amd took a look. I don’t know anything about how this works, but I found 3 levers on the transmission. I was able to move all of them freely. The “pull up thing” on the shifter stays in the up position. Thus I can only shift between reverse and neutral. Should I put the levers in a certain position and try driving it?

 

[Tom Bryant]

It's been awhile since I had one of these apart. I'm surprised some of our other members with mid years haven't chimed in on this.

Under the shift knob is a spring that compresses when you pull up on the T handle. There is a set screw in the back of the T handle that secures the lockout to the handle. If I remember correctly you can unscrew the shift knob then simply lift the T handle, spring and lock out cable/rod out of the shifter. Now you should be able to shift all 4 gears and reverse freely. The shift lever should move all the way right and left in the neutral gate without any interference if the shifter arms are aligned correctly.

Since your T handle stays in the up position I'm wondering if the spring is in place or was lost during your repair work. If the lever catches when going right to left through the neutral gate then the shifter needs adjusted.

With the shifter in neutral and all 3 transmission levers in neutral remove them one at a time from the shifter levers. Turn each shift rod in or out to lengthen or shorten it until it fits freely back in it's shift lever hole and replace the clip. Once all 3 levers are done your neutral gate should be aligned.

I don't have a shop manual for these so I'm not sure how far the reverse lockout cable sticks up through the T handle before you tighten the set screw. It would have to be far enough to allow the T handle to rest down on the lip on the shift handle when in the forward gears or neutral. Maybe a close inspection of the cable will reveal where the screw was tightened originally. With this adjustment made, the spring re-inserted in the top of the lever and the knob screwed back on you should be good to go.

All of this is based on the assumption that all shifted well before they took it apart.

Tom

 

[Vetsvette2002]

You should be able to shift into any gear with the reverse lock-out lifted. Its sole function is to prevent shifting into reverse when you wasnt to shift to a forward gear.
It could be the nylon anti rattle bushinhs on the shadft that the lock-up or "T" handle slips over. The spring under the knob is strictly there to keep the "T" handle down and acting as a lock-out.

Don

 

[Ronald]

Thanks a lot for your help. Here's what I did: I dismantled the shifter as described by Tom. I found a pin with a clip on it. I removed that pin and repositioned the shifter to get it out of reverse. The "T" handle, previously known as “the pull up thing” dropped back into position. I then manipulated the linkage and found 3rd gear. That allowed me to get going and drive to my local garage, where it now rests for the professional touch.

Lesson learned: all 5 gears are useful, but reverse is not my favorite. This week 3rd is my favorite.

Thanks again

 

[JohnZ]

Photos below show the bottom end of the lockout rod in the normal (down) position, which prevents the shift lever from moving into the reverse gate, and the other shows the adjuster slot in the bottom of the shifter housing. To properly adjust the linkage, use a 1/8" thick by .646"-wide by 3" long tool to align all three lower levers with the slot in the housing (the neutral gate), and adjust the threaded swivels on the linkage rods to match the holes in the transmission shift levers in neutral. The adjustment procedure is shown in detail in the M20 section of the Assembly Manual.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks John. I knew I was missing something about the alignment preceedure.

Tom

 

[Kid_Again]

...these guys know what they're talking about but iw ould add that, IMHO, i wouldn't take the car back to the same shop that screwed up the shifter in the first place...

...i know that everyone makes mistakes but I get real pissed at mistakes that are made with the meter running and i'm the only fare in the cab

 

[Ronald]

I agree, but usually they are very good. I was very pleased with the new clutch. They still have it, so we'll see what happens when I get it back. My fingers are crossed.

 

[Kid_Again]

So, wot happened???

 

[Ronald]

So, wot happened???

She's back on the road and shifting great. I am very pleased. Cost me a few bucks more (they had to make a part). But at least I saved the tow bill

Ps: love that flogging of the dead horse

 

[65-to-00]

Ummmmmmmm, what part did they have to "make" .... this sounds like the reason for the old saw about asking for your old parts back????

:eyerole;squint:

 

[Ronald]

Ummmmmmmm, what part did they have to "make" .... this sounds like the reason for the old saw about asking for your old parts back????

:eyerole;squint:

I'm not sure what it was :confused (a shim?) They had it for about a week. They did tell me what they made, but it was greek to me. Went in one ear and out the other. I was just happy to get it out and on the road again.