Question: C3 fuse panel question

[jw15870]

Hi gang, working on a few wiring projects this morning that require a connection to a 12 volt ignition source. I've already used the IGN. tang on the fuse panel. Just above that tang, there is an ACC tang, and 2 BAT tangs. Are these tangs constant 12v sources or will they only supply power on ignition?


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[Evolution1980]

I apologize if this is insultingly obvious, but I would simply take out the fuse from the socket in question, and check it with a volt meter. Do you have voltage? There's your answer!

 

[jw15870]

Thanks for the advice. I'm embarrassed to say I don't have a volt meter and don't know how to use one. That said, the tangs I'm talking about don't hold fuses. They are single tangs that are aligned vertically in the center of the fuse block. In any case, a volt meter is probably the way to go, and I can figure out how to use it on line. Thanks-


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[Crimson Thunder]

Just test them with a simple test light with the ignition switch off and on. You can get one at any auto parts store for about five bucks.

 

[LLC5]

Hi gang, working on a few wiring projects this morning that require a connection to a 12 volt ignition source. I've already used the IGN. tang on the fuse panel. Just above that tang, there is an ACC tang, and 2 BAT tangs. Are these tangs constant 12v sources or will they only supply power on ignition?


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The accy tang is battery positive with the key in the "accy" AND "ign" switch position (they are two different positions in the ignition switch, but can be used seperately depending on the position of the switch). Bat should be battery positive all the time. Using a test light to confirm is a very good idea as fuse pins and fuse panels can go bad, or a previous owner could have altered the internals. Good luck with it.

 

[Evolution1980]

Well, there's a couple answers for you!
I suggest a voltmeter over a test light as you can get more use out of it. The function of each is the more or less the same though for what you want.
For a 'few buck more', get a digital voltmeter so you can actually see the numbers. It's much more beneficial to be able to see the actual amount of voltage going through something, as that can help you determine more than just simply a light giving off a bit of light.

The function of a volt meter is very simple (regardless if it's digital display or analog needle movement).
The volt meter may have a few different settings.

• If you have the option of measuring AC or DC voltage, select DC. Direct Current is what you use for checking batteries and other things in your car. Alternating Current is for checking electricity in your house and other things that get plugged into regular utility outlets.
• The next setting that you may have is to select the voltage range ("sensitivity"). Example: 1.5v, 3.3v, 9v, 12v, 110v, etc. Your car is a 12v system, so you'd select that if it's an option. If you don't have any voltage selections, it probably has an auto-sensing feature which is typical on the better, digital voltmeters.

Once you have the voltmeter set, check the location in your fuse panel. You should have two separate parts that represent bridge that the fuse links together.
Try the following test with the car off, ignition on, and engine on.
Attach one lead of the voltmeter to one side of the fuse link, and the other voltmeter lead to the other side.
Do you get a reading on your meter? If not, you have no voltage.

Note: Depending on the type of connection , you may need to use small "alligator clips" so you can more easily attach to the fuse link. If it's a blade fuse type connection, you can probably wedge your test leads in there or at least hold them in place. Don't force them in there though; you don't want to spread the clip or risk breaking the connection in the fuse panel. You only need a very little bit of connection between your test lead and the source in order to get a reading. A solid, secure connection is always better, but not 100% critical for simple testing of line voltage.

Good Luck!

 

[jw15870]

Hi gang, really appreciate the help. Thanks for taking the time to post


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[TimAT]

I'm with Evolution1980 here. A 12v testlight is great for all sorts of quick testing and some troubleshooting, but even a simple Volt-Ohm meter will do that and loads more. They're not hard to use, other than sometimes getting the leads to stay where you want them- but there's all sorts of accessories that will do that too.

 

[Mac]

I'm with Evolution1980 here. A 12v testlight is great for all sorts of quick testing and some troubleshooting, but even a simple Volt-Ohm meter will do that and loads more. They're not hard to use, other than sometimes getting the leads to stay where you want them- but there's all sorts of accessories that will do that too.

I would suggest both the multimeter and the test light. As much as the multimeter has various handy settings, a 12v test light serves more than a single purpose. It also gives an indication of how much current is available on the circuit. If the bulb is lit but dim, little current flow is available. If it's bright, ample is available. Handy when you're troubleshooting a wiring harness that has been modified by Bubba over the years to run aftermarket accessories. Just another tip, not necessarily relevant to your situations.

-Mac

 

[TimAT]

As MAC pointed out- both are handy and necessary tools.
I also have a powered testlight (continuity tester) and a probe that is powered. When you touch a contact with it, it will light up green for ground and red for power.