C4 aftermarket stereo wiring

[malc350]

After much consideration on the pros and cons of replacing the stock Delco Bose Gold I've finally decided to replace my stock stereo with an aftermarket CD/ radio - who needs tape anyway nowadays? The prime reason for keeping the stocker was its neat appearance in the 90 dash. However I've now had 3 C4s and 3 dead Bose, and after trawling round plenty of stereo repairers in my country (including specialists who said they can repair my stereo then changed their mind when thay tried to order parts) I've decided to take the easy(?) option.

I realise that I'll need to buy 4 new speakers and run new wires directly from the stereo to each speaker as the Bose amps are no good with other units.

My question is, which wires do I use as a safe power supply for the new unit - I'll need a "hot at all times" wire to keep my stereo clock and radio presets. I also want to make sure I don't interfere with the alarm system or anything else. It looks like my stock stereo is connected to 3 fused circuits. The car runs perfectly with no stereo in place! Also anyone know which wires go to the electric aerial?

Also anyone know if removing the stock radio unit is safe (hidden behind the glovebox somewhere on a 90).

P.S. The Delco Bose (and amps) is so heavy I reckon my car will run faster in the quarter without it!

 

[Corvette-Pilot]

I know you can buy wire harness adaptors so you don't have to cut any wires. With the adaptor it will tell you which wire is for what.

If you just plan to use the built in radio amp then make your life easier and use the factory speaker wires. I am looking to do mine over as well so I have not seen what the Blose amp connection looks like yet. I would think once you pull them out you can just connect a short wire from that end of the factory harness to the new speakers.

This should be an easy job. But if you go with a seperate amp then it gets a lot more involved.

 

[Corvette-Pilot]

Oopss,
I had not looked at them yet and I had no idea they used all these wires ??

You could still go to a stereo shop and ask if there is a harness adaptor. It should show what wires go where so you can pick the 2 you want to use. Plus you can look at the colors you have at each speaker, choose 2 of them and then find the same ones at the head unit end of the harness. Ohm them out to be sure they are connected.

We have ways

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

The Bose is broken up into 6 units, the in-dash part is just the control head, this is connected to the radio/preamp module which is either in the right side of the dash or under the Rt. storage compartment and the 4 Amp/speaker units, plus some power relays and the wiring harness. :confused

You are better off running new wires for everything and leaving the ¨factory harness intact¨. In the future somebody is going to want to restore your ride to ¨show room¨ condition. If you butcher the harness it could cost you serious bob in the future. :bash

The C4 is one of the easiest car to run wires through ever built. You have a big wiring channel along the Rt. side of the car from the dash to the back end. The only tricky part is getting a good ground.


If you want to drive down to Spain and enjoy some of the sun and 70º weather we are having I will help you with the installation. We could go to Gibraltar to buy the system, Gib is still duty free. You will not save enough to pay for your gas on the drive down but the savings would probably cover lunch.

BTW Spanish 98 gas is going for .87€/Lt.

 

[Fogbound]

I just couldn't stand by silently anymore... This is my first post to this board and this particular subject still puts shivers up and down my spine. I recently did exactly what you're talking about and what should normally be a half day job turned into approximately 4 days.

First and foremost, if you are planning on keeping your Bose speakers, get a wiring harness adapter from Crutchfield. The staff are very helpful and actually know what they are talking about! If you are planning on replacing your speakers be prepared to do a lot of fabrication. The Bose speakers are not standard size... Once again, the staff from Crutchfield will help size replacement speakers for your vehicle. The rears are not too bad, you will be able to mount them in the original holes but they will go in fairly loosely so be careful in redrilling the mounting holes.

Now the fun part! The front speakers are mounted in the door sill towards the front of the car. You will need to remove and gut the enclosure of all electronics. Once you have an empty enclosure, you'll see that replacement speakers will not fit flat without building up the face of the enclosure. After looking at several options, I opted to build the face up with body putty. This was a gradual process with a lot of trial and error. To make a long story longer, :eyerole I probably built up in areas about an inch and had to taper down to nothing. This was all accomplished with a combination of hole saw, belt sander and a whole lot of cussing. After trial mounting the new speakers in the enclosures, I repainted with flat black (after removing the speakers of course) then reinstalled the enclosures.

I'm not sure about your year, but on the '93 power remains to the sound system and power windows for ~5 minutes or until the door is opened. To keep this option, you'll need to tap into the proper wire that runs the length of the door sill plate back to the amp that resides under the parcel tray on the passenger's side. While I was back there, I also removed the amp and placed it along with the other speaker components that I've accumulated over the years.

Be prepared to have to modify the console innards to accomodate your new head unit. I put in a Panasonic double din unit that, after all is said and done, looks like it was designed as a factory replacement unit.

I apologize for the extra long post, and I'm sure that I've forgotten some details, but I think that I've covered the major areas.

Good luck!!!

 

[Corvette-Pilot]

Originally posted by Fogbound I'm not sure about your year, but on the '93 power remains to the sound system and power windows for ~5 minutes or until the door is opened. To keep this option, you'll need to tap into the proper wire that runs the length of the door sill plate back to the amp that resides under the parcel tray on the passenger's side. While I was back there, I also removed the amp and placed it along with the other speaker components that I've accumulated over the years. Good luck!!! [/B]

This is a VERY good point that I never would have thought about?
My 94 has that option and it messed with my head the first couple of times.
I thought the radio was stuck on.

 

[malc350]

Stereo replacement on C4

Thanks guys, I think my best option is probably to keep all original wiring in place and just run extra wires from the new head unit to new speakers (if I can get the right size to replace the stock speakers).

One thing that worries me about the adapters people have mentioned is that I thought the Bose speakers were incompatible with other stereos (different ohms?)

Might have to take Spanishvettes offer up and drive down to Spain - shouldn't take long in the Callaway!

Regards, Malc

 

[rkreigh]

fyi, Dr. Don reconditions the factory bose stuff for 150.

I've had him do 2 head units and they work perfectly.

rewiring the car is better than reusing the factory wires which are really too small for good sound as they carry the "un amped" signal on the factory bose.

fabbing the enclosures and rewiring the car is time consuming, but the aftermarket stereo gear sounds much better than the bost.

I have a zr1 and the LT5 provides most of the audio entertainment so the factory bose is enough for me for now.

cya

 

[dan87vette]

After pulling out my Bose head unit twice for repair, I decided to replace everything. I spent a ton on Pioneer head, new speakers front and rear, the car stereo shop went through hell getting everything mounted/adapted, finally got everything working well.

I loved it for awhile, but after a few months I hated it. It just looked funky in the dash. Very un-Vette like. I wanted my Delco Bose back. I spent a whole day ripping out the new stuff, repairing/figuring out what the BUTCHERS at the car sound place had done to my wiring. Finally got it all back together the way it was, sold the new stuff on eBay for a 250 loss, and now the light is burned out on my Eject button so I guess I'll be pulling it out again soon, but that's ok.

Not the greatest sound, but I like it and also I am hooked on Books on Tape. How does that saying go? Oh yeah: No highs, no lows, must be a Bose!

 

[Jeffvette]

Leave the tuner box in the kick panel area. It's a pain in the butt to remove.

I'll have to go back through and look at my wiring to se how I did mine, but it's simple and straight forward. I did my whole car in less than a day. If it takes longer there are issues with the installer.

I did component speakers all around, a amp, head unit and a full din EQ. Brain for the EQ and amp are mounted in the passenger side cubby hole. I re-used the stock bose pods in the rear. I custom made the front plates and mounted 6.5 speakers.

Do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the passenger seat at minimum and remove both if you want to be able to move around in the car while doing this.

Listen to Spanishvetts.